I own a 1997 GMC Suburban 1500/4wd with 174,000 miles on it. I love the truck, but don't like the brake system. What I have experienced is weak brakes on the rear. I have changed the rear shoes, tried to adjust them, tried bleeding, and even changed the master cyl. Nothing has made a difference in the braking power. Also, I have had to change the front pads and rotors, brake pads every 20 K miles, due to excessive wear. The fronts are working much harder than they should have to. Anyone else have this issue and/or have a suggestion for a fix?
My 97 K1500 has 157,000 miles now, but has had repairs in every category. Alternator, battery, starter, auto trans (under warranty), intake manifold gasket (plastic manifold on a 5.7 liter engine... go figure) water pump, fuel pump 4 times, exhaust manifold gasket, CV joint, rear axle seal, needs two oxygen sensors, 4WD switch doesn't light up, pitman arm, some no starts, and crank position sensor. Most of these things happened as soon as the warranty expired. I wonder if the Chevy version is just as bad?
I have a electrical problem with my 1999 Surburban. When I turn on the left turn signal the radio display blink with it. Also when I turn on the headlights the the left turn signal and cruise control is inoperative. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix these problems. Contact John at Jollygreenusa@hotmail.com I would appreciate any suggestions.
1998 GM Suburban, 175000 miles I've owned it for 110000 of those miles. Loved the thing. Last year I had a starting problem that when I turned the key to start, it simply clicked and then a continuous clicking sound came from under the dash. No lights, no dome nothing. It turned out to be the key had worn out enough that the security system shut it down when it didn't detect the proper key. Had a couple new ones made, not a lick of trouble sense until now. Seems the problem is back. Tried the new key that I haven't used yet still nothing. I don't use the security wonder if it could be disconnected. One other funny thing is I could go out there right now and it might start! Thanks for any comments.
I've had to replace the starter on my 97 Suburban 4 times. Does anyone know why this keeps on happening?
I have a 99 suburban with 70k miles. Yesterday morning I noticed the dome lights on and I could not get them to turn off unless I started the truck. As soon as I turn the truck off the interior lights come on and stay on. Has anyone found the reason for this.
I own a 1996 GMC K1500 Suburban. The body has 250,000 plus miles on it and looks fine. All the bushings on the front end and all the body mounts are perfect. I'm not sure of the mileage on the engine. I'm the 3rd owner and the dealer I bought it from said the guy that sold it to them had a newer motor put in. It runs perfect though. The dealer had the trans rebuilt while the truck was in their possession. So I guess I got lucky there. I love the truck. The only problems I have with it doesn't even have anything to do with gm. Someone had the dash off before and didn't tighten it up very well. So it squeaks like hell. And they messed up the area where the defrost air comes out of the dash. Its cracked and broken all around the screws. And my key won't turn any of the locks. It just twists and bends the key. Also the manual locks on the inside are extremely hard to push down. It feels like its all bound up in there or something. AND the rear heat way in the back by the barn doors is clogged and blows cold air. But you can't tell unless your back there and are right on the vent. And that's about it. No dome light problems like the guys with the 1999s. All the electrical issues with mine have to do with heater control bulbs and blower knobs. But I just have to change those.
Electrical problems with lights is the multifunction switch.
I am having mine replaced and I hope it fixes my other problems such as low power in cabin and engine stall when relays click. But I know it will fix the hazard light and display light problems.
Our 1997 GMC Suburban also had the problem with the battery being dead every few days. No interior light problems of any sort. Problem traced to the light under the hood. It is disconnected now and the problem has stopped.
I have a 1997 K1500 4wd: the other day the truck stalled a few 100 feet from my house and will not start up. I have replaced a few sensors, plug wires, cap and rotor and still nothing.
It cranks but it won't catch a spark. My buddy is a mechanic and he hooked a computer up to it and it reads no faults. We are both baffled; has anyone else had this problem?
I bought a 99 GMC Suburban used, really good price for what I got. I've had it for 10 years and runs like a champ. Initially, it would have electrical problems, draining on its own and not starting. It also would sometimes just die while being driven. Luckily, I bought it for short distances in the neighborhood where there wasn't much traffic. Took it to the mechanic several times and they couldn't fix the problem. Turned out that the alternator was dying, self grounding in the process, draining the battery, etc. When it finally gave up, then another mechanic diagnosed it, replaced it, and it's been a champ ever since.
One note, and I don't know if it's just this car. After I bought the car and brought it home, I noticed that one of the bolts IN the car that held the 2nd row seat down was rusted completely. I thought that perhaps the previous owner had gotten the car under water, not sure. The body frame underneath was also heavily rusted, but it's thick enough that I don't need to worry about it. However, I've discovered other components inside the car since that are also, and oddly, rusted. Perhaps the body insulation fails causing a lot of the electrical problems in these pages? Along these lines, I just pulled off the fuse relay box cover trying to diagnose a dead rear turn signal and realized how flimsy the box was, how susceptible the fuses were to moisture, and how the fuse seating was not even properly fitted that one of the fuses couldn't sit properly where it should be, perhaps causing some of the other failures here noted. It is possible that moisture can get in to this area, and short the fuses to each other through heavy moisture, causing the cross-flashing/cross-shorting between relay lights of different components (signal, etc.) Maybe a simple moisture-insulating cover over this entire box might help? It would have to be resistant to fire, heat, and melting, however. Or just rubber insulation on the cover's edges AWAY from the fuses could work.