26th Feb 2007, 10:53
My wife owns a Santa Fe and the dealer informed me that it is acceptable for a car to use 1 quart of oil per one thousand miles. To me this is a bull. I will be contacting the North American Headquarters regarding this because I doubt it is in the owners manual.
13th Jul 2007, 12:29
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent that I picked up for $300.00 because the transmission was gone at 140,000 km (about 90,000 miles).
The gentleman who owned the car previously had destroyed the transmission by getting stuck in a snowbank, and shifting rapidly between reverse and drive with the pedal to the floor. The car would only move in reverse, making for a very interesting trek across Barrie at 1 am in reverse through downtown bartime traffic. Somehow I managed not to get pulled over.
After replacing the transmission (bought a scrapyard unit with 80,000km for $700 and dropped it in), I certified the car at work (I work at a transmission shop pulling transmissions in and out for the builder), putting in new ball joints and tie rod ends (one was just about to break; every time I went around a right hand corner I could feel the front drivers side wheel tuck way in and the car would jump to the right; kinda scary), new front pads and rotors, a new flexpipe, new shoes and a new wheel cylinder in the back, and a couple bulbs, plus 2 front tires the car was finally safetied.
The previous owner was a 19 year old college student who absolutely abused the car and did not follow the maintenance schedule whatsoever. The oil hadn't been changed for almost 20,000km; transmission service had never been performed, and the front tires had been destroyed from taking corners too quickly.
All in all, over this car's first 140,000km in hell, it survived pretty well. It runs excellent and is great on gas (even though its slow as hell). Everything that broke was broken because the car was abused, except the flexpipe, which cracked when I unbolted the last transmission mount came off and the engine dropped slightly on its one remaining mount.
The car still does have some issues; The check engine light is on because of a transmission fault code. The scrapyard tranny did not have pulse generators in it, so I got a set from work off of who knows what. After installing them the problem stayed. I put the scanner on the car and the code was "undocumented transmission fault." I had a feeling it was a pulse generator code, so I ran an input/output speed sensor test, involving driving the car with the scanner connected, and watching the pulse generator readings on the scanner. The output speed sensor is not reading anything, but the input works fine. These are not the correct pulse generators for the car (I found them in a big box of wiring harnesses, and they looked close, so I figured I'd try 'em), so its understandable that the transmission computer is having a fit. I have the proper sensors now, but haven't had time to install them.
Also, there are several common reasons that the check engine lights in these cars come on. Most likely is the throttle position sensor, which there is actually a TSB out for. The solution is cheap on parts, and can be repaired in your driveway in under 10 minutes, even if you don't know what you're doing. Just replace that sensor. Faulty tps can cause rich or lean conditions, which may actually bring up an oxygen sensor code rather than a tps code. The other major reason that this light comes on is because of the pulse generator wires shoring out.
Also, transmissions that stick in third gear, do not shift into overdrive, or do not shift into first gear are usually pulse generator issues. The pulse generator wiring is very prone to shorting out on these cars, so make sure that the wires going to and from the blue 4-wire connector that plugs in the pulse generator are good. Use a multimeter and check for continuity. If you don't have continuity, then electrical signals can't travel to and from the pulse generators, explaining the check angine light and also explaining why the transmission goes into "limp" mode (only 2nd and third gear will work, and the only way to engage second is to manually shift into it.) Also, a transmission that is in limp mode raises line pressure to force the transmission to go into gear so you can drive it, so shifts are very hard, especially going from drive to reverse.
I have driven my Accent about 7000km since I got it, and it has served me well so far. I'm fairly happy with it, and pretty impresses at how well it held up after almost 100,000 miles of little to no maintenance and aggressive driving.
I hope some of the information I've provided will help someone.
15th Jul 2007, 16:56
I installed the new pulse generators.
Don't let the Hyundai dealer try and talk you into them.
The ones I got for $45 from Part Source work fine.
The car works perfectly now, the transmission works exactly how it should.
12th Aug 2007, 17:19
I have a 2000 Accent; it's cheap with decent gas mileage. So far I've replaced the windshield wiper assembly, the pivot point rusted solid, and I lost the AC because the pulley on the bottom of the engine rusted solid. The previous owner had the vehicle serviced at the dealer; I do my own service mostly.
A repeat problem I have is water shorting out the ignition wires. Every time I drive through a rain storm, I cringe because if it's a bad enough storm, water collects in the recessed spot for the 4th spark plug (near the transmission), shorts it out, then I end up driving on 3 cylinders. I guess this is what I should expect for a car I paid $1500 for.
6th Dec 2007, 12:27
I have a 2000 Accent, we bought it new for our son. He has moved on, and now has a Jeep, so we got the Accent back. It is great on gas, about 33 MPG, but last year, just about Thanksgiving, the automatic transmission went out (no reverse). I called a local shop and was told they could fix it for about $1000 so I took it in. Well $2200 later it still doesn't shift right. I have taken it back several times, and as you can imagine, each time they find something else wrong. The last time the guy did tell me the problem was in the wiring. Now after reading some of the comments, I do believe him.
So far after having the transmission rebuilt, I have had to replace the axes, struts, radiator, new tune up (plugs/wires and the works) both O2 sensors. Oh did I also mention the new brakes and tires.
Talk about a money pit. This is it.
11th Dec 2007, 20:02
I bought a 2000 Accent 3 years ago (used). It had 78000 km. The day after I drove away the engine light came on. My code reader said it was the MAP sensor or mass air flow sensor. I don't know how they get MAP out of that. The used car dealer paid the $500 for the part and the labour.
When the weather turned cold about a month later the wipers didn't want to move. The mechanism needed replacing $200. A common problem according to the dealer. So was the MAP sensor. Quite honest people.
I had to have one synchro and third gear changed on the 5 speed transmission at about 136,000 km. My fault for shifting without the clutch. The transmission shop recommended that the clutch be changed while everything was apart for $300. Total bill $1100, again mostly my fault.
I had to change a hinge on the hood. I did it myself.
The latest is $400 to change the valve cover gasket, oil pan, gasket and the oil. Many rusted bolts were extracted using a torch. Time is money at the dealer.
I had an evaporative system engine code once. I changed the gas cap as this was cheap to try. For $80 the dealer found a cracked evaporative system hose and cut the bad piece off. Problem never came back.
The body is in good shape so I put an electronic anti corrosion circuit on it. Its been a year now and I still have no holes and the paint still looks good.
All in all I can't complain. I paid $6000 and now have 190,000 km. I didn't add in tune ups and maintenance since all vehicles need that.
In the summer I get up to 50.5 MPG (Canadian gal.) on the highway. I have never measured less than 45 MPG with this car. Not bad for a four wheeled motorcycle (1500cc). It has no power steering and it's a 5 speed manual transmission, both help.
My engine light is on. The reader says O2 sensor. After reading the above comments there are 2 sensors and even more to check.
Would I buy another one? Probably not. After driving for about 1 hour and a half I have to get out and walk around. My right leg goes dead and my butt is sore. The seats are the pits and there is no cruise control. My old Ford tempo had excellent seats. I could sit in those for 6 or 7 hours no problem and no cruise either.
The rear suspension on this Accent has creaked from the day I bought it. All I can say is drive it till it drops. I need to replace my '96 Ford Windstar van first it has 280,000 km. That's a topic for another day.
I loved the story about bringing the car home in reverse. I just about fell off my chair.