1st Six Months:
• The very first week I owned the car the paint on a foot-long section of passenger side door molding literally fell off — clean, like it had never had any paint applied to it in the first place. The dealer tried to blame it on something I may have hit, but fortunately for me they repaired it at no charge because I first noticed the missing paint when picking my car up from the service department because of yet another problem:
• The vehicle had hard water spots all over it when I bought it that would not come off. I had the firsthand opportunity to observe that these water deposits were from the sloppy car washing practices on the dealer lot, in which a small hand towel was used to dry the entire car — which for all intents and purposes amounted to letting their inventory air dry. Consequently, the dealer agreed to give it an "acid wash", at which time they also went over the glass portions with ultra-fine steel wool to remove the mineral deposits. Eventually they removed the water spots, although it took more than one trip to the dealer to accomplish as much.
• Replaced plastic side panel on driver's side of dash due to discoloration under warranty.
• Replaced strut that was groaning and creaking. I believe this became the subject of a TSB. This too was covered under warranty.
• Replaced burned out dash clock. This was covered by warranty. (Apparenty a common problem.)
• Dealer repaired a sticky gas tank door/release.
1st Three Years:
• Performed recall repair on position of brake lines under warranty.
• Inspected exhaust manifold for cracks as a result of an apparent silent recall and/or TSB. No cracks found. Mileage less than 25K, however.
• Measured valve clearances to troubleshoot cold engine/cold weather acceleration rattle that could not be resolved with 10-40 weight oil or higher octane gas. One dealer said there was no problem. A year or two later a second dealer said they were "out of spec" but the factory rep who arrived the next day said they were within specifications.
• Dealer replaced motor mount under warranty at Hyundai factory rep's suggestion. It didn't resolve cold engine acceleration rattle.
• Dealer replaced thrust bearing washer, also under warranty, and at factory rep's suggestion. That didn't resolve cold engine acceleration rattle, either.
• Reprogrammed AT transmission per TSB to resolve shift flare. Covered by warranty.
• Replaced stripped oil plug and pan assembly per TSB, also under warranty. (Note: Dealer mechanic could not reattach oil plug after an oil change due to stripped threads. Dealer tried to blame this problem on an independent mechanic I had used in the past to change my oil once or twice, and though it was their service technician who was unable to reattach the oil pan plug they were going to charge me nearly $1,000 to replace the pan/pug assembly. Fortunately, it occurred to me to check the TSBs for my car, at which point I was able to offer proof that it was a "known issue" for which warranty service applied.)
Years 4-7:
• Replaced rear brakes at ~20K.
• Performed maintenance including coolant drain and refill, transmission, power steering and brake fluid flush. (FYI: Those who are complaining that their brake, cooling system components or transmission have failed need to indicate whether they have performed routine maintenance. After all, the problems that characterize Lemons are far different than the problems caused by failing to follow the maintenance schedule.)
• Replaced front brakes at ~32K.
• Replaced a burned out headlight under warranty.
• Replaced drive belts and timing belts per maintenance schedule at 32K due to age of car (7 yrs).
• Replaced spark plugs. One apparently showed moderate evidence of carbon fouling, but the dealer did not determine whether it might indicate a sticky valve or some other condition. However, they did perform a carbon service on the engine under warranty. My acceleration improved — and I'm sold on the value of this service — but the rattle did not disappear.*
• Replaced thermostat and gasket after it stuck open causing the car to overheat in Spring 2008. Fortunately, the car was pulled off the road immediately and no other damage was done. From what I have read, thermostat failure is an incredibly common problem and I was lucky not to blow a head gasket or essentially "total" my car's engine.
2009 UPDATE:
•In late 2008 I received notice of a silent safety recall on Hyundai Elantra airbag connections below the driver and passenger seats, which can easily be knocked loose thereby disabling the airbags. This was one of many problems I experienced several years before the recall notices went out. I would have included my airbag warning light issue in the original posting of this review, but frankly there have been so many problems that for all my efforts to fully document them I have lost track of a few.
• The plastic paneling on the back of my driver's seat has what resembles bleached-out splatter marks on the left side. Each mark is about the size of a dime. None of these stains appeared to have been there originally. Or had they? I suspect they may have been there all along for two reasons: 1) Several interior panels were replaced within the first few weeks of ownership for this exact same type of discoloration (as described above); 2) I almost never carry passengers, and when I do they are always adults with no other liquids on their persons other than bottled water. Moreover, passenger windows are never left down at any time, so that rules out anything entering the car from the exterior. Furthermore, there has never been an incident where anything was spilled on the seat or anywhere else. Additionally, none of the fabric or carpeting in the area, or anywhere else for that matter, has been similarly stained as would be expected if a liquid bleaching agent had spilled. I suspect that the plastic in the driver's seat contained impurities and/or was coated with some sort of matching polish, paint or dye to obscure the "evidence" and with time it has resurfaced.
• Over the past 7+ years I frequently find myself having to use Hyundai touch-up paint on the rear bumper. This problem started within the first year or two of ownership. As is also the case for many other Elantra owners, the paint chips off along the crease line that runs the length of the rear bumper to reveal the black undercoating. I have seen many Hyundais with chips in the same place and there are many complaints to the same effect on the Internet and elsewhere on carsurvey.org. Sadly, I continue to notice the chipped areas even after applying the touch-up paint because none of the self-applied paint rises to the same level as the factory applied paint job (not to mention that it lacks a matching clear coat). It's getting to the point where the bumper needs to be repainted.
• With respect to the body of the car, I have also collected a number of unlikely dents. I say "unlikely" because they are NOT located on body panels where shopping carts or other drivers might be expected to strike the sheet metal. Rather, they appear on what should be more impact-resistant areas where the metal is very dense, such as the metal strip that runs above the rear passenger door or in the heaviest portion of the hood above the grill. What is odd is that each of these dents are uniform — perfectly round indentations a bit smaller than a golf ball with absolutely no corresponding scratches or dings to the paint. Never have I heard or witnessed anything hit those areas. Each are too large to be the result of pebbles kicked up by normal driving and seemingly appear on the car spontaneously, as if originating from the inside out.
On the plus side, I have never seen a check engine light. Likewise, no problem with O2, MAF or other sensors, shimmies or many of the other issues that are more commonly reported on this make/model.
On the negative side, I've had a lot of work done to this car, and yet there are two mystery problems that are never resolved:
•* On cold days with a cold engine, a rattle is emitted from under the plastic engine housing just as soon as I press the accelerator. It sounds like tiny fragments of gravel tumbling or the mechanical equivalent of a frog-in-the-throat (as if the car needs to spit something out, which of course it never does). This goes on from 5-15 minutes until the engine is warm. It is most pronounced in the winter months, and showed up before the car even underwent its first oil change. During the summer months, it is far less noticeable except very early in the morning or late at night providing that the engine and the weather is cool or damp. It is virtually inaudible at idle, but with increasing RPMs the noise keeps pace. At about 35MPH it is at the loudest, but after 40MPH engine noise seemingly drowns it out.
• I have the all-wheel disc ABS brakes, and sometimes, whether stopped at a light or after having pulled into the driveway, I hear a thumping sound that seems to come from the rear wheel area just slightly toward the passenger side. Hitting the brake pedal harder while already stopped seems to alter things just enough to make it stop THUMP, THUMP, THUMP, THUMPing. However, it can also happen after I pull up the parking brake and have the vehicle in Park. Right before I turn off the ignition I hear the THUMP, THUMP, THUMP. This seems to be provoked during the first 20 minutes or so of driving but doesn't go on consistently, or much beyond that point that I recall. It sounds, ironically, like someone trapped in the trunk trying to get out. I asked the dealer to check the muffler and exhaust, but they claim there is no problem (not sure if they did anything to really test it, aside from a visual inspection, however). Meanwhile, my rear brakes had to be replaced around 20K, which one wouldn't expect the rear brakes to go before the front. But apparently, this is a Hyundai characteristic (at least on the Elantras). I've heard other complaints to the same effect. Anyhow, I reported the problem and hoped that they would find the culprit during the brake job. They did not. Changing the brakes had no effect. Finally I took the car for a spin with a tech, and he claimed that it might have something to do with a noisy fuel pump, and to watch for any correlation between how full my gas tank is, and when I hear the thumping/thudding sound. So far, I haven't noticed a connection. The mystery remains unsolved.
The Hyundai Elantra has a nice ride, with decent pickup compared to the other cars I tested at the time I bought it. At the time, Edmunds even bumped a low end BMW and made the Hyundai Elantra a top recommendation. Aside from the buying advice that was out at the time, all of which was favorable to the Elantra, in summer of 2001, my choices in the general price range were:
Volkswagen Jetta (Too expensive, eats brakes, service horror stories, 115HP with automatic transmission has NO passing or hill climbing power).
Honda Civic (A bit pricey for the features; horribly uncomfortable seats for a person with a bad low back. A very generic dime-a-dozen appearance.)
Toyota Echo (Cheap looking, funky dashboard layout, cramped feeling. Unfortunately, there was no Corolla out in 2001, otherwise I would have bought a Corolla and probably never would have found myself on a Hyundai car lot).
Ford Focus: (Recall. Recall. Recall. The typical Fix Or Repair Daily.)
I settled for the Elantra because of its smooth ride, easy handling, relatively spacious cabin, and the inclusion of features found on higher priced cars — power windows, locks, A/C — not to mention 8-way adjustable seats with lumbar support. I also obtained traction control, and antilock brakes for under $15,000, which at the time nobody else could beat.
Looking back, this car has had way too many problems. It is to the point where I have lost track of how many early mornings I have driven around with technicians and even factory reps. Just the same, the car has never had a breakdown, that is until the thermostat broke. On the other hand, I had read YEARS ago that thermostats tend to break down and should be replaced every 2-3 years on ANY car. So I figure it was my own fault for not seeing to it that this very cheap part was inspected or replaced. (Strangely, few manufacturers recommend this service, which is odd because thermostat failure is inevitable on just about any car if you own it long enough, whereas the results of overheating can be thousands of dollars worth of damage.)
In the beginning, none of my friends wanted to see my new car because they were all convinced that Hyundai was an unreliable make and that I had made a mistake. So I'm determined now to own this car long enough to run it into an advanced age just to see if the valves are bad, or if I can, by continuing to do the maintenance, discover that it will prove the naysayers wrong. If, on the other hand, my car's compression takes a nosedive or I end up needing new valves or a rebuild of the engine around 80K, you can be sure I won't let the dealer snooker me into paying for those repairs. I'll point to my service history and say that the problems started before the first oil change, that it appears they were trying to delay and obfuscate me out of a warranty repair due to the severity of the defect, and demand that they make good on it — that, or see me in court. I hope it won't come to that. But at this point, I'm crossing my fingers, checking off the maintenance list, and hoping for the best.
Would I buy a Hyundai again? That all depends. I would NEVER recommend that someone buy a used Hyundai unless they have all available service history, and only if they purchase an extended warranty. As for a new Hyundai, I would say that if Hyundai cuts their factory warranty, which offers a generous 60K/10-year powertrain coverage, I would say steer clear. Without the factory warranty, this car would have cost me thousands of dollars in repairs within three years. Moreover, the two unresolved problems for which I repeatedly sought dealer assistance would have most likely qualified it for Lemon Law status. But as for the way I've been treated by the dealer? Well, that too is par for the course. The Internet is filled with dealer horror stories. It has no bearing on the make/model. It just seems to go with the territory.
I'm surprised to read all these problems. I purchased a 2001 new and I now have over 110,000 miles and I consider it the most reliable of the many cars I have owned. In fact, I just put on the second set of tires (besides the original) and The only surprise was loose outer tie rod ends that need to be replaced (not very expensive). I also recently replaced the original front brakes and I'm still running the original rear breaks. I drive 300 miles rt each week rain or snow in the Midwest. I've replaced the timing belt and done one tuneup as recommended. My oil consumption between oil changes is less than 1 qt. Besides that there were a few minor items done under warranty; vanity mirror, clock, headlights & 2 door gasket. All I have to deal with now is the stripped out oil pan before my next oil change.
Good luck to you!
I too have owned a 2001 Elantra since new. It's been a great car for me and I really haven't had all the servicing required by the manual. I currently have about 205,000 miles on it and it has never failed to start and never let me sit anywhere. I had the original timing belt replaced at 168,000 miles! Mostly brakes, tires and oil for me. Never saw a check engine light until 198,000 miles.(for a minor vacuum leak) If I could buy another brand new 2001 Elantra today I probably would. Cheap to own and a joy to drive.
I am the person who wrote the review at the top of this page and have to add something else to my list of ills, all on a car that has very, very low miles:
My driver's side lock actuator wore out. When I click the remote all the locks close except for the driver's side, so the alarm doesn't engage. I have to lock it with a key and then set the alarm. A few years ago I complained that the locks were too stiff — feeling like I had to pry them open with my fingernails before the power assist would engage. The dealer was supposed to lube them, but I doubt they did. If they had, I suspect that the actuator wouldn't have worn out with such light use on the vehicle. Apparently, this part is a special order part and I have been told by the dealer that if I order it and it's not the right part I can't return it. Last time I checked, a lot of parts were special order. But this is the first time I've ever been told I can't return an unused part. (Maybe they did this intentionally because I had volunteered that I wanted to buy it so that a friend could install it.)
To diagnose the problem the dealer was going to charge $96 and that didn't include the replacement actuator, which they quoted at $150. I took it to an independent shop where they diagnosed the problem for free and will fix it for less than $200.
It's no wonder my local Hyundai dealer has changed hands so many times. They run off all their customers with their high prices and poor attitudes. Take this, for example: A few years ago I left my car for the zillionth time, shortly after the right motor mount was replaced. I did so because I began to hear a vibration noise near the right side of the engine where the AC system is located. When I turned off the AC the noise would go away. For whatever reason, I only heard the buzzing noise when the car was in reverse. Later, I began to hear it when driving away from a stop light — but it typically faded in seconds.
I dropped the car off for this problem several years back, but as usual, after having my car for 24 hours, the service department claimed they didn't hear anything. Low and behold, on the way out I began hearing the noise before I even hit the street. I stopped and pulled into a parking spot and called out the service adviser. He popped the hood and took a listen. But while he was unable to hear anything because I was only idling, he stated that it was the AC clutch — just a normal part of the car getting older. He advised me not to worry about it unless it got worse. I took his advice. To pursue the issue would have meant I would have had to return to the dealer again and again, and since I had already done so at least 20 times for the other problems, that would have meant yet another go around of being without my car a couple days each month. (As it were, I had been in enough to qualify in the first two years for Lemon Law.)
Frustrated by everything you may have read in the original review, I decided to keep an ear on the situation and go back only if it became worse (in other words, when the noise became consistent enough that a 2-year-old could duplicate it). It never did become any more obnoxious — that is, until recently. Lately, I'm hearing it again mostly when I back up the car and pull out of the driveway. I no longer hear it moving forward, but I almost always hear it backing up. Now this is somewhat strange because I have always babied the AC system ever since I discovered while test driving in the summer months that these cars are notorious for squealing if you start the engine with the AC in the on position. Right off the bat, I got into the habit of starting my engine, turning on my AC next, and then backing out of the driveway. Now I'm doing all that but with the added step of not engaging the AC until I put the car in drive (it's an automatic).
Anyhow, while there for the lock actuator, I recently asked the dealer again if there's anything I ought to be concerned about if this noise continues to present itself. Yet while the A/C system seems to be working flawlessly despite the transient vibration noise, the service adviser stated that it would not be covered under warranty because driving it this long after the fact would be owner "negligence". What? I never actually HAD a verifiable diagnosis of the buzzing noise to begin with, only the speculation of someone who hadn't heard it but *thought* that the A/C clutch might be to blame.
In closing, I have an update on the acceleration rattle (another noise entirely). Turns out it's one problem that has finally been solved, but not to Hyundai's credit. You see, I had scoured the Internet back in the early days of ownership to determine the cause of the cold engine rattle and what came up on Edmunds. com was an Elantra owner who said his German mechanic attributed the cold-engine acceleration rattle to the timing belt tensioner. Now I reported ALL of this to the dealership service advisers, the customer relations manager, the owner, Hyundai USA and anyone who would listen — and I continued repeating the possibility for the first four years of ownership. But like those a-hole doctors who don't like patients to take a proactive role in their own health, they refused to listen to the "know-nothing" customer.
The factory rep came out more than once to troubleshoot the problem. This involved several checks of the valve clearances, replacing the right motor mount, the thrust-bearing washer and a carbon cleaning. All were expensive in-warranty efforts, but ultimately fruitless. Yet the one thing the dealer and the Hyundai factory rep. refused to do was listen to my simple request to check the timing belt and tensioner. So here I am, just this past summer, thinking that it might be time to change my timing belt since the car is now 7 years old. The miles are waaaay too low for this, but since nobody would agree under warranty to go in and check these parts — too much labor they said for a "hunt & peck mission" — I decided to do the job early even though I had been told the belts still had low wear. To my amazement, the cold engine/cold weather 10-15 minutes of rocks-in-a-tin-can rattle upon acceleration is GONE. Looks like the German mechanic had it right back in 2001. But hey, what could I possibly know? I'm just somebody with a college degree who grew up listening to all the banter associated with a father who owned an auto shop (sic!). The Einsteins at Hyundai know better!
My friends and family raised their eyebrows when they learned that I had bought a Hyundai Elantra in 2001. I argued that the Hyundai had made great strides since the days of the Hyundai Excel, offered the most features for the money, had been reviewed highly by Edmunds.com — not to mention every other automotive source that reviewed it (I did my homework) — and offered the best warranty in the business. Come full circle, I would have to admit my friends and family were right. No more Hyundais for me. If Toyota had had a Corolla out in 2001, I would have never lived this nightmare. Lesson learned: Ignore the automotive journalists and listen to friends & family!
I have an '01 Elantra which currently has 145,000 miles on it. I love my car and have not had many issues with it since I've had it. It has never given me HUGE problems until recently when I started to have a rattle under the hood and poor acceleration. The rattle only happens when it's really cold out and a belt squeeks when it's damp or wet out. I can't accelerate past 25 mph unless I'm on a decline to pick up speed. Traveling up a hill is a real pain because I then lose acceleration, traveling MAYBE 20 mph until I reach the peak of the hill. My mechanic told me I just needed a tune-up and filter change. After the tune-up and filter change, the acceleration still remained but no check engine light. So, I did a little research of my own and found out that the O2 sensor could be going bad. In this case, I have two O2 sensors. Well, shortly after finding this information, my check engine light came on and was diagnosed as the 1st O2 sensor being bad. So, I had that replaced and the check engine light was cleared. To my surprise, that STILL did not fix the acceleration issue. I can't tell the difference at all. So, my car is now BACK at the mechanic to do more diagnostics. My mechanic is thinking it may be a fuel pump problem, but I'm thinking I should have had the second O2 sensor replaced as well.
I'm curious to know if the person who originally posted this issue ever got the cold weather/ cold engine rattle repaired, and if anyone has had similar acceleration issues. If so, were there expensive resolutions to this? I'm trying to stay positive on but I'm worried I'm going to keep putting money into the car with no resolutions or that the problem is a transmission or expensive engine problem. Any ideas, recommendations or experiences would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I got a 2002 Elantra GT... Bought it used in 2004...
It had some warranty left... but I NEVER took it to a dealership and never will...
I like my little garage... They don't cost much, they don't BS me and they do the work..
Car has not cost me much and NEVER left me stranded.
Now the car has a lot of little problems...
But still runs safe...
Most of it is suspension... but I live in Montreal and I used low profile tires for 2 years...
I have 160 000km, the engine is running flawlessly.
Power windows are no longer all that powerful but work.
The 2002 Elantra is what the 1992-95 Civic should have become. :P.
I keep having to replace headlights with this car? What's the problem???
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra.
Two weeks after driving the car off the lot brand new, I noticed the paint was chipping and peeling from the hood and roof. Took it back in for a re-paint.
We constantly are replacing headlights.
The dashboard clock has stopped working.
The brake lights are on all the time, no one can figure out why.
Exhaust manifold needed replaced during last years inspection, paid for it, then later found out there was bulletin for this exact problem, so we had to fight to get the cost for repairs back.
This morning we just found out that the O2 sensor has gone bad.
I despise my Hyundai.
To the individual who posted on 2nd Jan 2009, 10:25:
I can't speak with reference to the O2 sensors, but what you are describing sounds like it may have something to do with faulty injectors and/or engine compression.
###
To the individual who thinks I work for Toyota:
No, I do not and if I did, would I be driving a Hyundai? Like many people in the United States, however, I am surrounded by people who own Honda and Toyota vehicles. Why? Because it is generally assumed that they are among the most reliable makes. Flawless and perfect? No. Better than many? Yes. If that were not a commonplace perception, a lot more Americans would be buying models built GM, Chrysler, etc.
I am writing with an important safety update. Some years back my airbag light came on, after which it was immediately traced by the dealer to the wiring under the seats. (This was one of the few problems my Hyundai dealer has diagnosed and repaired on the first try out of the many described in my review at the top of this page.)
Fast forward to the fall of 2008, at which time I received a factory notice of a silent recall for this very problem. So in addition to the fact that I may have neglected to mention that this is yet another problem I experienced with my car, I thought I should pass this info. Along to those who are not the original owner of an Elantra and may therefore be unaware of the safety recall that is in place.
Furthermore, anyone who has paid to have an identical problem diagnosed might wish to pursue a refund, for this is now the subject of a no-cost factory service. Specifically, the airbag wiring connections may come loose in the event anything hits the wiring or is shoved or otherwise stored under the driver/passenger seats. I have no idea how many model years are included in this silent recall. Please contact an authorized Hyundai service center to see if this service applies.
Just bought my 2001 Elantra for 1000 bucks, the owner sold this car with the 4 cyl code. Since I have experience with cars I purchased the car. Although the car had a check engine light and ran rough -- I had assumed for the price, how bad could it be.
Well replacing the right part at 70 bucks -- brought this car back to life. I will change the oil, brakes, and 2 tires.. What a deal -- the car has 160K and runs like new.
I would recommend this car...
I bought my 01 Elantra used back in 07. Since then I've come across MANY problems.
My first was the 02 sensor, which made my car fail inspection. Then the control arm broke, which could have been a very very serious accident if someone was behind me when it broke.
I recently just found out that there's a recall on the control arm. I had an axle break also.
A lot of the interior lights have gone out, for example the P D N R.. All those lights don't light up anymore.
For whatever reason, when it's cold outside my car does not let me unlock any doors in my car no matter how much I try to pull back the lock to unlock it. It only unlocks after I turn the headlights on.
Now I have problems it overheating.
It's not the same as when I first got it, and it gets very frustrating.
I bought a used '07 Elantra GLS that had 11,000 miles on it. Apparently it had been a lease that somebody didn't like. I can't imagine why, I love it! I have a 100 mile daily commute and this is the perfect car for it. It's been very dependable (I now have over 52,000 miles on it due to my commuting) and I haven't had a single problem with it. It has a manual transmission, and I taught my son how to drive a manual in it, and it still runs just fine. I regularly get 40 MPG highway (I don't know what I get in city mileage because only about 5% of all my miles are around town, it's mostly used for highway.) I have had zero problems with it, mind you, I do have it regularly serviced, oil changes every 3,000 miles, air filters every 25,000 miles, and timing belts every 60,000 (haven't gotten to that point yet but intend to replace the timing belt at that time.) I love this car and would recommend it to anybody looking for a dependable, fuel efficient vehicle.
Hyundai Elantra GLS 2002, and aside from the driver's side door lock problem, it has been great for me. It has 60K miles on it. I drive it hard, rarely change oil and pretty much abuse it. No problems. Mine's a standard shift.
2001 Hyundai Elantra:
1. At least 10 headlight bulb changes (finally did it myself and made it work by NOT touching the glass with my fingers as the tech was probably doing)
2. On my third set of tires at 80k miles, this car eats 'em
3. Five broken wheelstuds
4. Busted radiator
5. Bad thermostat
6. Two busted front struts
7. Check engine light on for approx. 60000 miles, dealership says gas vapor sensor acting up, but cannot find any leak, then next time tells me gas cap, and oh yeah nothing is covered under warranty I'm told.
Radio only works if a CD is present, numerous other small issues, but I'm stopping cuz I'm getting angry. NO, I WILL NOT BUY ANOTHER ONE.
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