I have an 88 trooper II with the 2.6 liter engine. I had a long block put in the trooper after the crank bearing went out. The vacuum lines were not hooked up completely. I am looking for some photos (digital is fine) of proper connected vacuum lines. My email is firstname.lastname@example.org. I need photos for the intake related lines the more the better :-)
I've also got an 88 trooper with the 2.6L and get 19-22mpg consistently. I've done absolutely nothing to it for 215,000 miles except typical oil changes, tires, timing belts and a couple of fuel pumps. Love it and am trying to keep it forever...but...Just moved to AZ and since moving here it seems that whenever it is above 105 degrees, after about 30-40 minutes of driving it sputters and then quits. I sit on the side of the road for a few then start back for another 5 minutes or so and same thing happens... Come back the next day and it's the same thing.. unless it's less than 100 then I can drive all day no problems...
Re trooper in AZ. have you checked your gas cap? I moved from WA state to Las Vegas, and when my tank was low and it was hot out (over 105*) it would vapor lock and die. since your post was written in July, now sept, you probably found the culprit, if not try a new gas cap they are a cheap try.
I am rebuilding a 92' Amigo 2.6 4x4. Using parts from Calmini including header, camshaft, and high compression pistons (10:1) @.20 overbore in hopes of close to 200Hp
As for the head cracking, some friends and I have rebuilt his 2.6 in a pickup truck with a cracked head (#3) and drilled out the coolant passages in the gasket. This seems to have helped quite a bit, also running a low temp thermostat. No problems in 3 years.
The problem with the 2.6L 4 is not the engine it isthe catalytic converter. I had the same problems as noted by the readers and went through 2 heads and one engine before I got the scope. A engine rebuild company owner said that it is heat build up due to a clogged catalytic converter. This was much like what was going on in big block GM motor homes, which had a small diameter exhaust, and in turn caused all kinds of problems until they increased the diameter of the exhaust. The 2.6 L 4 is a great engine and will run the 6 into the ground. It will pull you up anything that if you can get grip. Fixed the converter and all is well.
It had me going for sometime --- R. King.
My 1988 Trooper II 2,6 liter started sputting, had a compression test performed, found the first and second cylinders had between 25-45 psi. What causes this problem?
My wife tells me not to invest in it, while it was running it was good on gas and great vehicle in the winter times, especially here in Colorado. Looking for input. Thanks.
I just picked up an 88 Trooper II with a blown engine. I have a doner S10 Blazer with a 4.3. Has anyone ever heard of swapping the whole drive train, engine, tranny & TC? How do the mounts match? Issues with computers?
I own a 1989 Trooper with the 2.6 engine. Had the head / top end worked over a couple of years ago, but the bottom end is still original. It has about 139,000 on the odometer. Coolant level is still good; hasn't really changed since summer.
Lately, the temp gauge reflects that the engine is running cooler than it did this past summer when the needle climbed to a bit beyond halfway on the gauge, but now it barely registers a quarter of the way across.
Don't know what is happening here, but the engine runs smooth, burns a bit of oil, and there is loads of torque.
It's a 5-speed manual, I'm the original owner.
Sounds like your thermostat has taken a turn for the worse. Replace it and I will bet that your temps will be fine. A bad thermostat sometimes continues to work, just not as well.
I have a 1989 Trooper II SE with the 4-cylinder, 2.6 liter, 4ZE1 Fuel Injected gasoline engine and 5-speed manual transmission with over 175,000 miles and it runs great. I even pull a 10-ft trailer and my Kawasaki 610 Mule 4x4 UV during hunting season. I have pulled my 18-ft trailer and my 35hp diesel tractor and bush hog for short distances. The key is to keep up the routine maintenance and don't dog the vehicle. And, don't ride the clutch. The only problem has been a timing chain replacement and an occasional and slight engine surge at idle after driving at interstate highway speeds. I have found that loosening the gas cap to relieve the gas tank pressure and driving at 55mph solves the problem. I use Castrol GTX 20-50 high mileage engine oil. My problem is finding parts.
I bought an 89 Trooper 4cyl auto 4x4. With a bad motor and didn't know what the problem was at the time, but the vehicle was cheap!
Since then, had the motor rebuilt, expecting more power and better fuel mileage.
All the components are new, spark plugs, wires, distributor, air cleaner.
Took it back to the shop where motor was built, was told that the exhaust must be plugged up. So, cut out the catalytic converter, spliced exhaust. Still no power and very bad gas mileage.
Also, cleaned the EGR valve, rechecked timing, transmission fluid, new fuel filter.
I don't know what to do next. Any help would be great. email@example.com
I have a 1989 Trooper SE. 182,763 miles and still intact. The problem I'm having at the moment is the # 2 cylinder only has 25 lbs compression. All others have 170-180 lbs. I suspect a bad valve, but the cylinder will hold that 25 lbs for at least an hour. Any ideas? firstname.lastname@example.org.
I'd like to buy a 1998 Trooper II, but someone said to me that the 2.6 engine has an aluminum head, and it breaks easily with extreme hot weather, (by example Imperial valley, at July - Aug are between 120 - 130 Fahrenheit).
What about it? This is true or not? Can somebody help me?
1988 Trooper 2.6 MFI.
I got it from a friend, drove it for a year of two - it was running poorly and I stopped driving it for a year. Pulled the head last summer to find 3 or 4 burned valves on the 2 middle cylinders. but why? Chose to have the head re-done & give it another go. Things were fine till about two weeks ago. Hard to start, losing power/poor mileage. Found that the crank pulley was loose! Must have not torqed enough? keyway in the bottom gear wore to the point of sending timing way off. Now, to find a gear!
COOLING: Mine runs really cold, yes, it's in Alaska...
At 10 below the thing will *never* reach operating temperature at idle - has to be driven for a while.
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