Hi - Same commenter from above... Now my A/C has died! Arrrrrggghhh! Daimler-Chrysler really put some crummy air conditioners in these cars, didn't they!?!
I have a 96 cherokee, that also has the vibration problem. Funny thing is I also have replaced the drive belt twice, due to glazing..
Damiler Chrysler made bad air conditions?... I disagree.
They make poor quality, dangerous and prone to break automobiles!!!
I must agree with the other posts- 2000 Cherokee Sport, going on 3rd serpentine belt, drives like a car, front speakers gone!, front end shakes (wife won't drive it) however I have had no issues wit the AC. Any quick fix for the speakers???
I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport with a terrible front end. I also have a rattle coming from somewhere around the center of the vehicle when in drive, but not moving, shutting off and starting the vehicle. Both front speakers don't work.
The front end is fine on highway, but if I hit bumps, the Jeep feels as if it is going to fall apart in the front end. Clunks and whines when turning...
My Toyota Tacoma was a much better vehicle...
Front end shake - check tie rods, ball joints, track bar. Bad shocks will cause bad bouncing and wobble over bumps. I upgraded to a HD tie rod assembly. $140.00 at rustysoffroad.com. It works on non-lifted and lifted Cherokees. Check your u-joints.
There is a reason the Cherokee is a cheap SUV, and I think it's one of the best out there (bang for buck). Parts are easily accessible, and maybe you should be a little more mechanically inclined to own one of these.
The speakers are not blown; the wires run under the carpet and become disconnected or the wires might be worn through -- check it out. Fixed mine by wiring them myself and routing them in a better spot.
My Jeep rattled violently at highway speeds (appx. 50-55) and wouldn't stop until I slowed down about 20 mph or so. I replaced the steering damper (or steering stabilizer) and the problem was solved. It was a $30 part which I installed myself vs. spending tons of cash at an independent garage or at the dealership service dept.
My Jeep has front dashboard speakers that are vibrating too much to enjoy the music.
Any suggestions on a quick fix? How do I pop open the front dash to take a look at those speakers?
I own a 99 Jeep Cherokee Sport, and have all of the aforementioned problems. LOL right on..
Well here's my story; I drive the hell out of my Jeep here on Wisconsin crappy roads and banging, shaking, knocking, rocking and rattling... Yet this Jeep has only actually broken down once! Starts every time after 5 cranks!
Front end balance rattle goes away if you get her up to 65!
Turn your speaker balance to the right.. that fixes your sound.
And for any other electrical (dashboard) problems, just pump the miles. reset button a few times. haha.. yikes!
THE ANSWER... lay down under the front of your jeep; there should be a bar that goes straight across the bottom that's bolted to the frame of your Jeep. This bar is called the sway bar. The two spots where it is bolted to the frame should have rubber (the bushing) between the actual bolting plate and the frame; if you can see any looseness or any slight room between the bushing and bar, then your bushings are bad... now you all go to your nearest part store and buy these $11 bushings... and a 15mm wrench and take 15-25 minutes out of your day.
Lol to everyone who has spent hundreds trying to solve this problem, email me and tell me how it came out. email@example.com
I have a 2000 Cherokee Classic and haven't had the rattling problems at all with the front of the Jeep.
My A/C did go out, but it turned out to be a condenser inside of the Jeep. A good shop told me the refrigerant and oil combines over time and forms an acid, which will eat through aluminum, which the condenser is made out of. I had it replaced and the A/C is cold.
I do have a problem with the front speakers on the doors though. They will "work" when the doors are open and not when they are closed. When I took the Jeep in for warranty work, they replaced the "wire harness" which worked, but now without it under warranty I am wondering if there is a better fix. I haven't taken the door panels off since first I don't know how, but second I am wondering if there isn't an easier fix? Any help is appreciated.
I love this vehicle and will keep it for a while, but it would be nice for the front speakers to work.
I have had the mysterious death wobble, and a guy told me to replace the tires. I did, and the wobble is gone. It seems that choosing the right brand of tire is the important factor here. If you keep putting on the same brand of tires as the vehicle originally comes with, they will fail within 6 months. I won't mention any brand names, as I don't want to defame any particular company, but if you talk to a few good tire guys, I'm sure they can hook you up with a good set.
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport.
I am also experiencing:
- Front End wobble at 48-55mph. Goes away once you hit 65mph.
- Front Left & Right door speakers not working. (Very rarely they might suddenly work but then not work if you turn off the car and turn it back on.)
- Plastic nubs on center console have come off, too.
- Lots of serpentine belt changes! I find I have to change it at least 1 time each year, sometimes twice in a 12-month period. Regardless of brand, regardless of the time of year/weather, regardless of the garage its done at.
Repairs I've had to do:
- The AIRBAG light/No Bus/no speedometer-odometer-tachometer electrical issue. This is caused by oxidation of the electrical wiring harness contact ends in the dashboard. Jeep has a bulletin on it so beware if you haven't experienced this with your Cherokee Sport yet. You got to replace a wiring harness, soldering contacts, and using Jeep contact cleaning fluid. I had a garage do this. $12 for genuine Jeep parts, and about $100 for labor!
- Had to replace the U-joints. If you do too many sharp turns, your U-joints will start squeaking, regardless of lubrication. Squeaking is worse if you do sharp turns with 4WD engaged. Preventative measure is simply to take slower, slightly wider turns, and to do a three point turn instead of a sharp turn if maneuvering in a parking lot. Especially be careful with sharp turning as you navigate a drive-thru. This will keep the U-joints less worn for longer.
Other issues I'm having with it:
- The fuel gauge will show an empty tank (with or without illuminating the light) if the gas tank is between 2/3 and 3/4 full. If you add any fuel injector cleaner to the tank, the fuel gauge will randomly do this behavior regardless of the fuel level until the treated gas is mostly gone.
- The rear windshield wiper doesn't work when you press the button to the first "stop" to have it operate continuously. However, if you press the button to its second "stop", the 2-swipe cleaning wiper motion with washer fluid works.
For both of these, every mechanic I talk to wants to rip out the dashboard and do exploratory surgery... at $69/hr labor. I've learned to live with these two issues.
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