Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-150, 151-165, 166-180, 181-195, 196-210, 211-225, 226-240, 241-255, 256-270, 271-275
I have a 1998 GC laredo with 240000 miles. The voltmeter has been steadily declining since november and now here I am with a dead battery. The battery is brand new and I replaced the alterator yesterday however the problem still persists. If I get jumped the car will idle real rough and if I turn the lights on I have to hold the pedal almost WOT to keep the thing running although it is not revving high. While running it has no power to run anything like dome lights or any dash gauges. I need to get this fixed asap so I am not stranded at home. Thanks.
I own a 2003 JGC Overland and I have replaced the front rotors for the second time. The first time I got the dealership to do it because it was still under warranty. This time I personally replaced it with high end and rather expensive grooved rotors with high end brake pads and after 10000 clicks it is warped again. What I did notice when I replaced it is that the right hand side rotor must have generated a tremendous amount of heat because I had to persuade it with a hammer to come off. (The left side just slipped off)
If the car does not pull to one side when I apply the brakes it means that it grips evenly. My question is, what causes the extreme heat on the right hand side??
I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I have had to replace the driver's side door lock b/c of the duck quacking sound. I have recently been having problems with my left tail light. From the comments here, I think everyone who has these style of jeeps has had the same problems. It really does look like Jeep would have recalled these parts. I guess that would have cost them too much money. Let the buyers deal with the problem. Nice company motto!
The original brake light work around (cleaning contact, bending it up a bit, tin foil) temporarily worked now they don't work again. This should be a total Jeep recall, bloody ridiculous that they don't honor this at the Jeep dealerships. I've spent hours on this stupid problem and now done. I can't believe I'm going to have to spend $300 to get this Jeep brake light defect fixed. They know it's a problem yet do nothing except lose future customers.
Horten, Norway febr 11.2007
I have just bought a 1993 5.2l grand cherokee limited. The last owner said it was no problem with the electrical system. The first day I discovered that the reverse taillight on both side did not light up when I put the car in reverse. I can see that several owners has this problem. What is it really? Please give me an answer. Heres my email:flavioda@online.no, in case you want to mail me. PS, I am quit sure the last owner knew this, I found it out the first day.
I have a 2001 JGC with the same brake light problems. I played musical sockets (switched them around) and got the one light to work, however on the other side I had to lift up the ground contact for it to work. I was thinking about adding solder on the contacts to raise them up slightly, as a more permanent fix. After just replacing the water pump, I really can't wait to see what goes wrong with it next, the rotors? The door locks? The suspense is killing me! Thanks to everyone who commented on the brakes for a cheap solution.
Door locks seem to be a common problem. No known recalls as of this post. Best suggestion, buy and replace. Don't forget door trim tool available at any auto parts store and buy a couple of door panel clips (always break at least one). Very common for the dash mount speakers in any car to go bad (direct light and massive heat build up in the dash). However, the Infinity Gold system does not block the bass properly from the tweeters. Before you buy new tweeters, try this. Buy bass blockers from your local car audio store and (if you know how to calculate crossover points you can buy capacitors cheaper at an electronics store like Radio Shack) and install. If it does not help, it will prevent this problem from happening so quickly again with your new speakers. No backup lights in reverse or backup lights come on when you apply the brake is a sign of the neutral safety/backup switch going bad on the transmission. Not too expensive and takes a few minutes to replace. Voltage drain, dimming lights even though the alternator is good and battery is new are signs of bad battery cables (corrosion deep inside the cable), loose wire on starter (only starts when jumped), or crankshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor is first thing to replace if the vehicle will not start even though all else is good. Rough idle or hard to keep running, replace the camshaft position sensor. Bad CV shaft boots? Costs a little more, but the process is the same, replace the entire shaft. If the boot has gotten water or road grime inside, the joint has probably suffered damage. Bad materials can lead to brake rotor warpage, so can a sticking caliper. Spray caliper piston area with lubricant and compress caliper (much easier to do if you remove the master cylinder lid first and use caliper compressor). Make sure caliper travels smoothly, if not replace.
I recently purchased a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited that had the blown out tweeters problem. My solution was to go to Circuit City and have them install new speakers. The replacements I choose were: Pioneer 3.5" 2-way Speakers P/N TSA878. These are 2-way speakers with a woofer and a tweeter. They are currently priced at $49.99, and it is worth the extra $34.99 for the installation, since removal of the dash pad is required, and some minor modifications are needed to mount them properly since they are slightly larger than the factory units. I consider the sound quality to be far superior over the factory tweeters.
How do the front headlights come out? I took out the one long screw, but they still won't budge? I need to replace both headlights.
Also I had the duck noises in my doors as well. I bought my jeep used from another dealer and the warranty from them covered the locks. I had 4 out of 5 doors fixed under warranty for this. Also thanks for the rear light tips. This should save me another $250.
We also have a 2000 jgc, with the front drivers door lock quacking. Sometimes our headlights will be in the off position and will stay on, until you turn them on then off again. The other problem we seem to have is the check engine light coming on. It seems to be something with the transmission. Normally after driving the jeep for about an hour or so and it gets hot the check engine light will come on and it will spit and sputter, like it isn't shifting properly. Then after a day or so the light will go back off. Anyone else out there with a similar problem??? Also Have a weird sound coming out of the dash when stopping quickly, sounds like from the ashtray area,kinda of weird.
Thanks for any help!!!
I have a 2000 JGC Laredo that has this lovely "quacking" sound from the front door locks too. (Seems to be a common problem.) I pulled the panels and added some lithium grease to the contact points of the lock rods... and it didn't do anything.
I finally took it in, after about a month of the AFLAC duck living in my front doors, and was told that the actuators were going bad and that sooner or later the door locks would quit working altogether. Well, it will be hard to use my Jeep if I can't get in or out of it... and the thought of climbing in through the rear gate is not a pretty one.
Long story short, it will cost me $450 to get the two front actuators replaced... but if that "quacking" goes away I will gladly pay the price.
Also, the front dash speakers went out last week (Apparently another common problem) and will be replacing them myself with a pair of OEM Infinity speakers I found on eBay. The $100 spent on the new speakers is well worth the cost of my ebbing sanity... and they are very easy to replace. Between the "quacking" door locks and the blown dash speakers I have just about reached my wits end on sounds that I shouldn't have to hear while driving my Jeep down the road.
I do love Jeeps (this is my 4th one)...and realize that these things happen... but I am hoping that the next thing to go wrong on this Jeep doesn't make any noises. I will take a burned out light bulb any day.
2000 JGC V6 Laredo, same problems as most others, brake lights, door locks. You would think the brake light problems would be a safety issue and cause for a recall.
Chris, IL.
2000 JGC Limited Ed. - 80,000 miles.
First door quack started about a month ago. Being replaced at a Mastercare as I type this...I'll try the home fixes next time.
Rear tail light issues. I've just been replacing bulbs. Will try the home fixes recommended here this weekend.
I've also had the random headlight flashing when I leave the headlight switch on "auto". The flashing only seems to occur when it is raining. I figured water was getting in somewhere and making an electrical connection. I just don't use "auto" anymore.
Water pump started leaking this week... also being replaced as I type this. I read that 80,000 is the general lifespan of a water pump.
Thanks for all the great information shared here.
I also had the problem with the brake light not working when the headlights were on. I followed the recommendations in the post from 1st Jan 2005, 14:02 - very easily done and works great!
My Jeep is a 1999 model and also has had the popular problems with window motors and door locks.
Owner of a 2000 JGC and have been living without my liftgate for over a month now. Took it too the dealership and they said it'd cost $370.00 to get it fixed. I told them it sounded awfully high and he said it'd be cheaper if the gate wasn't locked, probably round $250.00. After spending the last hour reading this enter post, I see how you can pop the access cover inside and manually unlock the liftgate. You're telling me a Jeep dealer doesn't know this?? Sounds like they're trying to take me for some extra cash. I'm gonna try and fix this myself either buying the part online or from another dealership. Thanks to all who've posted. You've been a great help!