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I just wanted to take the time to let you know that I had the same problem with the brake/tail light. The brake light worked, but the tail light didn't. I slightly bent the contact and it WORKS!!!
The Internet is a wonderful thing, otherwise it probably would have cost me $100 for a garage to look at it.
Thank you for your help!
Brake light trouble:
First, thanks to all who have posted to this website.
I have edited a previous post to save time. I hope the original poster does not mind.
I own a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I too had the same problem on the left tail light/brake light. I was able to repair the light with info from this website. In return, I thought I'd post how I did it.
1. Remove the tail light assembly. Most of you know how to remove the light assembly if you've changed bulbs, so I won't cover that.
2. disconnect the wiring harness by sliding the red locking clip to the side in order to press the side of the male connector and pull apart.
3. Once you've got the tail assembly away from the vehicle and on a bench, remove the light socket for the tail/brake light. You will see 3 silver contact points inside the black plastic ring. 2 are grouped together and there is one that is opposite of the 2. The one by itself is the ground; the other two are the contacts for the tail light and brake light. The problem lies with the ground connector (the single one).
4. Clean all contacts with a Q-Tip and some sort of contact cleaner - rubbing alcohol will work.
5. You should notice that the ground contact is depressed into the plastic. I was able to very carefully lift up on the contact itself from the side using a dental pick, it almost felt spring loaded (like it wanted to return to the recessed position it was originally in), I then slid a thin shim of aluminum approximately the same size as the contact 1/16” thick under the contact (the shim I used was sticky on the back, it was actually a peice of thin aluminum signage that I cut a piece from). I gently reinserted the connector and tested.
Hope this helps...
Mgmason (remove this) @wans.net.
Likewise... Had some issues with my tweeters... I decided to forget the dealership and install some nice Pioneer tweeters instead. I had to do a custom fit to make sure that I didn't get any rattle as the Pioneer tweeters are much smaller... I traced the original tweeter flange on an 1/8th inch thick piece of plastic marking the bolt holes and cut out a plastic bracket... Mounted the tweeters into the custom bracket, hot glued them in to eliminate rattle and 'wham-O'. Sounds much nicer... I get higher highs and cleaner highs than I was able to with my blown dealership tweeters.
I've had the actuator, tweeter, and tail light problem on my 2000 JGC. I emailed Chrysler and was told it hasn't been reported as a problem. So for the person who posted earlier stating this is a problem for cars from 'hot and sunny' states. I live in Indy and it appears to be a problem nationally. I wouldn't look to Chrysler for any recalls on any of these common problems, but would definitely check online for actuators at the first sign of quack. If not, it sets off a chain reaction. I know I replaced all 4. Also, the driver side window fix was corrected by my cousin. He took off the door panel cleaned the window and it has worked fine since then. Luckily, the motor still functioned it just stuck in cold weather.
I have a 2000 Jeep GC.
I feel a little late, but cannot believe that I have had the same problem as so many others with my door locks and brake/tail lights for the past 3 months or so. I was actually searching google for a brake/tail light to purchase when this website site appeared, and I was shocked to find so many people with the same problems.
My husband followed the instructions given for the brake light, and yahoo it worked. However, now we have no tail lights.
I also have the quacking sound in the rear passenger door; we are searching for an actuator and hopefully this will solve the problem.
We have also noticed that sometimes the right front and rear back window will not go down when trying to open, we believe this may have a connection to the door lock problem.
I find all this to be very disturbing, especially since Chrysler is not taking responsibility for these problems; there should have been a recall years ago on these models.
Thanks for all the advice, although my husband just fixed the brake lights per the instructions, we have to go back outside to try to fix the tail lights.
Disturbed in North Carolina.
2000 Jeep GC, I had posted a comment earlier about the brake/tail light issue, and as I mentioned before, we fixed the brake light issue due to the great instructions previously provided. My husband and I proceeded with the tail light issue and was able to repair also. He removed the light socket and lifted the (gold) connectors to get more of a connection, this worked perfectly. For all those seeking a solution to this disturbing problem, please read the comments (instructions) provided by the gentlemen listed 1-5. These were great and we did not have to spend a dime. We now have brake and tail lights that work. Next weekend we will try to replace the actuator for the quacky sound coming from the door lock. We live in North Carolina and if you have any questions, please email fharris10@carolina.rr.com
Good Luck All.
I own a 2000 JGC and have the same problems with the door locks and the tail lights malfunctioning. My cousin has the same vehicle and he purchased an after market tail light kit that doesn't use those stupid sockets and they work great for him. Also I looked into an after market door locking system to replace the factory one. Me being a college student can't afford all of this at the same time, but my cousin did the door lock system change and has had no problems and it has been over a year for him with both after market changes. The after markets tail lights are manufactured by IPCW and you can get them at any speed shop or online at http://www.performancecenter.com/product/Lighting/Taillights/0/3/0/Jeep/2000/Grand+Cherokee. I am going to purchase the same lights. If you can take out a few screws and disconnect a plug then I recommend this as an option instead of paying $500 for new factory ones and the dealer to install them. Factory tail lights are $145 a piece and the after markets are about $250 for the pair.
Thank You so much for all the great info on taillights. I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee with the same problem. We bought a used taillight off e-bay and it too did not work. No return policy of course!!! I wish I had found this site before we spent the money. Will try the fix I found here tonite!!!
What a great site!I have a 2000 Jeep GC and have a quacking door lock on the rear passenger door, but I can live with that. My new problem (which I noticed this am) is the white reverse lights go on and stay on while the car is running. The brake lights and turn signals are functioning fine. Any ideas before I take it in? Bill in Las Vegas.
I have a 2000 Jeep GC and have had the same problems with the rear left tail light and the driver side door lock (grinding noise). I've also had to replace the alternator 3 times. There are some major electrical malfunctions on this car, and I can't believe Chrysler won't respond with a recall. --Jaded in San Diego.
I have a 2000 grand cherokee. Recently I've been had problems with getting my car to start. It will start up then cut off. I have to rev-up the motor for like 5 minutes to get it to stay running. I thought it was the fuel filter, but I changed that and that didn't work. Now my lights are flashing like my alternator is about to die. I believe these are two separate problems. If anyone knows what may be wrong with my jeep please let me know...mercerd1755@yahoo.com...
I heard about this in an earlier post, but I was wondering if there was a solution for it.
Whenever I hit a bump and my headlights are on my interior lights come on. They don't stay on very long, but I feel like car is possessed or something. Please let me know if anyone else is having this problem and how to fix it.
I have an '04 jeep with the same tail light issue, this isn't right, I wish they would just have a recall on it or something!!!
I have spent at least two weeks trying to repair each issue that is repeated over and over here. I am sure that the safety issues of the lights and brakes will be noted by some atty searching for proof that this is a recall issue and has not been addressed by the manuacturer and has caused some poor soul an injury or worse, much less traffic tickets.
I still cannot find a permanent fix to this.
Regarding the headlight cloudiness / replacement issue, this is what I did and it worked to almost complete restoration.
1. WalMart automotive dept... buy 400, 800, 1000, and 2000 grit auto grade sandpaper. Buy... PlastX glass & plastic cleaner by Meguiar's, Turtle Wax POLISHING compound and a Mothers Ball polishing attaching for your elec. drill. Buy... polyurethane clear, glossy.
2. Start w Plastx and 400 grit, sand lightly horiz and then vertically. Next, use 800, 1000, and then 2000, using plenty of PlastX for lube.
3. Follow with polishing compound and the polishing ball, let dry and when clear, seal with polyurethane clear gloss. Let dry completely about 12-24 hours before driving. Should save you about. $600 on new ones.
Brakes... obtain rotors from auto zone and find a mechanic to install. Savings 4 me $125.00 as opposed to $500.
Actuators on front left and right... GOOD LUCK!!!.
I took the driver door apart which took about an hr. but couldn't locate the replacement actuators except from dealer, but took parts and vehicle to a local import repair service and pd. 100 install, and 95.00 for each side part.
My reasoning for all this effort is to sell the vehicle as the unreliability of the safety issues are appalling. I advised my friends against purchasing these vehicles for the same reasons. I wish you all luck, thank you for your help with your prior postings. They helped me and I hope this will help all of you.
Darlene / Collierville, TN.
Crazy - I have had pretty much all of the above - quacky driver door, blown tweeters, rotors replaced twice, tie rods, axle leaks, front end alignments, new transmission, it just does not seem to end with this 2000 JGCL.
Here's the latest: the Jeep just quits when rolling down the road. On a highway - she just shut down - I put it into neutral and it fired up. Going home, quit again and would not start. Towed in for repair $$. Replaced battery. Next day, quit again, got a jump and almost made it home when it died. Waited 15 minutes and it started. Took it back to mechanic and tried replacing alternator (not the problem) - ended up replacing Map Sensor. 1 week later Jeep is quiting while driving AGAIN... anyone heard of this? Any suggestions?
I'm desperate and cannot trust this Jeep, especially when family drives it out.
Thanks all,
Greg.