18th Mar 2004, 19:27
I write this in response to the last comment, but it applies to all of you. Spend the initial money on a really good set of rotors, crossed drilled or slotted performance rotors and then forget about ever needing to change them again.
16th Apr 2004, 10:02
I have a 2001 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LTD 4.7 V8 that I bought new. It now has 64k miles on it and the dealer said I have about 20% brake pad left on the front and 40% on the rear. I have NEVER replaced them or had rotors warp. I'm wondering if the wheels on some of these jeeps are overtightened. I've always used the same tire company to change my tires and wonder if they torque them per specs and therefor keep from warping the rotors? It should be noted that I drive, well VERY aggressively. So I can't think I'm babying the brakes by any means.
14th Sep 2004, 20:45
We have a 2000 Grand Cherokee Limited. I've just had to change my brakes for the first time @ 42,000. I'm O.K. with this. I have the V8 and I drive it hard. Stay out of the dealer, go to an outside guy, spend the money on high end rotors with ceramic pads. I cannot understand why this is happening to people at 5,000. Sounds like the dealer is using sub-standard parts. I do experience a dash electrical problem here and there, but it's more of a glitch than a problem.
26th Sep 2008, 22:19
I work for a major (legal) off-road facility that sees literally hundreds of Jeeps from stock to full bore rock crawlers every weekend; year round. Been a mechanic for over 20 years. Here's how to effectively save money and rid yourself of most of the problems WITHOUT going to a dealer.
Brake issues: The factory rotors are thin & composite! Even an over torqued wheel can/will warp the rotors. Couple that with cheap materials, and brake riding, and even the newest of components will be ruined within several thousand miles. Doesn't matter how many miles the vehicle has. The dealer is only going to replace the parts with the same. Poof, problems again in a short time.
The fix? - Purchase a full set of drilled or AFTERMARKET STEEL rotors. The "hats" (pad contact area) are thicker and one piece. Over-torquing is eliminated and heat from "brake riding" habits (even the minimal) is decreased. No more brake troubles. - You DO NOT need to replace the calipers. Cost for a full set of 4 is around $250+/- (depending on where you get them). Go to a REGULAR shop that will install them for you. Your brake issues are history...
Tail Light problems: Purchase a set of aftermarket rear light assemblies WITH sockets $100+/- on eBay. A pair of wire cutters, crimper and about an hour and a half worth of work, and your crazy tail light issue is also resolved.
Door Lock/actuator fix: search for Mabuchi Mini Motors 9V - 12V DC - Remove your old lock actuator and disassemble it to the motor itself. The metal drive gear on it will slide off (flat spot drives the gear). Replace the motor, re-assemble it, and you have a new door lock actuator for a whole $11 (including shipping).
Window regulators: this is the tough one, you can get them from $40-$100 for aftermarket replacements. There's no trick or secret, same work involved. Fact is, the aftermarket again, is equal to or better than the factory replacement parts for half to one third the cost.
Steering shudder: (AKA Death wobble) Some of you reported this. Go to http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/wj/wj_dualsssetup.html and purchase their steering stabilizer relocation kit OR buy a new steering stabilizer (band aide for bad SS placement by the factory). Steering shudder gone (as long as you don't have warped rotors and your tie rod ends/draglink/etc... are in good shape)
One last thing, stay FAR AWAY from DEALERS FOR PARTS for the Grand Cherokee. Electronics such as sensors can be had for one third the price and the same quality or better.
Yea, you/we shouldn't have to go thru this with locks/regulators, steering geometry issues. I see 20 year old vehicles with OEM parts still working today, and there's no reason for it considering the price of vehicles today. BUT, the alternative and price to fix most of the JGC's common issues far outweighs buying a new over-priced vehicle.
Consider one more thing, these issues are far less problematic than some other vehicles of this year (i.e. Ford Expedition! Motor problems, etc..)
23rd Jan 2010, 11:25
My wife and I have 2000 JGC we bought new. It currently has over 200k miles. I have never taken it to a dealer, but it has problems with the brakes pulsing, and has had this problem since about 30k. Each time I get them fixed, it pulses just like it had warped rotors the minute I drive it out of the repair shop. It currently has lifetime warranty rotors and new calipers on it. My theory is that there is something wrong with the anti-lock system, but have no proof. It has never failed to stop, but it is annoying to have the car shake every time I stop.