2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo In-line 6 cyl. 4.0L from North America - Comments

16th Feb 2010, 22:30

2000 GJC.

- Electronics in passenger door

- Mysterious coolant leaks

- Brake lights

- Oil leaks

- Weak heat output

I am very unhappy with this vehicle.

Maybe Hollywood will buy it from me, and The Joker can blow it up or something.

9th Mar 2010, 18:57

I am just so amazed at all the comments on this board! My Jeep GCL has ALL the same problems!

I bought the Jeep used at 70,000 miles, and thought it was great. Noticed it started leaking coolant soon after buying it, and replaced the water pump. It worked for awhile, but now I still have to add antifreeze like once every 2 weeks, but can find no leaks!

3 of my door locks have gone bad in past few months.

Now my oil pressure gauge stays at 0. Going to try and replace the oil pump, but I'm feeling a little discouraged now after reading its results. If anybody has any ideas, I would appreciate it!

Chrysler DEFINITELY needs to recall this Jeep!

25th Mar 2010, 20:32

I purchased a 2000 GCL, 4.0 straight 6 back in Dec. 2009 and fell in love with it. Since putting on 7,000 miles in the last couple of months, we are noticing the low coolant light come on, and not losing much coolant at all. No leak that we can see underneath or on top of engine. Coming home last week from a trip, the oil pressure dropped when idling at gas station. While driving the rest of the way home, pressure was fine, until we came to a stop or idle. It would then drop back to 0. We are replacing the oil pump to see if this helps. I am not going to drive and keep idling at 0, I surely don't want to throw a rod. The oil screen did look quite dirty. We are hoping this helps.

So far, no problems with locks or anything else. I am going to keep my eye out for the coolant though. I just love this vehicle. It is SO comfortable to take a trip in. Besides that, the doors are large and I can sport two large Ohio State magnets on both sides!! :) Good luck.

29th May 2010, 15:32

Oil Pressure Going to Zero at Idle:

I have seen a lot of people saying they have this condition and are trying various remedies.

I currently have this problem and would REALLY like to hear from some people as to what fixed it for them!

I have tried the sensor like many before me with no help. I really need some direction, here.

3rd Jun 2010, 20:41

I have a 2000 JGC with 42,200 miles... my baby... LOSING COOLANT AND NO ONE KNOWS WHY OR WHERE. Engine is now tapping when just started. Time to seek legal advice...

Do NOT just sit and do nothing...

12th Jun 2010, 07:55

CRACKED HEAD. My girlfriend's son just bought one, but didn't know its issues. My cylinder head service mechanic says she has had many of these cracked heads come in on this model. The antifreeze is getting into one of the pistons, igniting with the gas, and getting shot out the tail pipe. I have concluded that at least the 2000 4.0 model was built with defective cylinder head. So if you start loosing antifreeze, and don't know where it's going, get the head changed before it leads to other issues. Like messing with a catalytic converter, overheating the engine, etc.

Just bought the Jeep, and I'm looking it over now. Yep, it needs front rotors, (makes it jitter when you apply the brakes) rebuilt head, (factory should replace everyone's head for free) and I have found an issue with the dash panel. Gauges seem to be jumping everywhere. First it will charge, then discharge. Also discovered a dead battery come morning. Need to figure that one out.

Jerry in Maine.

5th Jul 2010, 14:49

I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee Laredo that we keep replacing the fan relay on and also the electric fan! We've replaced the fan relay 8 times in 2 years and the electric fan 2 times within a year! I'm sick of this and need help! Email me at bjhrowe@embarqmail.com

8th Jul 2010, 16:16

Bought a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport and love it... well maybe not as much as I first thought. It goes through snow better than all vehicles I have previously had, and gets decent mileage; 17mpg to 23mpg.

The first problem I had; I told a mechanic I was losing coolant and had low pressure (0 psi), which finally changed to 20, and still ran fine. Told him I thought it was a cracked head and/or head gasket leaking. He told me no, these models were iron clad. He said to change the oil sending unit (takes the pressure reading from the oil pump), and so I did, and no problem fixed, still low oil pressure. Did an oil analysis, and I was told there was no abnormal bearing or metal component wear, but there was a lot of water and antifreeze in the oil. Was told the engine was still good.

Had a different mechanic replace the head gasket, and was told the head was fine. Still had no oil pressure (meaning 20 instead of 40, dropped after running for 20 minutes in winter or until it had been at 210 deg for at least five minutes), was told the oil pump was bad, so he changed it and replaced the oil sending unit for free. Still losing antifreeze and oil pressure. I told the mechanic this, and told me he assured me it was fixed. AHHH, I don't think so.

Was changing my oil and saw lots of metal components. Well I took it to the mechanic, and he said well he was sorry that he thought he got the problem, and he isn't willing to fix the problem at much of a reasonable cost. I guess I am going to pull the motor and replace the bottom, or probably the whole motor.

Info I wish I had known earlier and may help you:

- Head was cracked; was told it was head gasket.

- Noticed antifreeze in oil - oil in antifreeze, and was told it was radiator fill (fix it in a bottle to repair radiator leak)

- Had oil pump replaced (wasn't needed and was told it needed to be)

- Replaced oil sending unit (was told to change it; didn't need to be)

- Best information I have to give is that I've heard that in some of the mid to late 90s, and maybe into 2000s models, the oil gauges and temp gauges on dash panel were bad and replaced by the manufacturer (can't verify 100%, was just told). Make sure to put a manual gauge on the pump where the sending unit goes to verify the oil pressure. This may save you the cost of an oil pump and sending unit, or at least one. If you are losing coolant and there's no sign of a leak, take it to a place to have an oil analysis done (I took mine to a heavy machinery place). It was the best $17 dollars I have spent on this Jeep yet.

Good Luck.

13th Jul 2010, 00:53

Ugh. I am so glad I only paid 2,500 for this car. I have had problems with it since I got it last year. Love it to death but something is always wrong.

1) Left brake light out.

2) Right brake light goes out a month later.

From what I hear this will happen every six months or so due to corrosion on the panel of the entire tail light, which causes the thing that holds the bulb not to connect with the panel.

3) Coolant leak for a while but maintains now.

4) Only 1 door lock works so I have to manually lock and unlock doors for everyone else.

5) Jitters when I press the brakes.

6) Hate that its automatically on overdrive.

7) Trunk door will sometimes fall by itself. I have the bruises to prove it.

8) Fan went out. I replaced the motor for the fan.

Now I'm just waiting on the next screw up, some I can dish over my check.