I Have a Mercedes 108 on a T plate. Just had all four injectors replaced. The service guys had to take the engine out to get the injectors out as they were so well stuck in. Prior to this work being done it ran fine, but is now stuck in limp mode where it limits itself to 3000 revs (Sunday driver!). The garage that did the work say it it not their problem and I should replace the on board computer. Anyone got any ideas?
Hi, I have the same problem with the engine being limited to 3000 rpm when it warms up. When cold and started it is OK. Clutch has been changed and also the glow plugs light stays on for about a minute when the engine is warm. Can anyone help please. I was told that it is probably the clutch switch? Where is this? Any help will be appreciated as it is really embarrassing when on the road; a Citroen 2cv overtook me:-)
Mine is doing the same too and is becoming a real pain.
I had been told about the clutch switch problem too so replaced it, but alas it didn't make any difference. By the way its located just above the clutch pedal and cost about 8 quid.
Had mine connected to a diagnostic unit at the weekend. It supplied two fault codes: P0703 Brake Signal through CAN and P1470 Charge Pressure Control. However the engineer was still none the wiser because he didn't know what they meant, and no one else in the service department could be bothered to help either. So if anyone can point me in the right direction, eg. where can these sensors? be found and what they actually mean, I would be very grateful.
I have a Viano V-Class Ambiente 2.2 diesel. X-reg. It has been nothing but continuous problems since new. Now done nearly 120,000 miles, but costing a fortune to keep on the road; £4000+ this year. Full MB service record, but MB seem to be good at finding (new) faults and bad at fixing any of them.
I also have a 2001 E-Class CDE diesel 3.2. Just 34000 miles from new, but again problem after problem. All discs have already been replaced and the dealer now tells me they need replacing again! Also, the turbo recently failed leaving me with no power on the road, and a very hefty repair bill.
I will NEVER EVER touch an MB again. I would rather walk.
I have a 110 Vito diesel van that will not start. Fuel system bleeding out o/k. New injectors, heater plugs, crank sensor fitted; still won't start.
Purchased Vito 108 on 51 plate. Very disappointed. As all the other comments, glow plug light stays on (sometimes for half hour) heater fan packed up, drive-shaft boots need changing nearly as often as the van needs diesel, and the knocking on the front end!!! been told its the steering rack, still goes through mot, but safe or not WHAT A DIN!!
I will never touch another M-B.
Have just bought a Vito 108, year 1998, problem is the central locking. The passenger door will lock all doors, but not the drivers door. The key won't even turn in the driver's side lock, and can't be locked from the inside.
So I will have to go see about having it fixed, has anyone had this experience, or know if it's a costly job to repair?
Much appreciated if anyone can pass on some info!
Hi. Have Mercedes Vito 110 (2000). Put it in for a service (non-mb garage) and it came back not revving above 3000. Took it back and they said they had fixed it. It started fine and ran normally for about half an hour then rev limiter kicked in again. Garage denies responsibility. Has anyone got any ideas? They changed the air filter, fuel fiter and oil (or so they said). Thanks. Michael.
Have a 108 cdi on an x plate and am hearing a knocking sound under power. it goes when I lift off. I also seem to get a lot of noise from the suspension or steering when I go over bumps, passes mot though. con anyone enlighten me as to a remedy? touch wood other than the poor bodywork it has given me no trouble and is very economical to run.
I have a vito 108 and found to be using a lot of fuel, after getting to injectors one is badly leaking diesel!and everything is real coked up!! just to top it off I cannot remove injector!!! can anyone please help to ease out???
Regards scott 07971924817.
I have just bought a 108 CDI X reg after having a T reg 108d for years and years, and never had any trouble at all, just normal MOT costs, so I stayed with MB, only had the CDI a couple of days, and it makes the 108d drive like a sports car.
Unlike other comments, it does go over 3000 revs, but needs a long stretch of road to get there.
It sounds like it struggles on tick over, and doesn't respond quick on pressing the accelerator.
Have checked the vacuum sensor and main air intake pipe, and they are thick of black oil or diesel coke.
I can hear that the turbo seems to work OK.
Any suggestions would be helpful; scrapping it seems a good idea.
I must be lucky my 110 cdi on a T plate bought 2nd hand with 66 thousand on the clock has been very good until now, it is at present in the workshop with engine problems. A buildup of goo in the INLET/EXHAUST manifolds causing fumes to enter drivers cab. The van has now done 164000+miles.
I have just paid out £760*69 to have the inlet/exhaust manifolds @ the top of the engine cleared of a nasty build up of carbon goo, also had a bolt replacedto thenumber 2 injector clamp. The breather system was in a bad state also, the workshop advise me to get shot of the vehicle which is a 110 c.d.i again on a T registration. I think it maybe a TRANSIT next time, sorry to use a rude word.
You expect more from MERCEDES, or is it the fuel companies?
Hi, I just bought a 2000 110 CDI Vito to convert into a camper. I wish I had found this site before, I might have thought twice.
I have a problem with the heat in the engine; the temp gauge doesn't budge above 40, and as a result, I think it's pumping twice as much fuel into the engine (expensive). Has anyone else had this problem?
Also the heat into the cab is just not great; are the 2 problems linked? Thanks.
I'm glad we're not the only ones.
I run a building contractors, we purchased a Vito 110cdi auto brand new from MB. on an 03 plate. It has now done around 120k, not huge mileage.
It's had the following:
Rebuilt gearbox and torque converter - £3100
8 injectors - £1600
Suspension parts - £400
New battery - £125
New glow plugs - £200.
Plus the usual seals in pressure regulator, glow plug box thing, brake switch etc.
Plus bills for over £2000 for servicing and fault finding.
It has been in and out of the garage more than any other vehicle I've ever owned. We have it serviced on the button every time, and still it doesn't work. Again this morning it didn't start, having only come back from servicing 2 weeks ago.
It has cost me so much time and money, as you can understand, being a builder with no van is a big issue.
It also doesn't go above 3000rpm.
I am going to go and look at these vacuum hoses and bolts that hold in the injectors, and a couple of other bits suggested here. If this doesn't fix it I'm going to set it on fire.
We also run an X reg VW Transporter with 160k on it. That thing is fautless. Never ever goes wrong and has less rust.
I also drive a 2005 E320 Cdi estate that I've had from new, which although it's a nice car, has had a lot of problems, mainly electrical - phone system, parking sensors, false warning lights, going into limp mode, heater packed up.
The E-Class is going, to be replaced with either an Audi estate or a Nissan pick up.
I will never again purchase a Mercedes Benz. I have driven E-Class estates for the past 11 years and they are getting substantially worse with age.
One little thing I was told by a dealer re Vitos is to check the rear brake bulbs, as if they're incorrect or out, it will limit the revs, this may be for autos only though.
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