Check the fuel injectors.
I would say repair pattern is.
1) ignition leads.
2) fuel filter (pressure check)
3) distributor cap.
4) distributor assembly.
5) alternator (load test 1st)
These are common areas for nissans, and if it takes oil please do a leak down test. and if you need a overhaul. Do a top end overhaul, I made a very expensive mistake of a complete overhaul at 180,000km on a much abused sentra.
I own a 1995 altima with 124,000 miles I purchased it with 3,000 miles in late 1996. It has been a very good car with few repairs oxy sensor 10,000 miles, power window unit 118,000 distributor 122,000 not bad for 7 1/2 yrs. With price of new cars I just had the car repainted and expect to drive 3 or 4 more good yrs.
My Altima (94) would stall out at certain times - but the check engine light was coming on also. In my case the problem was an electrical connection regarding the temperature coolant sensor - it was just a bit loose - but the engine cooling fans would kick on - combined with some trouble I'm having with spark plug wires - and would stall the car out. So if your check engine light is coming on, that loose sensor could lead to a stall. However, this usually didn't happen while driving - mostly at lights/idle or close to it as I was driving slowly or shifting.
I have been troubleshooting the 1994 nissan altima for several weeks to find the cause of it stalling (dying) at lights or while going 55 mph and registering fault 11 & 21. At first I thought it was loosing a ground, so that the car would shut down electrically. However the entire harness was pinned out and checked for voltages and everything was normal (all grounds too - with car hot & cold) (this is after 4 distributor replacements and coils). Then the ECM was replaced, as it was suspect, however the symptoms did not change. Then it seemed that after about 30 minutes of running, the car would invariably die, and after 30-45 min of cooling it would run fine (for another 30 min). This suggested a temperature issue. After placing ice cubes on the distributor the cycle could be accelerated...4 min cooling time before the car would start and run again for a while. A test of continuously putting ice on the distributor while running, showed longer running time was accomplished. The distributor appears to get too hot and seems to be perhaps a design flaw in this vehicle. I am thinking on ways to tackle this problem. I am thinking that all 4 distributors had the same issue/flaw. I am not sure if a brand new one would fix the problem as probably this problem is being recycled from owner to owner with rebuilt ones. Or perhaps a supped up one might do the trick. firstname.lastname@example.org.
I have had no problems with my Nissan 1994 Altima until the last year, after 120,000 miles. It idles hard, but does not stall. When I tried to get a smog test done, they had to adjust the timing. I ended up getting the fuel injector changed and an expert adviser told me that it is possibly a vacuumn leak. Said to try carburetor spray on the hoses and if it stops idling hard after spraying on, then it's a hose leak-old rubber and needs to be change. Didn't think it was a valve problem.
Has anyone thought about getting the timing checked?
I had so many problems with electrical system of my 94 Altima I will never buy a Nissan vehicle again. The distributor had a bad seal that started leaking oil and has to replace the whole thing. Mass airflow sensor went bad and engine was running real rough at low RPMs. Power transistor went bad too. Quick search on the web will show these are all common problems in Altimas.
I think you've been had. All you have to do in that case is clean to oil out of the distributor, replace the two o-ring seals and you're good to go for another 100K miles. or so, at least as far as the distributor goes.
Hi, to all the answer to my earlier post (signed email@example.com). The problem was fixed when a distributor was purchased from an alternate source rather than the dealer. The dealers are apparently not aware that they are reselling cores that are not functional at higher temperatures.
I have replaced the crank sensor in my '94 altima twice in the last year and it just went out again this morning. This makes it very difficult to get where you're going. Anyone know what the real fix to this problem is? I've been buying from a parts store and not a Nissan dealer.
The radio in my 1994 Altima GLE does not function any longer. This is a factory installed unit consisting of an AM/FM radio, cassette and CD player. None of the components operate (radio, CD or cassette). The unit suddenly lost power. No other electrical utility or option has failed (i.e., power windows, power door locks, etc.). Hope you can give some insight in diagnosing this problem. This car has a nice sound system, and I truly would like to have the function restored.
Thanks in advance, Ronny.
My 1994 Nissan Altima failed smog at 111,010 miles. The measured NOX readings are 1027 at 15 mph and 888 at 25 mph. The EGR valve was checked to be working condition. Do I need the catalytic converter replaced? What else should I check?
I have a 94 Nissan Altima that has a few problems. First is it leaks oil from the front passanger side. Oil was leaking into the distributor at one point and I had to have it replaced, then I had all the seals replaced as the shop could not find where it was leaking from. It still leaks. But my main problem is that it keeps blowing the fuse to the speedometer. I was told it was a bad voltage regulator in the alternator I have replaced the alternator 4 times now and still have the exact same problem. It has gotten to the point that as soon as you put the car is put into drive it will blow the fuse. HELP.
I have a 94 altima, and just dealt with that very problem. Had to take it to the "$" nissan dealer to track the problem down. Some how the "shift lock" device was blowing the same fuse. (step on the brake... -blown) He simply removed it, and now I can shift the car into drive without depressing the brake first.
I just bought a 94 Altima GXE and it stalls!! I will be driving on the highway and then it would start sputtering and losing power, then I would shut it off and turn it on real quick and it would take go!!
This is extremely frustrating to do... and if I am on the local roads and go a block then get to a stop sign, the car still would have to be shut off and restarted, then it would take off... any ideas?
I was told maybe new spark plugs and wires might be the key.
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