3 Day's after I bought this car it began dying out at stoplights.We have had the car checked by more than 6 mechanics,and none of them have been able to agree as to the problem. When you stop the engine revs itself up then dies. We were told it was the oxygen sensor. We changed it and the problem returned three days later. After another diagnostic, the mechanic told us it was still the O2 sensor and also the fuel pump voltage is low.
If anyone has had the same problem with the 1990's 4 door model please give me a clue, cause all of mine were left at the last stoplight. Otherwise I love this car, it is responsive and very comfortable.
About the revving and dying. I had a 1989 Olds Cutlass Supreme that did the same thing. It was the brain/main computer that went out/bad. It eventually got to the point where it wouldn't start. It was kind of pricey to replace (over $1000) but after which it was back to normal. Who knows maybe you can find someone to replace it for cheaper.
If you still have not found the trouble try looking at the throttle position sensor.
I had a similar problem recently (my Olds has 150,000 miles and is driven in the country) and the mechanic replaced the map sensor and wiring harness. It runs fine now, but the "check engine soon" light comes on after around 5-10 minutes of driving, which I'm pretty sure has to do with the electronics again, not any other system because the car still runs like it did before it started dying at stoplights. A couple weeks before this latest problem, the gas gage started displaying wrong information and I haven't gotten that fixed yet (I just keep track of mileage and refill every couple hundred miles). Besides those two, I've only had a cracked hose which leaked coolant and a bad fuel filter leaking oil, both very cheap fixes. These latest electronic malfunctions are a a little pricier though ($300) and I'm really hoping they don't lead to worse things!!
In regards to your trouble with the 1990 Cutlass Supreme, It may not be an engine or even engine management problem. I have seen early 90's GM vehicles (fwd 4&6 cyl.) that have had faulty switches for the lock up converter, causing them to stay locked as you decelerate, usually during high speed (highway) or areas where moderate speeds are held for longer periods of time. To test this is quite simple. Locate the switch (mounted on the trans. housing) and unplug. Drive the vehicle as normal and you will note that your problem may be gone. It will be fixed right away or this is not your particular problem. If not, clean the contacts on your switch and wiring harness and reattach (after applying some dielectric grease of course). If this does cure your troubles, leave it unplugged. Cost of repair is sometimes worth more than the vehicle itself, and at worst your car will rev a little higher at cruising speed.
I read the problem you had with your 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, due to the fact I was searching for the answer myself, before I saw your "exact" problem. I talked to a few mechanics before one told me the answer over the phone. Solution: (common; after a new battery is installed the brain/main computer must re-program itself, and driving it around won't solve this in this case) Instead; put your emergency brake on, and let your 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme idle in gear (i used Drive) for about 20 minutes until your fan comes on, if it doesn't come on within 20 minutes turn your air-conditioner on. This solved the problem of reving up by itself and stalling at stop lights/signs. I doubted this until I tried it. It sounded far fetch me but it worked.
Well, you car was a teenager when you got it!
That's about 90 in people years.
I had a problem a while ago on my 90 cutlass that sounds the same as the one you mentioned above causing the car to rev up and stall on occasion while idling. I had the car tuned up, but it did not fix the problem. Finally I took it to a different mechanic and he replaced the engine coil (I am not exactly sure what it is). After that the car ran fine. That was at 130,000 miles and the car is still running today at 225,000 miles. In fact that was the last major engine repair I had to do (besides some repairs to some leaky hoses). If I remember correctly it cost about $500 but I have certainly made a nice return on that investment. The only other thing that I have had in the past that causes the car to stall is a low battery, but it usually fixes itself once the computer resets with a new battery installed.
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