22nd Aug 2009, 23:30

To the above two posts; I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT with a 3.8 which I bought at auction. I have had the two above problems and fixed both. The steering issue was my rack and pinion AND the pump. The rack was leaking and the pump wasn't providing enough pressure. The low coolant light was a faulty sensor that needed replacement.

30th Oct 2009, 19:03

(90,000 KM-50,000 miles) 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 3.1... When starting car, does not move when put into drive. Have to try first gear to see if it moves, if not, reverse, then first again. Once it starts to move then I can put it in drive. Runs OK on the highway but at stop signs need to start very slowly or RPMs rev too high. Changing tranny oil and filter this week but looks like a used transmission is in my future.

Never had transmission problems with any other car... why are we actually paying to bail out GM?? Should have just let them die like their cars!!!

31st Oct 2009, 01:18

I have a 2000 Grand Prix. About 2 months ago I had to keep water and coolant in my car about every day or 2. Now when I put water or coolant in my car, it runs out like a faucet. The radiator doesn't seem to be leaking at all. The coolant comes from close by the overfill jug. Also my motor seems to be idling by itself. Someone please give me a clue to what could be wrong???

5th Nov 2009, 08:34

More than likely it's your water pump, I had the same problem.

11th Oct 2010, 17:49

The hard shift issue is a design problem in my opinion. The PCM is designed to watch shift speeds, and if the shift speed is longer than 6 tenths of one second, the computer thinks it is slipping and will go into a hard shift mode, to prevent the trans from overheating. The problem with that is, all automatic transmissions that get up in miles will start to shift slower. You won't notice this, and it is not a problem. So the computer in my opinion, is programmed too sensitive. Since normally operating transmissions change gears slower as it ages, it doesn't mean the trans is slipping, but the computer thinks so.

The fix for this is to add a $100 shift kit from either Trans-go or ZZperformance. The term "shift kit" is used loosely, as this does NOT make harsh shifts, like a shift kit did with the old school cars. This instead SPEEDS UP the shifts, so the computer can see that the trans is shifting fast enough into the next gear. With this kit installed (takes about an hour to install) you will barely feel the trans shifting at all. Like I said either a shop or you can install this in about 1-2 hours. And can be installed by simply removing the trans fluid pan and installing the kit. I really feel bad for people that paid for new transmissions or to have them rebuilt.

Oh as for the 4th overdrive gear... it is the 4th gear shaft that has stripped all of its teeth. There is nothing you can do but have the 4th hub replaced. It does not require a complete rebuild of the trans. Hope this info helps, and hope the trans issue does not scare you away from buying such an awesome Grand Prix, unlike the GM haters on this site want you to believe. I will check this periodically to answer any questions. I own and drive a Grand Prix myself. Take care!

9th Nov 2010, 00:11

I have a question for you, I am looking at purchasing a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT that has 245000 kms on it. As far as I know, all it needs is brakes and a wheel bearing. The gentleman is asking for 1000 dollars. Is this worth buying?

6th Dec 2010, 01:02

If anyone reading this forum is wondering what the fix is for all these problems, it is simple. Don't buy a Grand Prix. But... if you already have one, I can pretty much guarantee you've experienced some if not all of the previously mentioned problems.

Here is a list of fixes for most of them.

Key stuck in ignition

- There is a sensor with a dual action piston attached to the side of the ignition lock cylinder. This part inevitably fails. Remove the plastics from around the steering column, locate it (it is on the right side of the lock cylinder and is a chrome barrel shaped sensor with a plastic plug in). Remove it or replace it.

Windows don't roll up and down

- GM window regulators fail. A wrecking yard sells brand new replacement regulators for around $100. Have a mechanically savvy friend help you take off the door panel and replace it.

Front end vibration upon acceleration (especially in the GTP's)

- CV axles go bad in these. The boots aren't torn, so the mechanic shop never thinks it is the axles. It's the axles.

Coolant leaks resulting in low coolant light on, no heater, overheating, etc..

- GM will never admit that the "red" coolant (DEXCOOL) eats plastic. IT EATS PLASTIC. On the 3.8's, there are two plastic coolant elbows on the passenger side of the engine. They have to be replaced. On the 3.1's and 3.4's (in other applications), the intake gasket is plastic and will, WITHOUT A DOUBT, leak. When replacing it, make sure the new gasket is FELPRO's steel gasket.


- Don't change your tranny because of the hard shift problem everyone has. A tranny shop would love you to do otherwise. There are other GM applications that have this same problem. It is the TCC solenoid. (Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid). It is a small sensor located in the side of the transmission's valve body. No quick fix here. The side cover of the tranny has to be removed to access the valve body. ANY mechanic shop can fix it.

Just a couple of other things that are common on all cars - when you change spark plugs due to the common misfire, ALWAYS CHANGE THE WIRES TOO. It is usually the wires that fail. And, the vibration when you brake? It needs front pads and new rotors. And, GM fuel pumps suck. You will probably do a fuel pump in your Grand Prix.

All the other stuff - door panel switches falling out, radio lights going out, unending electrical issues - It's a Pontiac.

28th Dec 2010, 03:49

I have a 01 Grand Prix GT. It has 78 thousand miles on it. It's the best car I've ever owned in the last 7 years I had it. I only put in about $1200 into it, if you change mostly everything yourself.

The only thing that was wrong was this key; it wouldn't come out, so we sent it to the dealer, and they fixed it for a G, so that was the only major thing wrong with it.

But there is this weird problem, whenever I turn the wheel, when you're going slow, like turning out of a parking spot, it makes a boom; it sounds like something is going to snap. I don't know.

31st Dec 2010, 19:16

If your bearing plates go bad on your struts, then your springs will bind up when you make a turn. This can result in a broken spring, which would more than likely puncture the strut. It has happened to me before.