To the fortunate fellow who scored the 914 at the charity auction ---
I strongly suggest, as soon as you can, pull the heads and at least replace the exhaust valves. (preferably "have the heads done")
Broken off valve heads are one of the few things that will suddenly kill your otherwise almost bulletproof motor.
Come visit www.shoptalkforums.com, all air cooled VW (914 counts) tech forums.
The Type4um covers all things T4 (914/4 engine type) related, and the fuel injection and 914 forums are great sources of info.
I have made over 110mph in my 73 914 with no problem. A few mods and and it could get to 145.
I just picked up a 914 not sure what year with a 5 speed transmission. I believe it has the 2.0L engine. It has a horrible oil leak which I believe is the push rod so it's in the shop right now. The interior is awesome, underneath is clean, and the exterior is a bit rough. Any suggestions? please e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org. Thank you.
Why it was suggested that the guy who got the car at the charity lot "replace his valves" arbitrarily is a mystery to me. If the car is running properly, quietly, makes power and isn't passing oil through the valve guides, there is no good reason whatsoever to pull the heads. Do your valve adjustments on schedule and enjoy the car.
Just moved to Milford, CT. During my first run around the area I was pleased to see a 914 (yr?) in some guys driveway. The car is kind of rough, but looks straight. She is uncovered, and probably in the same spot for years. Any ideas on how to approach the owner, and what to offer..?
Also, a BMW 2002, just sitting, about 20 houses down from the 914.
Greeting. I have just purchased a 914 could anyone inform me if a break master silinder that I will need to buy for it can be from a VW beetle? and what parts can I count on in the VW parts to fit my 914.
I just finished building an engine for my '73. It's now a 2056 instead of a 1971 (stock 2.0) with a more radical split duration cam, Dellorto carburetors, upgraded valvetrain, exhaust, etc etc, and it probably would top out at 140. The engine's got around 130hp and I've had it up to 125 on the highway no problem. Check out www.aircooledtechnology.com. That's where I bought all my TIV performance parts. Jake Raby is the man.
The guy claiming the speed of 105 was unattainable probably has never done anything more than look at a 914, and its looks can be deceiving.
I have a `73 914-2.0 which is/was fully stock, but a slightly bored/honed rebuilt engine which achieved 126 mph on a winding & DOWNHILL stretch of an unnamed Interstate out West, and repeated on several trips through there. On the flat, she could regularly muster 110-115 mph on the flat, possibly due to using the adjustable front strut setting to lower the front end about 1/2", which probably improved the slip stream some, as well as making it a perfect 50:50 weight balance (most shops can set this, or look it up in the manuals).
That was in the late `70's, back when the car was running. It's been stored since `85 due to body damage & family needs (i.e.: money tight & we needed a bigger car!), and it still awaits repair/restoration (it's a clean & rust-free SoCal car). I'm now looking for a cheap parts car to start that process (would've loved to be there when the guy found two non-runners!), and looking forward to getting her back on the road, as is my 20 year old son. Ergo, my coming across this 914 blog today.
Several places can do quality "built" 914-4 engines - all of the 1.7, 1.8 & 2.0 L sizes, but 2.0 works best. They'll typically bore & stroke, re-piston, cam, crank & valve, etc. the engine, anywhere from 2.0 (for the 1.7 & 1.8's) up to 2.5 or 2.6L. This usually gets you 100+ hp at the smaller displacement, up to 140 hp or better at the larger, and more if it's a non-street legal racing engine. So calculate out the expected top speed using the tranny's gearing information, and I'm sure it'll make or beat 145 mph!
The main things you need to decide are your budget ($4-5k to $10-15k +++ depending on dyno-testing, blueprinting, etc.), and how you want to drive it. Apparently, the bigger the jump in power & displacement, the rougher & hotter the running of the new engine. So if you want a street legal and daily weekender or long distance drivable 914, they recommend stick with a more modest jump in the 110-125 hp range. Otherwise you'll be stopping every 100 miles or so, according to the owner of FAT below.
The 2 places I've come across for reliable rebuilds of "built-up" 914 engines are AutoAtlanta.com in Marietta, GA (e-mail George for info., he/they are 914 specialists) ; and FAT Performance in Orange, CA (also on-line, but don't have the owner's name & web off-hand). FAT specializes in building racing VW, 914 & Datsun (now Nissan for the younger crowd) engines - several of which have powered Baja 1000 winners. They also "build" hot engines for the street variety as well.
Hope that all gets your juices flowing!
I have a 68 VW bug with a 1676 two-B curb stock tranny, and at 5500 rpm it's doing 110mph. 15" 165 tires, so a 914 2.0 put together right, with a 5-speed has to go faster.
I own two 914's myself, both 1973, and guess I need to write up a survey someday soon. One is a 2.0L with dual 44 Webers. Though I'll never choose to get it that fast, once I got the carbs balanced, I had to agree with my neighbor. He used to race one professionally back in the 70's, and has a wall full of trophies to prove it. He says 155mph happens a bit after redline, which agrees with the what you get from the transmission specs.