9th Nov 2006, 13:03

Hey I have had exactly the same problem, had the throttle body changed and throttle sensor and still there is a problem. It cuts out randomly and the pre heat and electronic light comes on. Can you tell me exactly what the after relay supply is?

10th Jan 2007, 08:05

I have clio model 2000 with motor MK4 of 16 valves. The problem is that the motor does not regulate specially even (vibrates) in realenti and at low and constant speeds.


Guillermo Creus.

17th Jan 2007, 12:02

I have been struggling to find out what is wrong with my clio, 1.2 sport, the exact same thing happens as stated in the previous comments. The car just decides to cut out and only re-starts after numerous tries.

31st Mar 2007, 12:44

My car does it too. The electrics have cut out twice. Both times the breakdown people were unable to fix it as the light had gone off by the time they'd got there. I've also had a problem with the catch on my bonnet meaning that I've now got a smashed windscreen and damaged bonnet and roof.

17th Oct 2007, 23:04

I have a 2001 Y reg 1.4 Clio Privilege. I really like it, although it is not built for tall people. It's quite nippy and will pull away quite happily, does around 40mpg combined. Having said this for the past 2 years it cuts out when taken out of gear periodically. You have to start it, rev it slightly then let it 'fix itself'. Very annoying, I can't just start it and go, have to wait til its happy. It also goes thru times of not starting, just turning over. Usually leaving it for 5 minutes does the trick then the gentle start fiasco. This is annoying, but I have lived with it. It cost a bit to put it thru its third MOT, steering arm bushes due to my enthusiastic driving. I replaced the timing belt at 49000 to be safe, my water pump virtually disintegrated at 59000, had to be towed to garage and cost £250, would have been more than double at renault. Now only a week later I locked it and it beeped at me as if a door was open. This carried on continuously and it can't be locked with the key, apparently normal for clios. I phoned AA who came out to tell me the alarm thing is behind wiper motor and such like and will cost something like 3 - 400 to fix. All for a beep!! Now I have to lock the car with keys turned in ignition, then get our and manually lock the drivers door. So no, it has to go, take my advice buy a golf or an Audi, they make it round the clock and then some.

23rd May 2008, 13:48

I have a Y reg Renault Clio Privilege. It's been to the dealers on many occasions for the 'electrical fault' that it has. They too said nothing could be done unless the light was on when I took it in, which I then did, and still they couldn't fix it!!! It has cost around £600 so far as they've changed bits here and there, I am confused that with a diagnostic reset the car is fixed for 3 months before it goes wrong again. I have literally had two near fatal crashes in the car, the dealers didn't care. I can't sell it as I'm concerned someone would have a serious accident. I can honestly say the dealers are useless and don't have a clue in this case.

20th Jun 2008, 10:15

Update on my comment as above. The car went seriously wrong again causing it to accelerate forward of its own accord; I was mm away from smashing into the car in front at a roundabout had I not reacted quickly. Again, the car went into the Renault dealer, and they kept it for a whole week, but said nothing could be done and charged me £76 for the mechanic to drive MY car to and from work every day. I'm furious, and was told on the phone, "oh well, you were going to sell the car anyway"; well, thanks for that! I won't sell the car, as I'm an honest person and would fear someone else might get seriously injured.

8th Apr 2009, 10:48

When I had this problem with the engine management light coming on and the the car losing power, I found I needed to clean the TDC (Top Dead Centre) sensor, grease on the sensor was the problem, well worth a try.

Other quirks with the car I NEED to wait for the SERV light to go out before starting the engine (no it's not a diesel) don't know why, can only assume the on board computer is loading all the settings, car's been starting better since I started doing this.

Oh and the hazard warning light switch broke after 5 years, says a lot about the build quality if a part that sees almost no wear can fail.