What caused the "Revs increase causing vibrations and launches the car at high speeds in difficult situations."?? Please add a response to this as another comment, as I have a similar problem with a 111 recently bought.
I own an M reg 1.1 model of this car, and I've had it for about 3 years, and its mileage is now an astronomical 140,000. I've not had any major problems with it apart from simple little things I could fix myself. Before this car, I had 'lovely' little Fiesta, which broke down constantly. So I'd like to thank Rover for making such a good little car which is still running well. Maybe yours was just a one off poor car - my advice is try another!!!
I myself own a Rover Kensington 100. It is N reg and has done 12,000 miles. I bought it 2 months ago. I am disappointed with the fact that it cannot take speed bumps over 20 mph, and has a bad flat spot in 2nd gear. Also I am disappointed with the fact that it is so basic. I mean, where's the cigarette lighter or the rev counter.
The performance is also pathetic when you have more than two people in the car. However, it is pretty nippy off the mark, and I have surprised a couple of boy racers. I think that it is a good looking car, and with a bit of tarting up it could look eye catching. It is an ideal first car though for an 18 year old. I wouldn't want to be in it if it crashed though!
I've got one of these cars - see the 1996 111 GSi review on these pages...
If your alloy wheels are after-market jobs, then you can't really blame their poor quality on Rover. My GSi has factory alloys, and while they haven't corroded, the locking wheel-nuts are badly designed and the wheel centre-caps disappear expensively a bit too often. If you're buying one of these, go for steel wheels. Also avoid the 111 GSi, because the 111 SLi is the same car without the wood dash and alloys, but is insurance group 3 instead of 4.
For the person with the N reg Kensington... If you try to take speed bumps at more than 20mph you're a bit of a loony. Not good for any car (though for the record my 111 seems to ignore speed bumps above a certain speed, probably due to the Hydragas suspension).
I have no sympathy for anyone who complains that their car is basic. If you want a car with a cigarette lighter or a rev counter, I have a simple solution - go out and BUY ONE! If these features are important to you you should have checked before buying your 100. Incidentally, both can be retro-fitted fairly easily.
Regarding the over-revving thing - my 111 did this dramatically on a trip from Northern Ireland to Cambridge (off to Uni). Started randomly revving, Herbie-style and going to full revs occasionally. On getting it back to the dealer, it needed a new ECU (about £300 I think). Your problems sound a bit sporadic though - mine made the car virtually undriveable, so maybe it's a different problem. Apparently it happens because of a small component in the middle of the ECU which fails regularly. Recent model 200s and 25s have this component mounted externally, where it can be replaced easily for a fiver...
Looks like your hydrogas suspension needs pumping up (about £15 to £25)
Found reveiws and comments informative. I have a rover Kensington 1995 about 18 months, very useful for work and economical to run. However major problems with, road humps which have mushroomed and seem to be everywhere. Always take these with care, but recently resulted in major damage to radial arm and ball&socket joint £550 repairs. Rust now appearing over wheel arch. 40,000 miles on the clock.I'm 2nd owner,35000 when bought, any advice or info much appreciated.
I currently own a 1998 Rover 114GSi. It has covered 80,000 miles and has been serviced by the supplying Rover dealer. I have had to replace both the main coolant radiator and the heater matrix. This cost £444. The clutch needs replacing and this will cost about £320. Two of the alloy wheels are not airtight and replacements will cost £145 each. There is a prolific rain water leak into the drivers foot well. At all times when the heater is in use there is a strange smell. The car goes well and returns about 45mpg. The engine has an oil leak which eventually fouls the spark plugs. I have replaced one gasket, but to fix the leak the the cam carrier will have to be removed and I am afraid to ask what this will cost. In all it is a good car, but I am afraid the maintenance costs will seal its fate.
I learnt to drive in 1990 with a well known driving school which had (at the time) equipped themselves with Rover Metros.
As with most Rover products, the advertising was pitched around the superior quality of the vehicles when compared with things like Novas, Fiestas or Peugeot 205's.
Generally, the quality side of these cars was considered by the instructors to be very superficial. All had pretty dismal internal fit and finish, and most had one or more major faults such as uneven braking, duff wheel bearings, uneven tyre wear and fluid leaks. They were also considered to be uncomfortable and cramped, and totally unsuitable for anyone over 6' tall.
When the Vauxhall Corsa came out four years later the fleet of Metros got dumped pretty much overnight.
I have a '95 114 SLi automatic which lurches forwards, revs increasing, when drive is engaged. Also when decelerating the revs stay high and is difficult to stop effectively. Drive must be disengaged when stationary at lights, junctions etc to prevent lurching. Dangerous and annoying. Is the ECU at fault?
Also there appears to be no obvious way to turn the revs down on the carb.
The metros of old were robust, simple-to-work-on, fantastic little cars. I have had three of them and loved them. This rover effort is an appallingly bad 'improved' version that will be off to the scrapyard at the next MOT.
I have just bought a 95 kensington and agree I thought that the back of my car was raised up. Also I find when driving its like sometimes the car is breaking for me and the accelerator pushes itself in! anybody else have this problem?
No, the information regards you changing all the locks is wrong. You will need to contact an auto locksmith, who for a serious amount of cash, £100+, will reprogram a new key for you using the diagnostic connection on the car. There are two prices; one for a standard key, and one for a remote key. Both are different prices.
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