1st Feb 2010, 20:55

A few years back I bought a '93 Saturn for $900. I currently have about 206,000 miles on the car. There are numerous little problems. It uses some oil, coolant keeps disappearing from the system so I've only been adding straight tap water (no coolant) to keep cost down. A clutch master cylinder cost me around $450 to replace at the Saturn dealer.

Other than that, the car keeps on running and getting me around. I've had it on a couple long trips and 20+ trips to Tahoe and back, as well as the ocean. I live in Sacramento. I'll drive it til it quits.

6th Jan 2011, 20:06

Well I am the first to post in 2011, maybe I am the only one left with a running 1993 Saturn. I don't know what is wrong with the engine, but it sounds like it is bad, and it takes at least one full mile before it starts running normal. I have to use both feet to keep it running, and it's at about 175000 miles. I think the valves leak oil into the cylinders, causing the oil to be burned off, and causing it to ride VERY rough. I don't know though.

Also, there is now a small rattling if I hit the gas too hard, making me think that something is loose in there, and if I am not careful with the gas pedal, the engine will blow. How much is it to have the engine rebuilt?

18th May 2011, 00:50

I just purchased a 1993 SW2 for $600, manual trans., 177000 miles on it. It ran and drove so well on the test drive, I couldn't say no. It may run better than any car I've owned.

First, I had to drain about 3 quarts excess oil. Very scary, don't know how someone could do that, it was the first thing I looked at when I opened the hood. It still runs, so it must be the right dipstick. LOL.

The temp gauge says it runs cool; bottom to 1/4 line, but heater blows plenty warm. At idle the temp creeps up sometimes to half or a little more. I'm not a risk taker with higher engine temps. If it reads low and the heater is hot, that is a good stopping point. I plan to bypass power directly to the fan, and install a toggle switch ASAP. I may have control issues, but I like this car and would like to get at least 50000 more miles out of it.

I have read every comment here, and probably would not have bought it seeing all the problems. I did see positive stuff on other sites before I bought it, so I thought I made an informed decision. If I have any major breakdowns or nagging mechanical issues, this car will go straight to the junk yard. I can usually shop carefully enough to find a good running car for much less than most people spend on repairs. I apologize to my mechanic, he is a good man, but totally understands and agrees with me. Some cars just ain't worth fixin!

TOM T Cle Elum Wa.

24th Sep 2012, 16:19

Find the fuse box, and it's usually the box type fuse... normally black and square. If that doesn't fix it, I don't know? Mine does the same thing. Fine while driving until you stop at a red light, but after the red light, it cools back down like the fresh air works as a fan. Wonder what the SL2 stands for? Google won't tell me... LOL.

29th Jan 2016, 06:49

I had the same problem with my seat belt motor on my driver's side draining my battery - an easy fix. Go to your inside fuse box, I believe it's #16. Pull the fuse and cut the power to the motor. Make sure you do that when the seat belt is back; that way you can still use it manually.