1999 Toyota Camry LE from North America - Comments

I have a 99 Toyota Camry and the power window on the driver's side wasn't working consistently so they replaced the window's motor. After I left the car dealer I noticed the locks on the inside wouldn't work properly using the driver's control button so they took the door panel off again and fixed the wires they had improperly connected. Now I've noticed that both outside door locks will not turn to the left. Does anyone know if this could be related to what they did previously? Could it be a wiring issue? Any information you can give me would be very much appreciated.

I have a 99 Camry at 58,000 miles, bought it brand new 12/98. I had the check engine light go on a week ago. I went to the dealer and $80 later I was told my transmission has to be changed ($3,700) - Code PO750 - solenoid A malfunction and metal pieces in the transmission fluid. I never changed the transmission fluid; I drive primarily 35-45 mph to work and that's it. The dealer never told me the possible reasons for the malfunction, and, sure enough, my 6yrs/100,000 warranty has expired 12/2004. I refused to change the transmission and drove the car to work today - engine light went off. Could the computer produce a wrong code? Could it be the gelling problem I keep reading about? Can't find anybody with this solenoid problem. Any input will be appreciated!

I have a 99 Camry XLE that has had the check engine light come on numerous times since purchasing it 9/98. Like most other comments I was told by the dealer that the gas cap was not tight. I think this is just a flaw with the car. My latest problem is with white smoke at start up. I was told not to worry about it; but can't help, but worry after my oil change this morning. Jiffy Lube just told me that my oil has been leaking because they didn't have much to come out. I have not noticed any leaks on the garage floor. Does this sound like the oil sludge mentioned? How do I go about cleaning out sludge if this is the case. Please offer any comments or suggestions.

People,

Stop, just let the engine light stay on and don't worry about it. My 1999 LE Camry did the same thing and I ignored it, later it just went out. The car just keeps running, ignore it.

I own a 1999 Camry LE...108K miles.

Several weeks ago, the Check Engine light (CEL) came on. I deleted the light now several times by removing the 15a fuse.

But the CEL keeps going on again after driving ~30 miles or so.

I finally did the AutoZone code check... got P0446..."Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Malfunction".

I don't know what this means in terms of what parts need replacing... however the car runs fine.

I bought a 1999 Toyota Camry with 75,000 miles in 2002. I was told it was all highway miles, it had been very carefully maintained, etc. I was HAPPY, because I've always gotten 150-200,000 miles from my cars, and Toyota is highly regarded. I changed the oil every 3,000 miles---maybe once in a while I let it go to 4,000 but mostly every 3,000.

It now (June, 2005) has about 120,000 miles on it. Last week I took a 1800 miles highway trip (70+ miles per hour) and towards the end, the engine started making strange sounds. The dealer says that the engine is COMPLETELY BLOWN...destroyed. Says that there is almost no oil in it and that the engine bearings are just banging around. Now maybe I should have given it another oil check before leaving on the trip, but on the other hand, I had every reason not to believe that it would run out of oil, or whatever happened, so quickly. They are quoting me $3800 for a used engine (including labor). I guess if I can get some local guy to do it for 2,000 dollars, it might be worth it, but otherwise... and I thought that Toyotas were reliable cars... anyone got any comments or ideas?

Well like many of the earlier posts, I too am having the Check Engine Light (P0446) issue on my 98 V6 Camry. My question is this: Has anyone found that after purchasing the dealer recommended $500 plus Charcoal Canister, that their problem is solved? Thanks.

I bought a 1999 4 cylinder Camry LE new. I don't do much highway driving so my car has less than 24,000 miles on it. I let my son take "the good car" (mine) for a six hour trip to a wedding last week since I had not yet had any problems with it and considered it quite reliable. An hour into his trip the check engine light came on with the car coming to a slow stop, having to be towed. I am told by the mechanic that the timing belt is ripped to shreds and he has never seen this before. I still don't have all the results back as to what caused this. It is my understanding that these timing belts should last 60,000 miles. Anyone else have this experience?

I have the same problem as everyone above. Toyota Camry 99 LE with 220,000k miles. My Check Engine Light is on. I took the car to the dealership and was told it could be gas cap, air hose assembly or VSV canister. Gas cap was fine, air hose assembly was changed for $ 225.00, but didn't resolve the problem.Now, the dealer wants to replace the canister at $414.00. Does anyone know what the real fix is for this problem?

OK I have heard a lot of good about camry's and my sister has owned 3 and has been very happy with all, will never change.I'm getting ready to (or least I thought until I read all these reviews) purchase a 99 camry, does anyone have anything positive to say about this car???its either this or a ford explorer vs jeep grand cherokee.. any insight is appreciated.

I purchased my 99 Toyota Camry Solara SE in October of 2005. I noticed about a month after driving the vehicle it sounded like the tires were loose... kind of hard to explain. It was pretty subtle at first. Well it is now 2006 and when I drive along a straight away and hit anything from a small pebble in the road, it sounds like my wheels are about to fall off! Also my check engine light came on about 6 months ago. I let it go because I barely drive the car. Had it put on a machine, and lo and behold... P0446. My car had exactly 100,000 miles when I purchased it, and the previous owner said that car had no problems. I have all the records so, I figure the car was doing good up until 100,000. I had an 1990 Acura Integra with over 300,000 miles when I finally sold it (yes someone purchased it!), and believe me when I tell you, I only had normal wear and tear ie.. brakes, tires, etc... this suspension problem and Vapor Sensor problem is major and way more than I bargained for.. Like most of you, I look for reliability when it comes to a vehicle.

I purchased my 99 Toyota Camry Solara SE in October of 2005. I noticed about a month after driving the vehicle it sounded like the tires were loose... kind of hard to explain. It was pretty subtle at first. Well it is now 2006 and when I drive along a straight away and hit anything from a small pebble in the road, it sounds like my wheels are about to fall off! Also my check engine light came on about 6 months ago. I let it go because I barely drive the car. Had it put on a machine and long and behold... P0446. My car had exactly 100,000 miles when I purchased it, and the previous owner said that car had no problems. I have all the records so, I figure the car was doing good up until 100,000. I had an 1990 Acura Integra with over 300,000 miles when I finally sold it (yes someone purchased it!), and believe me when I tell you, I only had normal wear and tear ie.. brakes, tires, etc... this suspension problem and Vapor Sensor problem is major and way more than I bargained for.. Like most of you, I look for reliability when it comes to a vehicle.

I have a 98 camry with a body kit and racing wheels and now the light is on and I'm tryn to find out the problem. its says it the egr valve, but it runs good what should I do?

Mine is having the exact same issue. It runs just fine! Autozone said it was the EGR, but wasn't sure if it was the EGR valve or the EGR Modulator. I was told that you can take the modulator off and clean the filters in it. I have to be checked for emissions today and I am not sure what will happen.

1999 Camry bought in 2002 with 34,000 miles. Worst car I've ever owned. It has always made that strong sulfur smell after any type of acceleration up to normal cruise speed. The car has also always bottomed out over any type of speed bump. Our family weighs 130, 118 and 38 lbs so we're overloading this car. At 40,000 miles the front suspension started to make the dreaded knocking sounds. At 42,000 miles the check engine light came on and the door locks quit working. I tried the "tighten the gas cap, etc," but shortly thereafter the engine started bucking rapidly at highway speed. The dealership said the computer code indicated an oxygen sensor replacement ($215). Then they said, "lets try a two trip logic test." "We'll reset the oxygen sensor code (but not replace the sensor) and then change the plugs and wires first ($500) then see if the check engine like comes back on." I think that "two trip logic test" was testing me to see if I would make two trips to the dealership. I said, I thought the plugs were supposed to last 100,000 miles and the dealership said they should be changed at 60,000 and "you're real close now". Hmm, I only had 42,000 miles. Not close enough for me. I said I only have 42,000 miles and he said, "I guess you're right." So, the O2 sensor was fixed ($215) and the front suspension mounting bushings ($240) and the electric door locks ($180), except they couldn't make the right rear lock work. At 47,000 the engine made a terrible rattling noise and lacked power. I took it to a national "non Toyota" service center and they said the timing belt failed. These belts are really designed to last 100,000 miles, but are scheduled for a change at 60,000 for good measure. Too bad I only got 47,000 miles out of mine. While they were in there I had the water pump replaced too. I've never owned a car that had to have a front end alignment after chewing up the inside of the front tires. This one needed it. Hmmm. Maybe the dealership should have realigned the front end after replacing the front suspension bushings? At 61,000 miles the car developed a huge oil leak. I mean about 1/2 quart would spill out at start up, but then not leak after it warmed up. My favorite "non Toyota" service center closed so I had to take the car to a different national brand "non Toyota" service center. They at first said, "you need a new oil pump seal and that's part of a timing belt replacement. ($800) " I told then I already had a timing belt replacement and instead they recommended a pcv valve and valve cover replacement ($250). That fixed that problem. Now at 70,000 miles I get the blue smoke of burned oil at startup from the exhaust. That's probably bad valve seals. I've never had this much trouble from a car, even the American cars I've owned that we're rated "much worse than average" by that "leading consumer magazine". I'm thinking of trading this Toyota in for a honda.