I have owned my 1991 Volvo 940 Turbo station wagon for five years. Much money has been spent on repairs due to general wear and tear (sunroof motor, paint job, shocks, computer chip, a/c. It has 225,000 miles and still has the original transmission. One bothersome problem that no mechanic could diagnose for years was my car stalling. It turned out that a wire in the fusebox was loose. My car, like other Volvos, suffers from wiring problems. I don't believe that they were built to function in hot climates. My speedometer needle acts up and it would be a major cost to replace. The car is roomy, makes sharp turns easily and is a pleasure to drive on the highway. Older Volvos are not known for fuel efficiency and mine is no exception. One big drawback is that it's expensive to fill the car with premium gas. But despite its age the car is in good shape and I would not want to trade up to a new Volvo.
I have a 93 940 Turbo Wagon. The car is fantastic. If you have one, I highly recommend replacing the shocks and sway bars with the IPD bars and high-end Bilstein shocks. The Cherry Turbo chassis braces make a huge difference as well, as does replacing the front bushings after about 150,000 miles. The car feels and handles better than new. Always let the turbo cool after driving and it'll last. Driven properly, the engine remains smooth, powerful and efficient (26mpg highway, 23 city). The transmission is a jewel for a 4 speed and has shift points at the right times. The car is spacious and the fold-flat seats are great. The seats themselves are very comfortable. I also installed a 400 Watt, 5-channel amp and have component speakers front and rear and a 12" sub box custom made for the trunk floor. It's invisible and it sounds beautiful. Because the car takes after-market head units (not like most new cars) you can get one with GPS, Aux input and phone-in for nothing. In short, I have a great handling, large, efficient and luxurious car with all the amentiites I could ever want in a low-profile, lowlowlow insurance car that I street park in NYC. I dread the thought of replacing this car since there's nothing else like it on the road.
I've had numerous Volvos going back 20 years, and while they're all heavy and solid, this "new" 1991 940 turbo is by far the fastest I've had.
Like someone else noted, make sure you cool the engine down for a bit before shutting down, and it's always a plus to run synthetic oil through the engine. The "red block " engine will last a lifetime if cared for properly. In my opinion, since these RWD's are getting older so an owner really has to be involved with the car. In my opinion, the turbo is not a "plug and play" car. By this I mean that this type of car should be pursued by an enthusiast because it will need attention and care. If you want a Volvo strictly for the safety, take a look at a non-turbo model as they will ultimately be less expensive. Again, stay away from the GLE models as they have an interference engine which will experience catastrophic failure if the timing belt breaks. Turbos naturally consume more oil due to the turbo eating it.
Much of the interior plastic trim can become brittle and break. Go easy with it.
All said, if you are into rear wheel drive cars, and the idea of either spending money or doing maintenance yourself is acceptable, the 940 turbo is an exceptional vehicle.
I just bought my 940 turbo sedan with 223K and it has a good history which is critical, for $1500, and I didn't blink. I plan to put another 100K on it and see where it goes from there.
Hey Guys I have a 91' 940 Turbo as well, The only problems I have with the car are the sunroof and air conditioning, besides the regular wear and tear. Does anyone know the engine specs on the car? Or anywhere I could get them?
I am wondering if anybody knows the exact model of turbo put into the 1991 940 Turbo? It is my current car. My first was a 1974 164e. Lasted, but took some money to keep running, then again, I only paid 300$.
So far the 940 turbo is much more fun to drive than my last 3 Subaru Legacies. My last Subaru got an engine block crack at 170,000 miles/8 years... so I went back to Volvo. This car forward, cash on the table, no loans, so I OWN IT. Keep rolling.
My comment goes to the person about the 91 turbo. It will be a b200ft turbo. I have got the same car, I am putting a b230ft turbo from a 93 Volvo on, a lot quicker and better.
My sister gave me a 1991 940 Turbo Volvo Station Wagon. It has 168,000 and is the best car I have ever owned. However, today the rear wiper quit and the fan or AC seems to be a problem. The red light around the AC button went off (I had the AC off) and the light will not come on now. The car seems hot on the inside so I know something is up. I've only had it about 3 months.
Any suggestions that could help would be appreciated.
Hi, I have a 91 940 turbo which I am selling, which is in almost new condition inside and out, just MOTed in September. It's half leather, but when I went to start it the other day, it would not start, but with a tow it did, then the next morning it started, then the next day it wouldn't, then towed again and it started. Has anyone got any ideas? EMAIL ME ON LBVALETING@HOTMAIL.COM THANKS.¦)
Wow, lots of Volvo fans, as am I. Front seat problem. Seems that it has just stopped functioning. Fuse checks out but still no go. Any suggestions?
I have a 92 Volvo 940 GL. I am the second owner and I bought the car when it had 87K miles in 2000. The original owner was a retired engineer from Lockheed (every evening, his wife says, he was cleaning the engine compartment and the rest of the car. I can attest to that. When I bought the car and opened the hood... it was like looking at a new car engine compartment... everything sparkled!) The MSRP (yes the engineer kept that document) stated the car had heated leather seats, alloy wheels and a limited slip rear end!
During the 10 years I've had it, I've had a blown head gasket. Was told it should have been torqued down to prevent it, but it wasn't. I was not expensive to fix.
Broken exhaust pipe going into the catalytic converter, I had it welded up, problem fixed.
Warped rotors, my fault, by not replacing brake pads.
AC/Heater module in the dash was the most expensive to replace; $500.
Engine mounts were the next issue, replaced them.
What else? Minor things like some unknown wire going to the tranny that rubbed against the frame that caused the engine to stall! The shop I was having this work done, was run by an engineer who worked for Volvo, and established a Volvo Repair Business in California, in Santa Clara County. What a great company he had! He only worked on Volvo's, no Saab's. And I think that is very telling in what he did. He recommended Amsoil synthetic oil for the engine, transmission, and rear end. After all the work he did on my Volvo (everything I mentioned previously), I did the math, and I was ahead of the game of going in and buying a new Volvo.
Now it is ten years later. I am in Idaho, I have a good shop that works on Volvo's here. My big problem with my Volvo is an intermittent problem of not shifting out of third gear. IPD does give a solution, it's not that pricey, so I'll buy the parts and have my guy put them in.
After that I'll have a 92 940 GL, which runs good, it's got 137K miles on it now, that will take me through another ten years. And I've saved up more than enough money to buy a 940 Volvo Turbo (station wagon) when I find it, and fix it up to be a sweet running street vehicle.
Volvo's are like a woman, you fix them, and they give you what you want... a good running car... no matter how many times you fix them... you get a good running car.
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