7th Jul 2009, 15:15

I bought a 1999 S80 T6 nearly 2 years ago and it has been a nightmare since then. Most recently it started stalling while my husband was on his 60 mile commute to and from work. Finding someone (other than a dealership) who will work on it has been a huge pain. We've been told it's the throttle position sensor, which was under warranty, but that expired in January. UGH! We are at our wit's end with this car. Will never buy a volvo again. Lesson learned.

26th Dec 2009, 18:43

I just picked up a 99 S80 with 225k miles. It runs and rides great, and has never had engine or trans replaced.. it does however need a throttle body replacement right now, and had a hard starting issue (a common issue with the power cable for the starter to close to a sensor easy fix). Other than regular stuff you should expect with any car, it hasn't had any issues.. I purchased from the original owner also...

14th Mar 2010, 19:28

2000 S80 T6 stalling problems; most likely the electronic throttle module. Is there any way to fix these, or do you have to buy new. Also ABS light on all the time.

24th May 2010, 08:35

I have an S80 T6 2000 model Volvo and have had nothing but trouble with the fuel system and throttle body. Every mechanic gives a different diagnosis after a computer diagnosis, as the computer throws different codes every time it breaks down, but I still have the same stalling problem. Am currently getting a new ECM and throttle body module $1600 from the Volvo dealership. Keep clear of the S80; you will be insulted at the cost of repairs.

15th Jul 2010, 13:34

I bought a used S80 T6 with 173,000 kilometers on it a year ago when I blew the engine in my 1999 Ford Explorer. I thought I got a good deal for $6200.00 but ended up spending over $4000 to fix struts, suspension, alignment problems (which ruined the front tires - $500.00).

It ran well for a while, but a few months ago it started surging on the highway like the fuel flow was being interrupted. From reading these reviews, I think it might be the throttle body or the throttle sensor. Whatever it is it's not worth spending any more money on this car.

I found a used engine for the Ford and had it installed (total cost $1600), and now it runs better than the Volvo. I looked up the trade in value of the Volvo and it's only $2000.00. I don't think I can sell this car and it's almost worthless as a trade in.

A very costly mistake for me buying this piece of crap. Beware.

27th Aug 2010, 14:19

I got a 2000 S80 Volvo with 170000 miles on it cheap, $3500.00, good looking car, very comfortable and fun to drive.

After a few months, I drove it to the shore, got almost 200 miles from home, and blew a head gasket. Had it towed back home, $450.00, spent $1000.00 in parts at discount pricing, and another $400.00 in labor (it's a tough job and very detailed). Also replaced water pump and timing belt while we were that far into the motor. Had the head shaved, etc... now I had to replace an O2 sensor, did that now. It has a code for the mass air flow sensor

When will it end? A good friend of mine who has a few Volvo's told me I should have done my home work before I bought the 2000 S80, Ford took over Volvo that year... So... I am going to keep this car running and run it till it will not go anymore. Lesson learned... no more Volvos...

5th Oct 2010, 21:49

I have been driving Volvo S80 2000 2.9L. It's full of problems, and one by one, new problems pop up. When I take it to the dealer for repair, immediately the next day there is a new problem in most cases, except one dealer who did not create new problems. Dealer always says it's a new problem.

Last time I had battery failure, and the dealer told me it's an alternator problem. I did not believe him, and took it to another mechanic who says the battery is bad. I took back to the dealer, and he says he will replace the battery. I've got to pay for it, and if it's bad, he will refund the battery cost. The dealer finally paid me the cost of the battery.. The sheer lies these dealers say.

This time I had an instance replacing the right ball joint, brake pads, right motor mount etc.. Just the next day, the check engine light started turning on and off, and the engine started vibrating. As expected, the dealer says it's an unrelated problem, and I've got to pay to do a diagnostic. I feel the dealer created this problem to make extra money. Hard to confirm, but I think they are not ethical.