4th Oct 2010, 13:21

I have a 2000 Volvo V70 XC wagon. Very comfortable ride, somewhat slow acceleration. Third owner, bought about a year ago from my brother, who'd bought it used from a dealer when it was two or three years old.

One handy tip: ABS modules are fairly easy to take out yourself and inexpensive to have repaired (or, if you're comfortable with soldering electronics, to repair yourself):


I took mine out a couple of weeks ago, sent it to a place called Module Masters in Idaho, they had it back to me in 10 days and it works fine. Charged me $100 plus shipping, plus $5 for a new set of bolts for the module (mine were looking worn):


I still have the "check engine" light on, but since it first came on after I refueled, I'm going to try screwing the cap in real tight and then doing the trip-odometer reset trick:


14th Dec 2010, 20:15

I purchased a 1998 XCV70 three weeks ago for 2200.00. 177,000 miles on the car and senior owned. The seller stated he was a Volvo nut and did all his own work.

I knew it only needed wiper blades and one front tire after spending a lot of time checking the car out.

I bought the car. Got my plates and insurance.

On the ride home, the front end started to make noise (right front hub bearing). In the 12 mile ride home, the check engine light came on and the ABS and the Trac light. The heater core was giving off that wonderful smell 30 minutes later.

The ignition key has been stuck in the lock since the ride home.

The tire shop did tires, new control arms, ball joints and tie rod ends, and the wheel bearing.

I have spent over $2000.00 and the car won't make it thru inspection P0445 - J pipe is leaking in the evaporation canister.

I have only driven the car 500 miles, and my concrete driveway looks like an old Harley is parked there. There is oil in several spots on the ground. The axle seals leak, and it drips motor oil from the filter.

Topping it if off today - I had the other front bearing done, because there was still play in the wheel.

The mechanic - feeling pity for my troubles - came to my home, saving me hundreds of dollars in shop fees.

He jacked up the car and changed the bearing in no time flat.

Now the car cranks and does not start...

He thinks the security system shut the ignition down...

Got any ideas? Email me sonofadocker at yahoo dot com.

7th Mar 2011, 05:23

Buy it... Just drive it... It will keep running if you change the oils and timing belt. Keep up on the safety and you can drive these cars until you are sick of them. Don't sweat on the small stuff like creaks and rattles from the interior (a tube of silicone does wonders for those things). Buy parts on Ebay and have any mechanic put them on (or yourself). You can save thousands and have reliable transportation.

7th Apr 2011, 10:22

I owned a 1999 Volvo XC70. It was driven very little in city traffic, yet at 20000km the rear brakes had to be replaced. These were not a warranty item so it cost me $700.00 in 1999!

It's a pity that the car was such a piece of junk because it was a dream to drive, was quick, comfortable, and quiet. I am not convinced that all Volvos are junk, but just about so. When I would complain in the service department waiting room, there would be a chorus of complaints that followed mine.

In the first 10,000km the CD player started skipping tracks and after a protracted battle the dealer replaced it (it was a $2,500.00 option). The remote mirror control stopped working, the rear window leaked (it took three visits to get that fixed). Best of all, when the dealer installed the block heater, the mechanic forgot to reconnect an oil return line from the turbo unit, so oil was being sprayed on the manifold making it smoke like a car with bad rings and valves.

I owned the car for five years and finally gave it up because the cost of repairs was appalling. The rear brakes had to be replaced every 20000km and when I spoke with Volvo Canada they explained that the braking system applied more braking on the rear wheels to keep the car from nose diving when the brakes are applied. Fine, but driving the car mostly outside the city, I don't understand why it ate brakes.

During that time I owned a 1994 Subaru Loyale for my business and it had 200,000km and I had the brakes replaced only once. And the little Subaru was driven extensively in the city. Plus it never leaked, the $200.00 Pioneer stereo/CD player worked flawlessly.

All this to say, I bought a Subaru Outback when I dumped the Volvo in 2004 and have owned Subarus ever since.

13th Apr 2011, 16:15

I bought a 1999 Volvo V70 XC from a "reputable" dealership in December of 2010. The dealership said it had a 150pt inspection, certified, I saw the carfax and it looked fine. The car looked immaculate inside and out, and only had 76K miles.

Three days later I was stranded on the highway. I took the car back to the dealership, and they said it needed a transmission flush. I did that, and then it died again a few days later. Took it back again, and then they said it needed a new transmission. $4,000 later, drove it home and check engine light came on again. Took it back in, and had the alternator and new battery put in. A day later, engine light is on again. Took it back, and now it needs oxygen sensor and heater core. I'm looking at $700 to fix that.

I'm beyond frustrated with this car. I don't know how I'm going to sell it when the engine light is on. This is my first Volvo, and I've always heard nothing but praise on these cars. I guess I've done my homework a little too late. I'll never buy a Volvo again. I'm just too weary and worn out.

14th Apr 2011, 09:24

Sounds like a dodgy dealer to me rather than a dodgy car... All those things within a few miles! No one has that luck!