Comments: 1-15, 16-17
I have the 4 seasons package and it feels like there is no heat on the front passenger side.
At 40K miles check Engine light came on. Paid $100 to find out I needed a $10 gas cap.
At 82K miles car had trouble accelerating. It would hesitate. The computer lost its program, (how does that happen?) idle air control stopped working, carbon built up in engine and host of other things happened. They could not tell me what caused this. While this was happening the check engine light never came once. When I inquired of Mazda how to prevent this from happening, because according the service program I did not miss anything, they said there was nothing I could have done to prevent this from happening. "These things just happen sometimes." So I paid the $1500 and fixed the car.
10 Days later the car shuts off on the interstate while doing 75mph. After I tow it to the dealership, I find out some honey-comb thing in the precatalytic converter crumbled up and flew into the catalytic converter. $2100 to repair.
I have even not hit 100K miles when I need to have a "major" service on it. i.e. timing belts and hoses.
The middle bucket seat are not comfortable for adults. Small children are OK, but I can only take about 2 hours siting back there.
I was really excited about it when I first got it... Even reccommended it to friends. 4 friends bought them.
But right now I just want to get rid of it and keep my 11yr old Honda.
I have spent more on service and repair for this Mazda MPV in the 3 years that I have owned than I have spent on my 11 year old Honda Civic. Yes, it is a bigger car an more expensive just by nature, but my catalytic converter is operating fine on the Honda with 198K miles.
I find the persons comments about the 2001 MPV problems odd since I have surpassed 122,000 miles and have never had it in for repairs other than brakes at 98k. I did voluntary flush the trans and radiator at around 50-60k. The reason I was researching the web was because I was wondering about the timing belt. As far as the plugs, etc., I have been told that if it's not broken, don't fix it. I still average 23-24 MPG all around driving. I will comment that probably 50% of the miles were highway miles. Any suggestions on the timing belt? what happens when it fails? Thanks (I guess I should knock on wood)
No need to worry about a timing belt on any of the 2000 or later MPVs. All of the duratec engines have timing chains which do not require changing.
I could have written that review myself since I am having the same problems with my 2001 MPV LX. I have owned it for 3+ years now (from 11,000 miles to 65,000 now). Until it hit 56,000 miles or so, I didn't have any trouble at all with this van. I loved it and recommended it to friends. However, we have been experiencing hesitation problems ever since. One day the van quit outright and had to be towed to the dealership. The dealer found no problems and couldn't duplicate the problem. This has happened twice since then and the dealer couldn't help diagnose anything. I'm afraid that there is a computer issue and now I'm past the extended warranty period. In addition, we have carbon build-up on the throttle and now the gas pedal sticks. The hesitation issue (and stalling issue) is the biggest concern for me. I plan on dumping this van before it costs me major money.
Gas consumption
I would like to know the gas consumption on 2001 MPV DX?
I have 2001 MPV , tried to see how economy, but I am disappointed with the result.
Full tank for less than 400 km, between city and high.
Any idea, how to make it more efficient on gas.
I'm dealing with a code 421 on my 2001 Mazda MPV. Have about 110,000 miles currently & have been told that this van should last as long as a Toyota. Now I'm doubting that. Acceleration isn't good, gas mileage is terrible (20 mpg) & the gas pedal sticks. Brakes are squealing, even though I have plenty of brake pads left on the thing. Was told "it might need shims." So it's going to cost $200 to get shims replaced & I plan to go ahead & have pads replaced at the same time since it'll only cost about $40 more. Will consider taking the van to the dealer for the Code 421, so I don't waste money fixing odds & ends like others I've read about on these sites. I don't want to waste money on this thing. Just need it to hold up until I can get rid of it & buy a Toyota!!!
I have a 2001 MPV, and as well as the front brakes "squeaking", and the "rattles", I am now faced with an ignition key that will not come out of the ignition, when the van is placed in park! I have already had to replace the "Motorola" coil, and am doing a "back away" quickly from this unit!! To me, if the name on the hood of the car is the same as the components inside,...good,..otherwise liquidate it!
Sid.
I own a 2001 Mazda MPV DX. Over the past six years I've had carbon build up on the throtle every 8-10 months (62,000 miloes todate on vehicle) ; three sets of brakes; three sets of tires; new battery; new alternator; new fan belt; about 240 miles on a tank of gas; and several other minor problems. Mazda has to realize there's a proble with carbon build-up, afetall it doesn't happen to other vehicles on a regular basis.
Help I'm confused. I have a 2001 Mazda Mpv with 60,000 miles on it. It was running great then the check engine light came on. I had it checked and it showed that O2 sensor needed replaced and catalytic converter. After talking to repair man he told me mazda's have 4 O2 sensors and two converters on them and could cost around 2500 to repair if all need changed. Is this true? Does mazdas have 4 O2 sensors and two converters? I can't afford to trade car off and I sure don't have 2,500 for repairs. Need opinion of someone who might know. thanks.
Hello Folks.
I appreciate the comments posted. Can someone suggest that after my MPV which has 92,000 miles, what all should I get serviced in it.
Second, the CHECK light is ON after I bought from the first owner and he suggested that nobody is able to solve the problem and as such MPV is running absolutely smooth. Can someone suggest how to read the problem because of CHECK light and do I need to go to the dealer to understand the problem.
Thanks in advance for your time and valuable suggestion.
I have a mazda mpv 2004. My van has 70,000 miles and every time I get gas, the engine will stall (no check engine light). I do all the maintenance on the car. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks.
For those of you with questions about your MPV, MPVClub. com is an INCREDIBLE resource. I have a 2001 ES with the 4 seasons package, and it's been a reliable workhorse since day one. Check out the site and post your questions there - you'll get solid answers right away.
I am reading up on the 2001 Mazda MPV. I was looking at one here in Calgary. Concerned about maintaining and servicing.
Breakdowns and reliability.
What I hear is, some are lemons and some are pearls.
What I wanted to hear was, is it very good and a good buy, or never buy, the costs are too high?
Adrian.
If someone could please emaplain a bit to me about timing belts on a Mazda MPV LX 2001 I would really appreciate that.
Do they need to be changed at 100, 000km??
Ildy123@hotmail.com.
2001 mpv have chains. No timing belt. I heard that theey
can last up to 200k miles!.
I have a 2001 MPV and have had similar problems to what many others have listed. Sticky throttle, bad engine coil, hesitation, strong raw fuel odor in the cabin after the engine is warm and gets turned off for a few minutes and then restarted (two different dealers checked it under warranty and could not find anything). I refuse to take it back to the dealer since they don't seem to be able to repair anything that is not obvious. If you live near an auto parts store like AutoZone they will check the engine light codes and give you a print out that explains what they mean, for free.
Sticky Throttle and Hesitation: Have Wal-Mart or some other service place perform an injector cleaning service. They will pour some stuff in the gas tank and then disconnect the fuel line and run the vehicle off a concentrated solution for a couple of minutes that will clean the Throttle and injectors. The stuff in the tank helps clean out any remaining carbon while you drive. Then once a month or so take it out on the highway and put the gas pedal to the floor until you hear the engine "open up". Needless to say you will be exceeding the speed limit by the time the engine "opens up" so be careful, but this has seemed to help mine avoid building up carbon for about 18 months now. If that is not an option then you may buy some good gas additive like Amsoil or another synthetic type, not the cheap types they sell in gas stations, and add it as instructed.