Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-73
I have three Honda's with the vin "1HG" and not a problem. In my extended family there are like 10 of them, and still not a problem other than the Delphi alternator in the V6 Accord. I also owned a 94 'jhm', and it was great too.
If we are to say this is the reason to judge Hondas, that more problems come from America, then we might as well say that education causes Alzheimers Disease. Did you know that the vanilla Camry was built in Kentucky? Is that not a state to you? It was admitted into the union in June of 1792, and in Ohio where the Hondas are built was admitted in 1803... Same country!
I own a 2000 HONDA EX V6, which I inherited from my mother last year. She purchased the car new, and the car currently has about 26,000 miles on it. I have been having battery problems, went through two new batteries in 2 months. The battery and alternator were checked three times during that period, and no problems were found with the alternator. So I blamed the battery manufacturer and went to Honda to buy a new one. The Honda service dept. has informed me that it was the alternator after all.
Looking at this website, I see that alternator problems are common on this car. Any reason not to file a claim that the alternators are defective and a safety hazard? I sure feel unsafe when the battery fails while I am driving my car.
They are not a safety hazard. The problem is that they are Delphi alternators that get supplied to a lot of American car companies. People used to the company Denso know that they do not go out as often. So no it is not a safety hazard, but just a nuisance you would have to deal with on any car that is American. Honda has stopped putting these on newer Accords.
Hi
i have 2000 honda accord lx, about 40000miles change transmition, about 60000miles change master brake cylinder.
The SCR light on almost three years.
A lot of problems.
I am the second owner of a 2000 Honda Accord 4-Cyl. Everything was fine in the Northwest, but as soon as I moved to the Midwest the car won't start on humid and/or rainy days. It will crank, but not start. The dealer has no idea and said, wait until it happens more and call us back. Hum... getting stuck wherever I may be for hours is not my idea of fun. I see one other comment about this, and wonder if anyone has had the same problem. I don't want to get into replacing one thing after another until we finally figure it out. Thanks.
Virginia.
I have a 2000 Accord V-6 with 89,000 miles. Two problems going on. At 70,000 miles when I put it in reverse and started to move backwards there wold be a jolt. Took it to the dealer who " could not duplicate" the problem. So I had them flush the tranny and we put in all new fluid. Problem went away for about 6000 miles. Now it is back. I am guessing a stuck valve in the tranny. Am told I might try synthetic fluid in there. Also, just lost the alternator - no warning other than the SRS light glowed dimly for a few miles. I pulled over and shut the car off. DEAD!. I am not used to losing alternators so early in a car's life. My last Honda alternator went 176,000 miles. I looked at the dead alternator and the bearing was fine - I am a little suspicious that the varnish used on this unit was a cheap Class F varnish which will not survive the under hood temperatures, especially in Alabama. Anybody got any thoughts?
I am the owner of a 99 Honda Accord EXV6. I just replaced the transmission under honda "good will" warranty. that basically means that they provide the part. I pay the labor. It still cost me over $800. I replaced the timing belt recently which is standard given the miles that I have which is 116K. Last night my car died. All the brakes like went on for about 5 or 10 min during the day, and last night on my way home from work all of the lights starting diming to where I couldn't see anything on my console. I pulled over to see if my brake lights were actually on, then the car died!! I am not sure if it is my alternator or if something got tweaked when they replaced my transmission. I am pretty upset because a week or so prior to paying them $800 for the tranny, I also paid them another $120 to do a diagnoisis. Nothing was mentioned about my altnernator or associated voltage levels!!
I purchased a 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 in 2004 with 69000 miles. I am the second owner of the vehicle. It is now October 2007 and the vehicle has close to 165,000 miles.
Given the wear that I have had on the vehicle I have had the following problems thus far:
Problem 1.
Close to 76000 miles (spring 2005) I had to replace the alternator and battery. The car died / would not start in the drive way of a good friend. Thankfully I was not driving when it happened. I had noticed a whining noise for about a day before the alternator gave up the ghost.
Solution 1.
I replaced it with a top of the line alternator and 700 watt cold crank battery. I have not had issues with the alternator or battery since. (i think) after reading some comments however I am not quite sure if the other problems I had since the replacement have been related or not. It at least fixed the whining noise and no problems with starting.
Problem 2.
Check engine light came on. Summer 2005 (84000 miles) Took to dealership and was advised that the gasoline I was putting in the vehicle was not healthy for my car. Dealership recommended that I only purchase gas from Chevron or Shell. Apparently the vehicle needs Techron (or additives) to keep the engine from building up junk and clogging the system.
Solution 2.
$500 cleaning of clog build up from 'dirty' gasoline in engine and hoses. Only purchasing gas from Chevron or Shell. This seems to have relieved the issue - check engine light has not come on since. <crosses fingers>
Problem 3.
One day while happily driving in my luxurious Honda Accord (Spring 2006 94000) I looked down to find that the SRS light was on. I took it in to my dealer and they said it was going to cost me about %500 to replace the OPDS sensor.
Solution 3.
Replacement of the SRS OPDS sensor. The light turned off. Just recently however (October 2007 164000 miles) the light turned back on and has been on for a couple weeks. It would come on occasionally when I would start my car. But if I turned off the car and started it again the light would go away. Now it is on. Always. Glaring at me. Increasing my stress levels and making the car feel junky and old.
Problem 4.
About 98000 miles I started to have yet another problem. The dash lights, speedometer, gas gauge, rpm lights dim and shut off or turn on. Odometer reading light has burnt out. Cruise control light button doesn't turn on. Gas low light never comes on any more. I took it into the dealership and was told that there was not a recall for the problem. But for a couple hundred (perhaps $500?) they could fix the issue.
Solution 4.
I haven't fixed it. Dangerous? Yes. Tired of the hassle? Yes.
Problem 5.
About 120000 Miles I started noticing the car 'jumping' in to second. Just a hard shift that resulted in passengers feeling whip-lashed and I could feel it in the pedal. So I took it easier on accelerating and babied the transmission.
Then I felt rattling like the engine was not attached to the frame of the car.
Solution 5.
I was getting tired of the $500 dollar quote that the dealership was so eager to tell me so I decided to try a family mechanic. Apparently my engine and transmission mounts were bad. Replacing the mounts and paying for labor came to about $700. I don't even want to think what it would have been at the dealership.
After replacing the engine mounts I have noticed a difference in shifting. 1 out of 5 times it will still shift a little tiny winy hard - but I feel a lot more power in the car and the ride is not as shaky.
Problem 6.
Just about a week ago another light came on. It is a little yellow light that says "check". Check what? Oh well apparently this has some issue to do with my exhaust system. The manual states "if the light stays on and doesn't go away after three driving periods (which it has) take it to your dealership because this is extremely dangerous." Weeeeeee.
Solution 6. I am debating whether to go into the dealership or drive my car off a cliff and jump at the last minute.
Overall. I have enjoyed my honda accord. Yes it has cost me much more than I expected it to. Yes the luxury has been sub-par. Yes the basic functionality also stinks.
I think I know why the first owner traded in the car around 69000 miles. I think If I do get another honda in the future I will do the same.
Thanks for reading. If any one has any helpful hints for the blinking dash or yellow "check" light I would appreciate it.
My lights burned out on my 99 Accord and they always say it will cost well over 100 dollars to repair, but that is because of the dealer ripping you off. I just replaced all the bulbs myself... never exceeding five dollars. As for the fuel light I am not sure why mine does not work.
Most of the posts are issues that Honda has acknowledged and have either issued recalls or technical service bulletins on. If you do a little research on the internet you can find this information or go to your local dealer and have them run the VIN # to see what Honda is willing to repair for free (in relation to the issues with the car). The person who listed that he needs his 3rd transmission at 165,000 miles is way out of line. Honda paid for the first two transmissions which was to be expected. Paying for a transmission for the life of the car is crazy. You got another 70,000 miles out of the last transmission (the life of an automatic transmission is approx 100K miles) and should have been tickled that you drove the car for 165,000 miles before the money came out of your pocket. The post before this one seems to be a fabrication since they seem to put 20k on the car every year and then all of a sudden they put 70k on it in the last year and a half. I have 102k miles on my 2000 Accord (made in America) and it has been great. I had the EGR valve replaced (under a TSB) last year (car had 90K on it) and did not pay a dime for the repair.
TSB link
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.do?step=tsb&year=2000&make=Honda&model=Accord&style=4+Dr+EX+V6+Sedan&zip=63021&synpartner=edmunds
Recall link
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/recalltsb.do?step=recall&year=2000&make=Honda&model=Accord&style=4+Dr+EX+V6+Sedan&zip=63021&synpartner=edmunds.
I think you should drive your car off the cliff, but BE SURE you jump off your car at the last minute now... hahah hehe. LOL.
I liked your post, it was funny!! hehe ha LOL (the last post before this one)
I bought a 2000 Accord EX-V6 a few years back. And to the naysayers, I have maintained it as required. I have had all the problems others say: battery, alternator, EGR valve, Tramsmission. My transmission just went and Honda won't cover it because I am 2000 miles over warranty. When I bought the car, it was from a honda dealership and they failed to transfer the warranty information into my name... so I never received a recall notice or letter saying the transmission warranty was increased. I had transmission problems prior to the car exceeding the 100K milegae limit, but was unaware that the warranty would cover it. Honda says I have to pay $4500 to getit fixed. Any suggestions???
I have a 2000 Accord with 88K miles and have had similar problems with the battery, alternator, and now the SRS light. It sounds like the dealer will fix the SRS issue for free, correct?
I've also noticed the car jerks when you shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I'm still on the 1st transmission. Is this my early notice for a new transmission?
Is it still under warranty since it's under 100K miles?
I feel like I need to dump this car in a hurry.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord I love the car; I have 186,000 miles on the car. I have had just one problem the EGR valve it happened at 106,000 miles and now it has just happened again. The cost for this was $375.00 the first time and I am sure it will be that or more this time. I know the car had a recall on this item, but it was limited to cars with low mileage.
The ERG work is not just replacing a valve the vacuum vent actual must be drilled out to clear the carbon build up.
My dealer sells the part for 99.95 and I am sure you can find it for cheaper elsewhere. You attach it to a drill I believe and ream out the carbon build up in the EGR.