18th Jul 2011, 00:07
I have a 2001 XC-70 2.5l and simply love it.
I tore both front boots once, so it was my fault.
The right transaxle had to be replaced due to defective manufacture because it is designed to handle a full power (turbo boost) start from dead stop with the wheels turned, even if Pirelli Scorpion ST-R tires chirp. Yes, that's hard on it.
No other failures no covered by Volvo. (one UEM --- aka mirror reprogram covered by them as well.
I'm at 116K miles on the XC, and my 83 240GL has 289K miles and even less unusual maintenance required.
Both go in to the dealer for all work, and are back the same day.
Boot tears are common in icy weather (here in PA) and a boot kit from time to time, usually heat related failure is normal. The 83 is the same way. Changing the valve shim brass inserts is routine; every 40K miles is standard on the 4 cyl B23F engine.
I would not hesitate taking either car cross country and back on a moment's notice.
I've seen the 'Ford biased' ones and new, non Ford biased, product. Volvo is back. The Ford years hurt us.
As for turbos.. whether HPT or LPT, one thing that should be documented but isn't, is adjusting for Texas, Arizona heat with the oil and a few minutes of idle time to cool the turbo housing. My oil of choice... Royal Purple 10-40 for normal Pa driving and 20-60 for the constant 110+ of Texas. Just look at the ambient breakdown temps for any oil, the selection should be obvious. The bulk oil many dealerships use doesn't cut it. Use the good stuff and it saves a turbo rebuild if you have an older LPT. The bearings don't fail, just the seals if you don't cool it off for a couple minutes after you stop... even 60 seconds does a great deal... low EGT (exhaust gas temp) and the oil won't 'boil'.
My daughter has my 93 850 GTAS and it's also just fine. Only two campaigns when it was new... One was the A/C mold, and the other was tight turning shims (neoprene inserts) to eliminate a harmless but annoying noise in 180 degree full lock turns.
Fluids are changed per the book and I have ZERO problems. I drive it hard, plain and simple.
I have only one thing to figure out... where's the easy access hand-twist locks to the CE fuse panel? I know it's behind / underneath the glove box, but I have 2 torx there. If that's the only difference, then all is fine. Blowing the fuse in the first place is 100% my fault. Bad DC accessory insert, which was shorted and it popped the fuse. Bulbs are SilverStar Ultras and give me 16-18 months of service as I expect... changing them is simple and I do it in about 5 minutes.. Changing both together even though one is blown to have a balanced pair.
For me and many of the folks here who drive Volvos (many brand new ones on the road this year with Ford gone) and no complaints from any of them here in town. We share tips we learn and all things like best leather maintenance (I use aloe wipes and not a single crack, crease or wear mark (black leather).
For me, they are & have been for life. I get tired of them before wearing it out.
I know of one gent who traded in a vehicle at 400K+ miles and it was still in spec. He was simply 'tired of it and wanted a change'.
Oh... one last thing... this may help the throttle body module issues many have... use 93 good gas (shell is best tier). It makes a difference. On the trip from Texas to Pa (21 driving hours). I get 27-28 mph with the A/C on and pushing close to MGW at 70-75 mph each way.
So, in summary, don't slam anything closed.. simply close it. Press & click/lock the hood down (don't drop it) and you'd be surprised the impact that has; keep it on GOOD gas and benefit, GOOD oil and benefit. Volvo parts only except the headlamp bulbs... Those H-7 SilverStone Ultras are worth it. Let it cool off a minute when parking, and also give it a minute or two to get fluids turning when it's been sitting / cold or to cool in summer (cabin cooling). It all matters.
Enjoy it and you will be happy. I have and I've been a pleased, loyal owner since my first in 1983. FYI... my 2001 was a trade which had ALL service records. Top notch @ $16K in 2004 with 60K miles (not even broken in yet and still had the 'stretch bolts', which get swapped out for free at 65K).
I'm keeping the XC and will be investing in something a little more upscale for work this fall. Part of the job 'implied' requirements/suggestions. I'll end up with the #1 AND #2 safest vehicles on the road, and will last a LONG time.
Ask if you can't find something or think you've been wronged or simply not sure what to do... I don't mind helping a fellow owner anywhere, anytime.
C.
11th Apr 2011, 09:31
I own a 2001 Volvo XC that was bought in 2004. It was my sisters car and they loved it. It was a company car, and based on her loving the car and the safety features, I decided to buy it out.
The only real problem I have had with the car is bulbs. Always the same ones, but relatively easy to put in yourself at minimal cost.
For the first several years, I serviced at the dealer... that is the biggest mistake you can make. Dealers are notoriously expensive, but VOLVO always seems to be a little worse. Their rude, don't care attitude stinks.
I have had minor issues with the car, now at 92k miles. First major issue was when a oil gasket blew, but I have a mechanic that works on Volvos and does a nice job for a reasonable price. That is the only other issue; parts for foreign cars can get pricey, and with labor can hit you pretty hard, but really, all in all, the car has lasted 11 years now, and I see it going at least another 5. HOPEFULLY!