1994 Isuzu Trooper S 3.2 Liter gas


A dependable and well engineered SUV


Power steering pressure hose began to leak at 125,000. $38 for part and about 4 hours of work.

Rear brake caliper rusted and froze up at 125,000. New caliper $70, new rotor $40.

Stripped 1 bolt pan on transmission.

Although timing belt needs replaced at 60,000 miles -- you can save considerable money doing it yourself. It will take about half a day and the belt is under $50. My original belt has 126,000 miles on it and is just beginning to lightly crack - I will replace it shortly. I do not recommend going much over 60,000 miles - if it breaks you will be spending $1,000 or more to fix the damage!

General Comments:

I think the Trooper drives and handles very well.

It has enough power to get the job done and can pull 5500 pounds.

The interior has very light wear for a vehicle with 126,000 miles.

If you take care of your Trooper, drive gently and have regularly scheduled maintenance performed it will last 200,000 miles or more.

I intend to drive this vehicle until the wheels fall off -- then I will put them back on and drive it until the frame give out. I love the vehicle and enjoy driving it!

It's got a GREAT view of the road!

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 10th January, 2004

1994 Isuzu Trooper LE 3.2


Nice ride for a southern boy


Starter went out at about 60,000 miles.

Power steering hose at 70,000 miles.

Brake pads lasted until 100,000 miles.

Bose car stereo not up to par for the money.

Replacef 8 to 10 wheel studs when tires were rotated.

Does not like the fact that the timing belt has to be replaced at 60,000 miles ($600.00 each time).

General Comments:

The ride is excellent.

The view is great.

Plenty of room.

Put together well.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? Yes

Review Date: 15th February, 2001

20th Mar 2001, 17:06

The timing belt complaint is a small issue. Spend fifty bucks and get a service manual. It takes you step by step on how to replace, don't forget to change the hydraulic pusher.

2nd Apr 2003, 17:27

My family owns a 1988 Isuzu Trooper II. We have owned it from new. A few years ago we had to replace all the Lug Nuts except for 3 or 4. We also had to replace at least 8 studs, sorry I can't remember the exact number. We found out that this happened because the mechanics used an air wrench instead of using the lug wrench tool supplied with the car. The air wrench hurts the lug nuts because it tightens them too much and screws the studs into the plastic inside the lug-nuts. Then when you take the lugs off the car they may break the studs and then they need to be replaced.

1994 Isuzu Trooper




Lifter noise started around 45,000 miles. Dealer would change the oil and the noise would go away. Now have 80,000 miles and the dealer tells me they see many Troopers and Rodeos with bad rocker shafts. Dealer recommends using heavier oil to mask the problem (which is what they were probably doing from the beginning). Now the cost to repair is estimated to be $2,000.

General Comments:

Feel Isuzu used inferior engine parts.

Would you buy another car from this manufacturer? No

Review Date: 18th August, 2000

28th Jun 2001, 10:33

I bought the 94 Trooper new - noticed lifter noise from almost the beginning. At 50k miles replaced the first lifter. At 110k replaced all. At 150k one of the heads cracked & at 160k (now) the second head cracked.

16th Jul 2002, 17:04

I have a 1993 Trooper L (3.2l sohc) with over 200,000km. When I bought it I heard a lifter or tappet noise. As it turns out heavy oil is bad for the light aluminium engine. (oil that is 10w30 or higher) The manufacturer requires 5w30 due to the fact that it increases fuel efficiency, but they also claim it is the lightness of aluminium engines that require it.

10w30 seems to immediately cause tappet noise especially if the oil hasn't been changed regularly in past history (5,000 - 10,000km).

5w30 also needs to be changed more frequently because it breaks down much quicker than heavy oil. Therefore you can get build up quicker from not changing the oil frequently enough and you get valve tappet noises.

(Apparently most shop mechanics recommended to me using heavy oil, but this is counter productive and wrong)

What compounds the problem is that this engine is a relatively hard working engine (overhead cam high revs) and therefore produces more heat. Previous trucks I've had, had large oil reservoirs thereby increasing a cooling effect and decreasing heat and were pushrod type engines (lower revs cooler operating temp)

So be forewarned as 5w30 oil starts to turn into tar or varnish from engine heat and gums up the valve tappets causing the noise. This is bad if you let it go too long as you can end up snapping valves, heads...

Solution: Save yourself a few thousand bucks by getting an oil change immediately to 5w30 (a high detergent one) and dumping some oil additive detergent for cleaning out oil buildup. Then make sure you change your oil more frequently. After a couple of weeks the noise goes away. If it doesn't go away then you need to have it looked at as you've let occur too long.

I feel it's a conspiracy between the manufacturers, the EPA, and Mr. Lube!


A Millbank (zhikr@hotmail.com)