3rd Feb 2009, 03:16

Batteries are a consumable item - they don't last forever. It's a pain the rear if it packs up on you, but it's not the car's fault. Your dealer's advice seems a bit weird though.

And yes, if you have wheel vibration go and get your wheels and tyres checked.

29th Jan 2017, 02:11

Well his car was two years old. An original battery should last at least 7-8 years.

29th Jan 2017, 13:44

Anybody that goes longer than 5 years with a battery is rolling the dice with massive inconvenience. Batteries can fail at any time beyond that. Why be out in the middle of the night or have to call for a jump or tow? Going for 6 or more years is not a good move in my opinion. Especially if you can afford a new BMW. I change mine out, even if they show good. In many cases, doing it at home with all the tools present also saves an install fee. And you can shop around vs paying AAA or the like paying full list price. If it's night or foul weather, perhaps you may appreciate this advice vs the alternative.

29th Jan 2017, 14:17

I also consider 5 years as the safe lifetime of a battery. Anything beyond that is a gamble.

There are electronic testers for the state of health of a battery.

When my battery was 5 years old, I went to a guy who tested it and he said that its days were numbered.

I bought a new battery the next day in order to avoid any risks.

29th Jan 2017, 18:19

Buy a 3 AMP battery maintainer for 30.00, which is not a charger. It kicks on and off as the battery dips. A charger goes constant and will cause your battery to fail if left on all the time. Sears has them. It's a very small box with red, yellow and green lights. I fed a charger wire through my grille on all my cars. Add an inline fuse holder. In less than a half hour it was done. I have it on all my cars, boat and tractor. Roll in, plug in in and your battery is always 100%. Walk out, unplug at the grille and take off. The 5 year change out idea is simple. Pay 100.00 for a typical new battery. Costs you only 20 bucks a year - do the math. If you break down year 6 plus, is it worth it to save so little bucks.

30th Jan 2017, 11:03

I also ran my maintainer wire at the rear of the front hood to the side of my wipers. You never see it. You pull it up when needed. The black wire has an attached rubber cap to keep the weather out. You can lift the hood up and use the clamps provided, but that is a pain. The kit includes a few ways to run it. You can plug into the lighter to maintain the battery, but I do not like backfeeding to the battery. A hard wire is the best. It's very simple to loosen the battery clamps and attach the wires. I even wrote on an index card that the wire is attached and lay it over my speedometer when parked. So I don't drive off with it attached. If you see the maintainer lights staying in yellow and not turning green, you know your battery is almost shot. There are other battery life killers like high heat, extreme cold, many devices drawing high amperage. Our Hondas rarely lasted more than 3 years. Between engine heat and having small batteries (my guess to fit under the hood). The other killer is letting a battery go dead such as leaving an accessory dome light on by accident all night. You can charge back up, but the battery is weakened. A boat can endure this with marine deep discharge batteries. But vehicles demands and temperature extremes take a toll on batteries. The maintainer is a cheap investment. You always have a fully charged battery. You can buy larger versions and use multiple wires inside your garage. I like the singles and use them outside. You have to put the maintainer under a cover out of direct rain. I lay mine in top of my tire inside the wheel well. They are weather resistant with a plastic case, but not totally weatherproof. It takes seconds to hook and unhook at home.