10th Mar 2010, 22:32
I have had problems with the window motors as well. I've bought them for I think $35 or $45 on ebay a couple times. Very bad design. Takes around 10 minutes to replace and pretty much anyone can do it.
As for the instrument cluster lights going out; take apart the cluster and you will find these little resistors that have fallen off of the circuit board. Due to poor design again. You will have to go to Radio Shack and buy better resistors and solder them in; the fix should take 20 minutes and a couple of dollars for resistors.
Now I am having a knocking sound coming from my valves I do believe. It looks like they might have to take off the intake manifold just to get to the valve cover to adjust them. I am crossing my fingers hopefully, not since all of you say it costs $1000 to replace that which looks super simple to replace. I don't understand why it is so much.
Also my fuel gauge is messed up too. Has anyone replaced the fuel pump? Did this fix that problem?
3rd Oct 2010, 21:26
I have a 2001 Buick Regal, I have another year and a half to pay on it, my car has been really good to me.
In saying that, however, I did have to get the lower/upper intake gasket, valve cover gasket and thermostat replaced. Now my service engine soon light is on and it's because of the catalytic converters, so now I need to get it replaced. My lights in the dash go on and off, the lighter does not work anymore. Then my low coolant light comes off and on and it does leak every once in a while. Just tonight for the first time I heard a humming noise and it kinda sounded like a motor boat, but as soon as I slowed down it went away until I started driving again.
I am fed up with bad cars. Before this car I had a Pontiac Grand Am and I wasted so much money on that car. I have no idea what this motor boat sound is. My car doesn't run bad, but now it's making that noise. Anyone know?
10th Oct 2010, 10:30
I have a 2001 Buick Century that I bought from some elderly family who were the only owners of it. The car now has 104,000, and for some reason, when I went to start the car this morning, it started, had the check engine light on, locked up the steering, and rolled backwards. I couldn't get it to stop rolling backwards, so I shut it off and it stopped. When I turned it back on, it was fine. Any one else have this problem or know what's going on with my car? Please help! I'm scared to be stranded somewhere one of these times with my 8 month old son.
5th Dec 2010, 12:16
I have a 2001 Buick Century. The front window would stop working and a buzzing noise would happen. Bad ground wire; easy fix, take and unplug the power supply to the window. Find the black ground wire, pull back the wiring cover and hook a wire to that place, and find a new ground. Maybe the nut to the window regulator. Easy fix and the window will work.
16th Mar 2011, 07:18
I have a 2001 Buick Century that I bought from my Grandmother 2 years ago. When I got the car, it only had 26k on it, today it has about 53k.
The "Low Tire" light has been on for about 20 months now, and just this past week the "Low Coolant" light started going on and off.
Twice last summer I also had the issue where "it started, had the check engine light on, locked up the steering, and rolled backwards. I couldn't get it to stop rolling backwards, so I shut it off and it stopped. When I turned it back on, it was fine." Luckily I was just in a parking spot, but it freaked me out.
Twice over the past few days, the heating is only blowing cold air, even after the car has warmed up and been on for 10 minutes... and two days ago the needle spiked to "H" for the engine temp, despite the car only having been on for about 4 minutes and it being 40 degrees out.
Going to have the oil changed today, and I plan on having them check out the lower intake manifold problem everyone has mentioned, as well as the coolant and the heat.
10th Apr 2011, 20:43
I have a 2001 Buick Century Custom with about 155K miles on it.
The car was a program car, and had about 25K miles on it when it was purchased.
So far I have replaced the exhaust manifold, had two fuel pumps installed, some brake problems, and just recently started having the brake light and the ABS light staying on.
In spite of this, it is one of the better cars I have owned.
I still get about 31 MPG interstate speed (70 mph) with two people and luggage!
The brakes seem to be mechanically OK, as well as the fluid levels. These have been monitored closely for close to a year. The warning light problems seem to be more prevalent in cold weather, and less in warmer weather.
If anyone has found out what the problem is, I would love to know what solutions were taken. I have had it into a dealer 2 or 3 times, and an independent repair shop a couple of times, to no avail.
15th Apr 2011, 21:44
We bought our 2001 Buick Century brand new. Was great for about 2 years or so. Have spent over $3,600 in repairs.
Right now the instrument panel is burned out, I cannot see how many miles are on the car or where Park, Neutral, Drive, Low is... good thing I know where they are.
The cruise control broke a long time ago, which I really miss.
All the instrument panel lights are on... something to do with ABS braking system.
When I step on the brakes, most of the time there is a grinding & the brake pedal vibrates weirdly.
Rear right power window no longer works, keep it up with some rubber tubing stuck between window & inside molding.
Oh yeah, the sun visor has an extension you can pull out, which is nice, but it hits the rear view mirror, poor design.
Other than that, it's a great car. Good transmission, nice ride, 25-27 mpg in town, 30-31 on highway. Great A/C, radio & CD player.
Would buy another car, but don't like payments or parting with my money.
17th Apr 2011, 21:22
I know you posted this a long time ago, and if you still have the car and have not had it fixed yet, here is the most common answer to your problem. The car's anti lock braking system is flawed (go figure), but only in the way that certain wires were ran. Mine has the same problem. For my car, it is the front left wheel sensor. The wires were run too close to the suspension, and hitting a big pot hole or something will cause the suspension to cut the wires to the wheel sensor, causing the dash lights and the vibrating pedal.