25th Jun 2009, 05:08

Well, that's it I guess. 101 comments and none of us was able to come up with an answer or found out what causes this. Like one guy said; this is now a 9-10 year old car. Live with it for a while, then junk it and stay away from GM products.

23rd Jul 2009, 11:14

I purchased a 2000 with only 68,000 miles on it a few months ago, and it has been nothing but problems.

Right off the bat, the gas pump had to be replaced -- I figured this out when the car took 13 gallons of gas when it was registering a full tank.

The A/C compressor was making loud screeching sounds and was replaced within a few weeks.

The car began hard shifting/bucking the 2nd day we had it. Over the past few months, it has become more and more of a frequent problem. Initially, we were told a major tune-up would solve the problem; it didn't. Then we were told that a valve in the transmission was sticking and causing the jerking; valve was replaced but problem continued. Finally brought the car to a transmission specialist and he says the transmission needs to be rebuilt. Unfortunately the lemon law only covered the vehicle up until 2 weeks ago so we have essentially paid $7,000 for a $4,000 car. Mechanic told me that I should try to sell it or trade it in -- too bad we just bought it!

Not impressed with the quality of the vehicle, although I blame myself for not having it properly inspected before purchasing. I didn't expect so many issues with such relatively low mileage. Buyer beware!

30th Jul 2009, 06:25

I have read all of your problems and I am there with you. I feel as though they have built very defective cars and care nothing about quality. I purchased my 2000 Century from an older couple who took very good care of the car. After about a year or so of having the car the digital display went out and I was willing to deal with that. But soon thereafter, the car start shifting really hard and the car was getting really close to overheating. I was told that it was an intake problem. So I had all of that checked out. Then I was told that it must be a radiator problem. So I had the thermostat replaced and the radiator flushed. This seemed to fix the problem, but 3 months later it went back to the way it was. The low quality that some manufacturers put into their cars should be criminal, as sometimes, it isn't just an inconvenience, it's just plain unsafe.

12th Aug 2009, 17:23

My 2000 Buick Century has the same solenoid problem because of the jerking feel when driving hot. The car will not pass emissions inspection in New York City's new computerized system because it says there is a transmission problem. I went home but thought of going back again for re-inspection because I read that the computer may be reset by turning off the engine or taking the battery cable off and on again. Will this resetting of the computer will alter the findings to let the car pass? I know when the transmission "acts up" because the "service engine" lights up. Sometimes this light does not go out and I know the car will run smoothly. It will cost me a fortune to have the car repaired and I know I can live with the problem without the repair. The jerking doesn't really bother me at all because I know it is always temporary and intermittent.

18th Aug 2009, 01:38

I changed my trans fluid in my 2000 Century before going on vacation. Used some Mercon V stuff that is supposed to be good for all vehicles.

Turned off the interstate and as soon as it started down shifting, it would snap your head back violently and whine. The Mercon is thinner than Dexron III.

I put in some LUCAS transmission additive. It is very thick like STP or something. It seems too thick to be putting in the transmission. I would mix it with trans fluid first if I were going to add it. I put in most of a bottle and got some relief. It will make your hard shifting better. Use at your own risk though, I am relating my experience.

I tried other things; changing the filter and fluid again without the Lucas; no good. It seems to be a function of heat, so I wired my cooling fans to both run all the time the key is on. (That makes the air conditioner work much better in town.) Same problem returns when heated up to normal.

I am going to try the Trans Tune next. If not better then, I am going back to the LUCAS stuff. It definitely smoothes it out.

From what I've read, even rebuild is not a good fix. Design problem there somewhere with that PCM deal.

I found the fix to the ABS problem. It is the wiring harness rubbing against the transmission or/and air conditioner dryer. Cable tie it back away from both.

My fuel gauge went out too. Must drop tank and replace unit. Cheapest place is for that ebay.

These cars should get 30 MPG. Mine is sucking because of this transmission deal (20-24MPG).

I think the GM's were much better made in the 90's. My 93 and 94 Park Avenues and 91 Grand Prix were great.

18th Aug 2009, 05:51

I have a 2000 Century which I put Mercon V trans fluid in and it went from bad to worse.

It is thinner than Dexron.

Adding Lucas transmission additive makes it shift smoother.

Maybe someone reading this can use this to get their car good enough to sell.

There is definitely a design problem and the car may not be worth trying to fix with a rebuild.

It might happen again.

I will try the Trans Tune product from Sea Foam company on mine though.

18th Aug 2009, 17:59

Well, everybody had to learn the hard way. My Camrys have all been trouble free.

20th Aug 2009, 17:29

Well, there are plenty of Camry owners on here that don't share your sentiments. I know, they're all fake. Personally both of my Buicks have been great cars and far more comfortable than any Toyota could dream of being.

18th Sep 2009, 13:22

I have a 2001 Buick century, my car slams into gear also although it drives great on the highway. I will not spend money on fixing it im just going to drive it till it dies RIP live and learn.

20th Sep 2009, 16:36

My GF's brother has this same problem with his 2000 Buick Century. Today he brought it over we added approx 3/4 QT of dextronVI (in 2 intervals) first interval, added approx 2/5 QT and showed significant improvement in this "bang shifting" (which ONLY happened during takeoff from a dead stop with hard acceleration).

After a short test drive (several starts/stops with hard acceleration), brought it back to my house and added remaining 3/4 QT of dextronIV, took it for second test drive, 2 MILD "bangshifts" and it stopped entirely for the remainder of drive (several starts stops with hard acceleration), he called after he drove back to his house and said he drove it hard and with no problems (approx 10 miles).

A note - the positive terminal on the battery was unplugged both times - for 15 minutes and 45 minutes respectively. This should reset the ECM, I'm unsure if this had anything to do with it.

The transmission is now slightly overfilled (approx 1/16-1/8") above the "safe fill" mark