2nd Jan 2001, 15:42
I would like to add that I had the same problem a month ago and the governor chip went bad. It would start to cut out now and then on a highway trip around 75mph during a 30 minute trip.
I had Robkey check this and the guy pointed out the governor in the diagnostics test bypassed the computer. I grabbed a whole computer for $20. It fixed the problem and improved performance because the computer screwed with the electric timing of the injectors and the transmission shifting. I would give it a try if you haven't already fixed it, you can save some big money.
27th Aug 2001, 23:32
I have a 90 Beretta GT and had a problem with the lockup converter not unlocking when I would decelerate from highway speeds. The car would just act like you tried to stop a standard car without disengaging the clutch and kill the engine. Just unplugged the wires that controlled that and now... no problems. I am very happy with my Beretta. In fact I'm confident in it enough to now start warming it up a bit. Maybe a higher flow exhaust and intake system. Throttle body upgrades would be nice. Hmmmmmmm. Maybe.
28th Jan 2002, 13:46
I have a 92 Beretta. I've had that same transmission problem. Before I heard about that solenoid. I went ahead and changed the starter, alternator, battery, and reset the computer. After that it runs like a new car and I've had no problems with the car. GOOD CAR!!!
4th Oct 2002, 21:45
The problem of the car stalling after highway speeds sounds just like a problem I had, which turned out to be the torque converter clutch (TCC) lock-up solenoid. Although you can unplug its electrical connector to "fix" the problem, I wouldn't recommend leaving it that way, since it disengages the overdrive, and causes extra wear and tear on the transmission. I was able to buy a new solenoid for about $50. If you have a tachometer, you can tap the brakes while driving at highway speeds, and the RPM should increase by about 200 if the solenoid is functioning properly and disengages. If there's no change in RPM, then your solenoid is probably at fault.
22nd Dec 2002, 23:02
I have a 1989 Corsica 2.8 V-6 and after driving the car a little while ill start to brake and the oil pressure gage will drop to 0 and the car will stall out. If I'm coming to a stop, but don't stop and gain momentum again the gage will go back up and be fine. Its really weird Has anyone else had a problem like this and what can I do to fix it? any suggestions will help thank.
30th Dec 2002, 04:02
I have a '92 GT. Always been reliable and gotten me home, even after accidents I've caused to the body and suspension through the years.
The last year has gotten a bit more costly, it has 125k miles on the original engine and transmission. This year, I've needed a new radiator, CV joints, front struts and back shocks. That isn't too bad with the age, but just when I got four new tires on it, it started to do this:
After I drive for about 20-40 minutes, it starts to sound like the gears are 'grinding'. If I push it, it'll start to lag the battery and stall when I slow down to idle speeds. If I back off when the grind starts, it seems 'OK' for a bit until it grinds again. It has great pick up still, gears shift smoothly... any ideas? Is it simply a TCC, is the computer going? I really don't want to spend 1400$ on a new transmission, so any ideas would be great! Thanks a lot everyone!
21st May 2003, 15:50
I've got a 1989 beretta 2.8l. I had that tcc lock up problem after exiting the freeway. I continue to drive, but the other day it stalled out on the city street after going only 40 mph. I got it towed home, and it started up after a few tries the next day and ran fine. The next day I drove it and it shut down again and now it will not start at all. Please help!
7th Jun 2005, 23:02
I too need need to find out where its located and how to change it.
Crashedking@netscape.net.
6th Dec 2005, 05:52
If anyone is still interested in knowing were the TCC solonoid is located, its behind a panel behind the front driver wheel. The quick solution though to fixing the problem, is pulling out this little Blue connector out of the engine. Its located under the air filter box near the battery.
30th Jan 2011, 16:07
My 1989 GT 2.8l will not start. I replaced the starter and battery; neither are the problem. Has this happened to any one else? If so, how did you fix it?
24th Mar 2011, 19:11
Just wondering if you had any luck, my boyfriend's car is doing the same thing, and we need to fix it, it's driving us crazy...
12th Dec 2012, 16:38
I have an 89 Chevy Beretta GT with a 2.8L engine, and it will start up fine when cold and drive for about 10 minutes until it gets hot. Then it dies and stalls out, and I can't start it again. It acts like it wants to start, but then just rolls over.
I've been told it's the TCC solenoid on the tranny, and I've also been told it's the computer module under the dash or so called ECM. It's one of these two problems, because my car also doesn't run right, like it's missing on a cylinder and sounds crappy, but runs fine when revved up.
I hope this helps. I'm replacing the computer and TCC, so if it works, I'll let you guys know OK.
24th Dec 2000, 15:44
In reference to the problem with your car stalling after stopping on a highway trip, we had the same problem with a Cavalier with the same engine. GM had a monumental problem with the torque coverter clutch solenoid at that vintage. My GM dealer repaired it, parts & labor were $231.00. My Chevy service advisor knew what the problem was even before they looked at it. Great service!!