14th Jan 2007, 10:36
Bought a 1999 Chevy Blazer LT from an individual. Paid $8k three years ago. Took it to my garage - spent about $1,500 on ball joints, front bearings, door hinges, brakes (front and rear) computer diagnosis. Then, about two years ago - another $1,500 on fuel pump, alternator, rear wiper motor and brakes. I find that when I go into four wheel drive, it no longer wants to go back to 2 wheel drive - unless I stop the truck, put it in park and turn it off. Then, with the key turned on, but the engine not started - I push the 2 wheel drive button, and it goes back into 2 wheel drive. That noise we hear on the passenger side is the turn signal switch. I don't know how I got mine to stop, several different Internet author's suggested the replacement of the turn signal handle - I took compressed air and blew out all the dust and junk as best as I could... saved several hundred $$$... I really believe it was Divine intervention!
I currently have 204,000 miles - I cannot get heat out of the bottom heater - a new heater box will be $1,250+... not going there!! Did replace the thermostat and it got the temperature back to normal. I'm going to see if a Trail Blazer, 2003, is available at the next auto auction. Will keep this Blazer for my son... it will be a good lesson in adversity!! Thanks for everyone's input... if I'm making the wrong decision on the Trail Blazer... LET ME KNOW!!!
27th Jan 2007, 21:33
I purchased a 2000 S10 blazer 4dr 4wd on 11/2000. It had 20K miles. I installed a 2" lift and 31" tires. I do take it off road regularly and with over sized tires add a little extra wear and tear. It now has over 95k miles. Overall it has been a good vehicle. I had the problem with the crappy seat handles, but the dealer fixed it under warranty. Up until this year the only repair was a new battery. This year I had the fuel pump replaced and a coolant leak fixed both repairs together were about $1,100 with parts and labor.
Not too bad I wish I could say that for my supposedly bullet proof Honda Accord. Purchased with 65,000 miles in the 2 years and 28,000 miles I have owned it I have had over $3,800 in repairs many done on my own to save labor.
THE MORAL OF THE STORY IS.
"SOMETIMES YOU WIN, SOMETIMES YOU LOOSE"
13th Jun 2007, 16:23
I own a 1998 S-10 Chevy blazer, 102,000 miles original brakes, replaced alternator and battery that's it! GREAT vechile! One of the BEST engine transmission combination ever made. If you maintain them like you should just about any vechile will last, you can't just put gas and go until something breaks. I've owned everything from Chevetts to Porche's and have NEVER had a trans go out. Maintenance and synthetic oil's go along way... Oh by the way... I know what I'm talking about... I see it everyday...I'm a service advisor at a Chevrolet dealership..."No I'm not an aggressive driver and wait to the last minute to stop... I don't understand why my brakes are worn out and vechile jumps" I hear these type comments daily! Take care of your vechile and It'll take care of you!
30th Dec 2007, 22:37
I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer, I bought it new. The only thing, I've done to it sinze I bought was to replace the brake and battery. No issues, I cannot complain, so far this car has been good to me. Today 12-30-07 It only has 74000 miles, I always maintained, changed al fluid when supposed, greased all fittings, washed and polished, engine is cleaned. I am not sure what happened to other people and what they've done to their cars, but this is one of the best vehicle I've ever owned and I am planning to drive this car till the end. That is all I would like to share.
3rd Jan 2008, 09:02
I bought a 1999 Blazer three years ago with 68000 miles. It currently only has 87000 on it. Have replaced the water pump, thermostat, brakes and the idler arm. It runs OK - good in the winter with 4WD. I (like many others) have a clicking sound in the dash or glove compartment area that sounds like the ticking when your turn signal is on. Glove compartment door won't shut, rear window wiper doesn't work and the driver side door won't completely shut.
I won't shy away from GM - I hope to buy a Malibu later this year.
30th Jun 2008, 20:25
1999 Blazer. I sincerely wish I had seen this page before taking this junk in on a personal trade. Have endured most of the same problems as all above, but the fuel pump is ongoing with no resolution in sight.
11th Jul 2008, 15:15
I purchased my 1999 Chevy Blazer LS in the fall of 2000 (dealer's demo vehicle with 5,000 miles). I still have the vehicle and it has only 69,000 miles.
Yes, my passenger seat lever broke off... but I must be one of the lucky ones because it lasted until 65,000 miles.
I had to have the driver's door hinge bushings replaced at 15,000 because the door would sag.
The driver's window (power windows) will occasionally close so tightly that it will not open again. I have to take the door panel off an pull on the scissor lift for the window to free it.
My water pump went out at about 65,000.
Both sets of ball joints need to be replaced, but have not done so yet with an estimate of over $800.
Just in the past week the "Clicking noise" from behind the glove box has begun. I discovered the Flasher module behind the glove box and replaced it at a cost of $16. Of course the module wasn't the problem. It is the multifunction switch in the steering column. Another weekend project.
I have religiously maintained the engine with regular oil changes etc. using synthetic oil only. The engine itself has held together well thus far (knock on wood).
I will probably not purchase another Chevy SUV.
4th Jan 2009, 17:21
Hi to everyone! I live in England, and I bought my wife a 1999 Chevrolet Blazer 4.3. I bought it cheap off a chap who lives close to me, he thought that one of the head gaskets had blown!
To cut a long story short I found out after rebuilding the engine that the problem was the water pump. I have put a new pump on it, a new thermostat, flushed out the cooling system, including the heater matrix, the coolant flows properly around the engine OK!
The problem is the heater refuses to work, I have tried everything! Could it be the HVAC system? I do restore and service American cars for a living, mainly 50s, 60s, and early 70s cars, most of their systems work on vacuum operated controls and never seem to go wrong! But this heater is baffling me. Can anybody help!
I refuse to buy a Japanese vehicle. If I can't fix it, she will have to drive my 1976 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible to work. The rest of the car is fine, no problems at all!
My email address is firstname.lastname@example.org Regards to all Thomas Powys-Keck. (UK)