28th Dec 2006, 16:15
I'm the original owner of 1997 Blazer 2 door 4 WD, and I've had apparently very good luck. The vehicle has 103,000 miles. The gas gauge sending unit went at 70,000, the windshield wiper motor at 90,000, the alternator at 100,000. Other than tires, brakes pads and rotors, and usual maintenance, I've had no other expenses. It probably is time for new ball joints and new idler arm.
I agree with many people posting here that ball joints and electrical problems shouldn't be happening at 40,000 miles. But as a few others have pointed out, many people don't do proper maintenance, and a few others are just unlucky. I'm not sure it's quite correct to blame GM for building cars that sometimes break down. I pass a Toyota dealer each day, and it's service bays are always full, and certainly not all those cars are just getting oil changes.
That said though, there is a noticeable change in "sturdiness" between my 1997 Blazer and my sister's 1999. Those people looking to buy used Blazers might check out the older models as well.
8th Jan 2007, 20:51
I too have a 1997 Chevy Blazer just turning 185,000 miles, has been the best truck I have ever owned. The only problems I have had are oil lines, a rear wheel bearing, idler arm, and one upper ball joint. I maintain my truck as we all should rather than passing the buck on to the manufacturer. I will continue to enjoy my truck and wait scared for the fuel pump to leave me stranded on the coldest day of the year.
29th Jan 2007, 17:10
I own a 2000 ZR2 Blazer 2D and have since new (9/99) and here are my thoughts:
The truck is currently in the shop.
The transmission has developed and issue where it won't shift into fourth gear until it's been driven at highway speeds for a few minutes, whether the engine was prewarmed or not. I had it flushed at a GMC dealership, but they only did the cooling line flush, they didn't change the filter. So, now I'm having the pan pulled and the filter changed. I'm trying to preempt the transmission problems I've heard about.
While it's there, I'm having them estimate repairs to the heater. The temperature control quit working a while back and won't switch to either hot or cold. I don't think it's the heater core, I think it's the control behind the dash. It was "hissing" for a while before it failed (vacuum leak).
As for other problems, I've had the push-button 4wd/2wd control (solenoid) replaced while it was under warranty.
The good part:
Now let's talk about the "front end" (chassis). The parts making up the front-end on this truck are weak at best. The ball joints began failing on it immediately after I bought it. I struggled with two different dealerships to get them repaired with no success. This is while it was under warranty. At some point, they even admitted they were bad, but said they were "within tolerances" and then refused to replace them, even after I pointed out the problem and the obvious safety issue. So, I got an attorney and sued GM. I got $5000 back of the $25000 purchase price plus legal fees and had the ball joints repaired.
This was the last time I'll buy a brand-new vehicle of any kind. The main reason I did it was for the warranty and I had to sue to get that enforced. From now on, all my cars will be bought a year or two old.
BTW, this Blazer hasn't been driven that much. As of 1/29/07, it has only 48,000 miles on it.
30th Jan 2007, 10:17
I have owned a 2000 4wd/4d Blazer for 4 years. When I bought the truck it had 46,000 miles. Now it has 100,108. I am on my second set of tires, my second fuel pump, third battery, second alternator and second set of headlights. It's in the shop right now because either the fuel pump regulator or the spider injection (?) needs to be replaced. I do not know what the spider injection is and I was hoping someone might be able to fill me in. Also, when driving straight or turning left there seems to be a loud "rubbing" noise. When I turn right the noise goes away. Any ideas?
1st Feb 2007, 11:13
In answer to the last comment (placed 10:17 am, Jan 30th) the rubbing noise sounds indicative of a failing wheel bearing. If the noise is worse turning left, and disappears turning right, it sounds like the R/H front bearing is giving up the ghost. The noise gets worse/disappears relative to the cornering forces being placed on that wheel, and hence the bearing. Get this replaced sooner rather than later, it's generally not too big a job on most modern vehicles, and while you're at it, you may as well do the L/H too. If the bearings are the same age, eg originals, the L/H probably won't be too far behind. It'll save your vehicle being off the road again too.
9th Feb 2007, 10:10
I just purchased a 2000 blazer, 2 doors, and 4 wheel drive. After my test drive, I told the dealer about the fuel gauge, the door locks, and a few other things I found were not working correctly. All items were noted, and fixed before I took possession of the vehicle.
One thing that was explained to me about the fuel gauge: I was told that an additive that was used to the gas in 2000/2001 was the cause of most of these fuel pumps and gages not working correctly. The unit that controls all of this is inside the fuel tank. The fuel companies no longer use the same level of additives, and this should not re-occur.
I purchased the vehicle with a 2 year 40,000 km warranty and I'm glad I did. I can see by the number of expensive problems that I just might get my money's worth out of the warranty.
Thank you to all of you who took the time to explain about the problems you have had with your vehicles. This makes paying for that warranty much less painful.
11th Feb 2007, 07:11
Hi, we too share in this misery of ownership in a 2000 Blazer LT 4x4. We purchased this vehicle for my wife from a dealer as a used car in late ’03 with 28k miles. Was told it belonged to the mother of the service manager… It now has only 50k and here is the short list of repairs it’s had done:
4x4 did not engage @29k – dealer fixed for free, distributor, starter, battery, alternator, at 36k it was the fuel injection system ($1200), it cost $100 to change one spark plug (steering column in way) fuel pump\sending unit (gas gauge stopped working), door hinge bushings (front doors sagging), front window electric motor, driver seat heater stopped working –traced it to inside the seat, Now the 4x4 will not engage again, push the button and it just blinks….unreal.
I’m a backyard mechanic and realize things wear and don’t last forever, but come on…. Isn’t GM using 6 sigma quality or has GM opened the tolerance so they can claim the process is 6 sigma capable?
I also had a ’92 s-10 blazer that keep me in a part time mechanic role for years, (i.e. motor @ 55k) but that’s another story…I say had because I recently dumped it a bought a 2006 Toy 4runner, what a truck! Don’t look now GM, but Toyota is destined to be king.
19th Dec 2006, 00:06
About a month ago, I purchased a 2000 Chevy Blazer LT. After giving it a tune-up and changing the fuel filter (and a few other things) mine runs great!
I now have only two issues. (1) If the car is on, when I press the power locks to lock, the driver's lock immediately unlocks itself. The security light also stays on, even after the alarm is off. (2) The dome lights will not go out, even when all the doors are shut. I have to use the "dome override" button to turn them off while I'm driving or leaving the vehicle as they will not go off by themselves.
If anyone has any helpful information, I appreciate your help.