Sad to read the comments from so many unhappy Blazer owners. Too many consistent issues on a vehicle that GM had been making since '83, with only one significant body style change. More than enough time to identify and address the issues, if GM wanted to build brand loyalty instead of just selling sizzle and glitz. That having been said...
I have owned my 2003 2WD Blazer LS since new, the odometer now reads 225,000 miles. I am a fan and am maintaining this one to hit 300,000. I've owned five 2WD Blazers. The '84 (I never buy the first model year of any car) and the '88 were OK. Fun to drive. Pretty good on gas. Radiators were too small and the rear main seals on the 2.8 V6 went at 60,000 on both. Traded them each in at about 120,000 miles. 27 MPG.
My green 1994 2WD, 4.3 V6, 5 speed, 2 door was an absolute gem! Wish I still had it or could get another. The 4.3 is bullet proof. Jiffy lube every 3,000 miles was about it. Brakes and shocks every 10,000 miles. Replacing heater motors was a pretty regular thing with this one and the two before it. Not a big deal. Two alternators, one on warranty and one not. A squeak or two that needed addressing after 100,000 miles. Fuel pump at ~150,000, my fault for driving around on empty too often. Ball joints at ~200,000. Tie rod ends at ~275,000. I enjoyed driving that Blazer for over ~300,000 miles and my teenage kids drove it for another ~85,000 miles before the original clutch gave out and we called it quits. The engine still ran like a charm and didn't burn or leak oil. 24 MPG.
Next was a 2001 LS, 4.3, 4 DR auto. I didn't really get to know it well. Nice enough car until its untimely demise at 120,000 miles. My fault, hit a telephone pole instead of a cat, so I bought another. 21.5 MPG.
The 2003 LS 4.3, 4 DR, auto with tow package (a nice feature even if you never use it, better oil and trans cooling) has been good enough that I'd buy another new one if I could. Needed nothing but grease, oil and filters for 100,000 miles. Then brakes. A wheel bearing at ~150,00. The other at ~175,000. Fuel pump at ~ 165,000. Alternator at about ~175,000. Brakes and ball joints at ~200,000. Radiator and E-brake at ~210,000. Replaced the pins and bushing on the drivers side door to good effect recently and will keep the other hinges better lubricated with spray lithium in future. A little rust starting to show up in the expected places. Some Rust Dr and DupliColor in order soon, I expect. 21.5 MPG.
Drive it like it's already broken, maintain it with a high mileage goal in mind and you'll get there. 4x4 is more of a problem that it's worth. Undercarriage wash is worth the extra few bucks.
I too have had all the problems listed with my 2000 Blazer - 85k... then without any warning on December 10, 2010 I stopped to pick up a pizza... which takes all of 5 minutes... I came out to see smoke and fire coming from under the front end. I ran back in to have an employee call 911. Another employee ran out with an extinguisher. Within minutes it was an inferno with tires popping and windows blowing out. The only good thing was it didn't happen in my garage had I gone home directly. May she rest in peace. GM, please take better care of us.
I HAVE A 2000 CHEVY BLAZER. The gas gauge always reads full, then when I drive it a while, it flops back and forth to 1/4, then empty. I can't figure this out... And the lower ball joints on the passengers side have had to be replaced 3x. The damn wheel just makes a sound like a flat tire, and then you look and the wheel is just hanging... I love the Chevy Blazer, but this has been a nightmare, the gas gauge especially. Does anyone have an answer on the gas gauge on how to fix it... firstname.lastname@example.org Thanks...
They do sell a wiring harness replacement, also a element replacement, mine does it too...
I have a 2001 LS, and the front ball joints and A frame just broke off. It was a good thing because I had just gotten off the highway in a hurry home. I could have flipped or worse.
I don't understand how this could have happened?
I am the only driver, and never hit anything?
I bought a used 2001 Chevy Blazer LS with less than 100,000 miles on it. I didn't have any problems with it, but then I had to have the transmission replaced, rear end replaced, wheeling bearings done, had to replace the engine, ABS light is on and has stayed on, and the engine light is on.
Took to Advanced Auto for diagnosis, and their machine wouldn't read it. Took it to another place, and they said the same thing.
Took it to my mechanic, and he said it could be an O2 sensor, and not to worry about.
Had to replace door pin, and now have to replace it again.
Now I have a clicking noise when I turn right and I'm backing up? Not all the time. I put a lot of money into this Blazer and still owe a lot on it. Any suggestions on the clicking noise?
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