17th Feb 2007, 17:45

UPDATE to my post of 1/29/07:

I got the Blazer back from the shop. Even after having the transmission filter changed it still has trouble shifting into fourth (overdrive) gear until the transmission warms up, regardless of engine temperature. I'm really worried about this one since transmission shops always want to overhaul your transmission whether it needs it or not. I just can't afford a $2000 repair at the moment.

As for the heater I was wrong, it IS the heater core, at 47,000 miles (again, low miles for a truck it's age). I just got notification of a class-action suit against GM for this too (Vortec + Dex Cool = sludge and/or blown intake gaskets), and I'm part of the class (who knows what I'll get, if anything).

I'm wholly disappointed. I've always been "RWB buy American" in the past, but I think this is my last American car. It's my understanding that Ford and Chrysler aren't faring any better these days.

Goodbye "Big 3", konichi wa Japan!

26th Feb 2007, 17:45

I purchased a 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door/4WD. All the sudden my gas gauge is stuck on empty and my low fuel light and service engine soon lights have been on. I take it to the auto shop and they quoted me $875 to fix the "fuel sending unit". Take it back to the dealer as I haven't had it a year (but no warranty) and they said it is about $800-$900 to fix and once they take the fuel pump off, they need to see if there is anything else wrong and could cost over $1,000 after that. Does this sound right to you guys to fix this problem???

1st Mar 2007, 15:37

I am the owner of a 1999 blazer and have owned it two years next month. Overall not a bad vehicle... fuel pump was changed last summer... odometer quit working a couple of months ago. BIG problem is the front right wheel bearing. It has been replaced twice since August of 2006 and needs to be replaced again. When you press on the brakes it makes a snapping noise. Both times they have determined it to be the front right wheel bearing housing coming apart. When you start getting the snapping noise at every braking the next thing coming is the brakes start ratcheting like the ABS is kicking in. Anyone out there know what is causing the wheel bearing housing to come apart - is there another part that is bad that they are missing to make this one go bad repetitively??

3rd Apr 2007, 09:00

I have a 2000 Blazer 4WD and overall I've been semi-satisfied, up until today when my baby failed inspection because of lower ball joints causing the front tire to go bad. It's going to be $600 to fix!! I can't do that! Plus my driver's door is completely messed up too, and there's knocking underneath my car when I drive over 30 mph. Also... every time I press the accelerator, there's a water gushing sound behind my glove compartment. What's up with that? I can't believe it's timed perfectly with Chevy, but I will NOT buy another blazer. This is pathetic.

8th Apr 2007, 07:50

I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4wd 2 door, and I too have had the fuel gauge stop working at about 69,000 miles. Also, I have had to change the front wheel bearings a total of 4 times twice on each side.

The driver's side door is shot; I have to lift it up to close it properly. I also have a lot of trouble restarting it after I park at the store, but if it sits for a day, there is no trouble starting it.

At idle the truck shakes like crazy. I have changed the ERG valve, had a complete tune up (plugs, wires, rotors, the works) and have had the injectors cleaned, but still rocks like a boat on stormy waters.

I really don't know what to do next. I really think I should just run it till it dies with all the cash I have already sunk into it; it seems like a lost cause.

11th Apr 2007, 00:29

Wow! I was just searching the web for parts for my wife's 1996 blazer 4d 4wd, when I came across this site. I knew the blazer's were poorly built a long time ago, but didn't realize they were this bad.

To add to everyone's list of problems with these G.M. made vehicles. Here is my list of problems so far. We bought this used with around 100,000 miles on it. So, fixes to it were expected. So, far I have replaced all the clips in the door panels to try to stop them from rattling. I have put rtv gasket maker around the grommets in the washer tank to stop it from leaking. I replaced the brake pads. Got the 4wd to work again by pushing the plug in on the transmission, but it slips out of 4wd still. I replaced the idle arm on the steering. Its needs the oil lines going to the remote filter replaced as they leak oil. It needs the pitman arm replaced, as the alignment shop won't touch till it has been. The rear shocks are fairly new, but the bottom bushings on them are gone already. And the rear wiper doesn't work.

This is a short list of problems that I've had so far, and the previous owner has sunk a ton of money into it as well. I believe he has already done some of the front end work.

I agree with everyone in the fact that G.M. should fix all these issues to keep their customers happy. Cause in the long run its the customers that leave G.M. that will hurt them worse than the money they'll be out in repairs.

As for these guys that are saying "all vehicles have problems, and should be maintained". Well there's only so much maintenance a person can afford to do to a vehicle. Especially if they still have a $300 + payment on it a month. My wife's is paid off, but I still don't want to spend all of my days off under it.

I personally own a Mitsubishi Lancer Evo, and have had no problems with it. In fact the last 3 cars I have owned were Mitsubishi's and they were all reliable cars without having to replace things every week.

The imports will soon rule the roads as they are put together much better, and last longer. Chevy no more as far as I'm concerned.

Someone should send this site of problems to G.M. so they can see what their once loyal fans think about their cars, and how they've been treated in getting them fixed.

25th Apr 2007, 09:23

I have a 2001 5pd 4x4 blazer with about 65000. Got it 3 yrs ago with 35,000 miles on it.


-Oiler cooler lines twice ($500 for both times)

-Both front wheel bearings ($750)

- Fuel Pump ($800)

-Gas gauge reads empty after 220 miles (only fill up about 12 gal on a 19 gal tank)

- Rear rotors ($300)

- Backup lights?

- Hood doesn't release properly all of the time

- Doesn't seem to have much power anymore.

16th May 2007, 09:57

Anyone here have rear differential problems? And what were the repair costs.