Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-105, 106-120, 121-135, 136-150, 151-165, 166-180, 181-195, 196-210, 211-212
I bought a 2000 Chevy Blazer last year and absolutely love it... Now at over 100,000 miles I am hearing a noise in the front end and my gas gauge does not register correctly. I am taking it to the doctor next week and I will post my results.
I had bought a 2000 Blazer 4Dr 4WD in 2003 with 53000 miles on it. It currently has just over 90000 miles on it. Last year I had to have a new torque converter put in ($450) and today on my way to work I lost "D" and "3" gear. It is now being looked at by the transmission specialist and awaiting to hear the damage to the wallet. I also have had the passenger side seat lever break off (didn't fix, not worth it) and I also just recently replaced the drivers side door hinge (did it myself, cost only $12 for two new pins and bushings). Other than the tranny problems I love the vehicle. There hasn't been anything that I could not tow or haul yet. I am getting a squeak in the engine compartment, which by reading the previous reviews I have an idea what is next to fix (which I'll do myself, a lot cheaper). And now that I found this site I can use it to trouble shoot any further failures since they seem to be very similar.
I own a 2000 S10 blazer and it has 63,000 on it and so far I have not had any major problems with it. I have replaced the pins in the drivers side door myself, but other than that no problems. I purchased it in Sept 2004 with 52,000 on it and so far I have just changed the oil at 3,000 mile intervals and I changed the Transmission fluid and filter, Transfer Case fluid and front and rear Diff grease. I am somewhat surprised with the other comments. As I mentioned I bought the car with 52,000 miles and in the other comments some of the problems was prior or around the 50,000 mile mark that may be the reason mine was sitting on a used car lot. LOL. The prior owners may have had to do all the posted comments and traded it in. But I will now be keeping a closer eye on it after reading this page. Thanks for the input.
Bought my 2000 Chevy Blazer LS in 2001. Used with 20k on it.
Lease trade in.
Now has 57,000 miles on it.
Just came back from the shop. all new rotors. Rusty and pitted.
All 4 ball joints bad. Even though regular oil changes and lubes were done on a regular basis.
Have to lube the door jam regularly or it sqeeks.
Rear wiper motor quit last week.
Seat lay-back handle broke off at 40k. (Vise-grips work well)
The fuel gauge started going up and down with the turnsignals the other day. Shut off the ign. turned back on and is OK now. I guess will soon go out.
It had a couple fuel injectors go bad at 40k. The dealer tried to rip me off by over charging hundreds of dollars extra until I showed him the book showing the hours to do the repair was less!
It's a shame, because I like the looks, I like the way it drives, I like the power of the 4.3L motor (I wish it was about 2 feet longer)
Bob
Indiana.
I just bought a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4-Door Ls 4X4 with 92,000 miles on it. One week after purchase the fuel gauge is jumping from full to empty at random. Took it to the dealer to get a repair quote $850.00 for the fuel pump and fuel gauge sensor. Wish I had check around about this vehicle more if I had found this site sooner I would have stuck with Ford.
For $850 on a 6-year-old vehicle, you can live without the fuel gauge. Why the quote for the fuel pump? I wouldn't think the fuel pump would have anything to do with the gauge. If your only problem is the gauge, and you aren't having trouble with the engine stuttering or running, why bother with the fuel pump? Perhaps your mechanic is trying to make a few bucks off you.
I am going on my 4th year now of owning my 2000 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4. I am averagely satisfied with it, but have had the following problems since I purchased it:
- Fuel Gauge reads incorrectly. It will go to "full" when I fill it, but it never drops below the half tank mark so we have to rely on resetting and monitoring the trip counter to determine when it's time to refuel. It will also randomly "jump" from empty to full when stopped at a stoplight. I haven't fixed this yet, but am currently investigating what it will cost. (I too can't imagine the fuel pump would be related as was stated by a mechanic in an previous comment.)
- Wheel Hubs. When the truck started vibrating, but seemed to go away as I round a turn (as I explained it to the mechanic), he said it was time to replace my wheel bearing (s). I've never done anything as intensive as rebuild a transmission or changed a timing belt on any car I've owned, but I was able to replace the wheel hubs by myself. Cost for each wheel hub assembly was about $135 each from my local parts store. The employee who sold them to me smirked as he said that I was the 3rd guy this week buying them for his Blazer.
- Idler Arm. I recently had 2 new tires put on and the mechanic who put them on and drive tested his balancing work afterward told me that I was going to need a new idler arm before long to take the "play" out of my steering wheel.
Omg, sorry to hear all the 2000 or so Blazer problems. I've owned many older Chevy hotrods, but now own my first Blazer. It's a 1990, 4.3 liter 4x4. I drive the crap out of it and it seems to like it. The body and interior are still in good shape and all acessories work except rear defogger. Sure the tail pipe fell off, leaving a raspy exhaust not, and the hood has paint missing from the brake fld leak, but at 220,000 miles all original drive train, and mostly original front end... I always get where I'm going!
I own a 1998 Blazer and have had to replace the transmission, the front right wheel hub/bearings, the recliner handles 4 times, and the hood release cord twice. I called the dealership about the recliner handles after reading all the complaints and asked about a recall on them. I was informed that they have had previous complaints, but since it is not a safety issue, they are not going to recall it.
If you have not had to replace this part yet, then you're lucky. It costs around $85 each time--not a major cost, but when you have to do it more than once, the issue becomes more about their lack of interest than the money. Frustrating. NEVER BUY A CHEVY!!!
I recently purchased a 2000 Blazer 4X4. I started checking the gas mileage from the day I purchased it and was only getting 11 1/2 MPG. After a tune up, oil change, installing K & N air filter. new fuel filter, exhaust check, spider injector inspected and computer codes checked... Still only getting 12 to 12 1/2 MPG. Anyone have any more ideas?
I agree with all of the comments listed. I own a 2000 blazer and it was the worst purchase I ever made. I bought it 2002 with 32000 miles on it. Love at first site. I was great for about a month. The drivers window stopped working. It was still under warranty. Since then I've replaced it 2 more times. The rear defroster connector broke off the window. Gas gauge not working-it waves at me every time I turn the key. I was quoted 350.00 just for the part. I set the trip meter to monitor it. I had to replace the wheel bearing on the right, upper and lower ball joints for both sides. I have several leaks- transmission fluid, oil. What's next? I wouldn't give this vehicle to my worst enemy.
To the person who posted on the 9th of February, how did you get the spring back in when you replaced the door pins.
My dad owns a 2001 Chevy Blazer, as he has two cars. The Blazer so far has caused him about $5000 to repair just this year alone. First, the stereo system stopped working, the CD Player which he never even used and makes noise that would drive you to drink.
Secondly, he had to replace hoses because his oil was leaking, Thirdly, the A/C Compressor needed to be replaced, 4th He needed new tires and brake pads at less than 40,000 miles, The alternator needed to be replaced and 2batteries,
This is absolutely ridiculous. We filed a complaint with Chevrolet and they are trying to tell us it is wear and tear on the vehicle. The car is only driven by him and it looks like it is brand new as he always maintains it properly. We have bought at least 10 trucks from Chevrolet, but this one by far has go to be the worst. It is constantly breaking down. Chevrolet blames it on wear and tear, that is non sense. I myself have a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer and the brakes and rotors went at 20,000 along with the emergency brake. The rotors were completely deteriorated.
Well, I'm in the same boat as everyone else. I own a 2000 Blazer and I do all my maintenance on a regular basis. A year ago I had to replace the wheel bearings on both sides, upper and lower ball joints, idler arm, and pitman arm. Here I am, a year later, and the wheel hubs are bad again. Wouldn't you know, only 13 months after I purchased them, so they are out of warranty. So, I have to spend another $800 to get it going again. And that's if it didn't screw up anything else. I think its utterly ridiculous that they can't manufacture an after-market part that would last better than the junk they sell us. What else. The heater core went out at 50000 miles. The gas gauge was bouncing around by 40000. 2 alternators already. This is the worst vehicle I've ever owned. I have no plans to ever buy a Chevy again. I've always sworn by them before, but they haven't done anything to help me correct these problems. I've dumped thousands into this hunk of metal. The good thing is, next week its paid for, and I'm buying something new. I just want to take this thing and dump it in a river somewhere.
Is anyone having problems with rain leaking into there 2000 blazers around the drivers side door seal? I was told that replacing the bushings and door pin would correct this by a parts counter person at Auto-Zone, but I'm not a mechanic and don't know if I could do this repair myself. has anyone had this problem and or done this repair?