I have a 2000 Impala 3.8L with 103k miles on it. Purchased it about 1 1/2 years ago with 79K miles on it. So far, it's been a decent car:
New battery about 6 months ago.
Just replaced the rear struts/mounts ($425).
Just had a new P/S pump and serpentine belt installed ($468).
My biggest concern right now is the transmission. I've been having limited slipping and hard shifting after it's warmed up. It gets much more noticeable if I'm driving in the city. Been to a few different trans places, and just yesterday, had the fluid flushed and a new filter installed. Guy told me it's slipping because when the fluid gets hot it's slipping through a gasket or something. when he changed the fluid, he said he put in an additive that works 75% - 80% to rectify the problem. One guy plugged the scan tool in and said it put off code 18 - long life/hard shift - he recommended a rebuild...
I do have some idiot lights on though - the ABS/Traction Control lights. I speculate it's the wheel speed sensor needs replacing, but I don't view this as high priority right now (compared to my trans).
I also have the airbag light on - after reading on this site, I'm going to try the yellow connector under the drivers side.
I fully expect to get at least another 100k miles out of this car - hopefully more. I work in the auto industry and this car (namely the motor), comes highly recommended.
If anyone has any insight on the trans, let me know.
I purchased a 2000 Chevy Impala with 119k almost exactly two years ago. I realize that some of my problems are wear and tear, but the 1998 Nissan Altima has 200k on it, and no where near the amount of problems.
First off my gas gauge is only accurate when I first start my car, or when I idle, or am literally about to run out of gas. Otherwise it reads that I have a full tank.
My AC/heat only worked on 2-4 for the longest. It finally went out. Through lots of research I found it is usually the blower motor resistor, for anyone that has that problem. I will be attempting to fix that tomorrow.
My windshield leaks horribly at top. Found out the hard way. Recent flood in TN left inch of water in floorboards.
Check engine light stays on. Said I needed to change the EGR valve, so I did. Light still on, on my to do list to figure out.
Transmission is starting to slip when the car is warmed up and shifting into second.
Loud popping sound randomly occurs from the dash on the driver's side. No idea what that is.
Window regulator cable broke, rebuilt it.
Like I said, I know there is normal wear and tear, but it is overwhelming at times. I love my car, lots of room and trunk space, and drives smooth for most part. I have to say with the quality of this car according to my experience and previous posts, no wonder GM needed a bailout. I miss my foreign car.
I have a 2001 Chevy Impala LS (3.8) with just under 200,000 miles. I bought it a couple years ago with 170,000 miles.
It is running fine, but I recently looked at the transmission oil, and it seems pretty brown (only looks pinkish if held in bright light). I realize there are dangers to changing the fluid, especially if the previous owner did not change it at 100,000. So what I want to know is: Should I drop the pan to change most of the oil and the filter? Is there an additive I can put in to extend its life and heat conductivity? Or am I screwed and need to just drive it until it blows?
I have a couple years left of undergraduate work, and would really like to get through school before it blows.
Any advice would be welcome.
I own a 2001 Impala. I got it new.
Within the first month, the engine had to be replaced, then the transmission (that was my cue to run).
I've had to replace so many other things on the car, that it's bordering on ridiculous.
I just had the EGR valve replaced, but my engine light still won't go off.
The passenger seatbelt light won't go off.
I have 164,000+ miles on it, can't afford another one, laid off :(
Just the other day, while stopped at a red light, once the light had changed, the car stalled out in the middle of the intersection; thank god once I put it in park and tried a couple of times, it cranked.
The low engine oil light stays on even though I keep the level checked. Please, if anyone can help me, please respond, begging in Louisiana.
I should have come here first before even considering the 2000 Impala I have now. The lack of smiley faces was a good clue too.
I recently just had the dreaded intake gasket problem that's been plaguing everyone ($1900 to fix, couldn't go to Summer school either :().
Previous to this car I only bought Japanese and I've never had as many problems with those cars as I've had now with this car. I'm gonna attempt to trade in for something else because I just don't have the patience, even more so the money, to deal with these problems anymore.
Water leaks into floorboard from under dash; Impalas & maybe others. If car has a passenger compartment air filter (under hood, right side, against firewall), make sure the cover is in place and on correctly. A Valvoline Quick Lube crew left the cover off of mine, and I had about 4" of water in the floor after a night of rain. They replaced the cover, and paid to have the carpets cleaned and dried properly.
Looking at a 2000 with 102000 miles... airbag light on... after reading all the posts, went under the front seat and played with the yellow connector, airbag light went out... I wonder if the bags will deploy if the light is on?... This car is my wife’s X husbands and for “my” daughter to use for school... it has all the bells and whistles so they both think it is great, but it also has low coolant... I think I will look at it more closely after reading about the head gasket problem and others... Thanks for all the posts... it is the only way we can protect ourselves from the industrial machine.
Mine does the same thing, only after I try to start it right after shutting it off. If I leave it sit still for a bit it doesn't do it. Plus giving it a little gas helps as well. I turn the key to on for a minute then turn to start.
Just a note, I have a 2001 Chevy Impala that had the same clicking noise on the drivers side. It also had the sound of rubbing when I turned to the right. Jacked the car up and found that the bearing in the hub assembly was bad. Replaced the assembly myself (one piece from auto zone $90.00). No more clicking or rubbing. If the bearing is bad, when you grab the tire and try to shake, the entire assembly will move. Because this is the drive spindle on a front wheel drive, it was causing the clicking noise. Hope this helps.