10th Nov 2007, 16:53
Hmm I have a 97 Sierra 5.7. I also had problems with my tranmission slipping from 1st to 2nd. Took care of the problem by purchasing a kit on eBay; the 4L60E valve body already with after market reamer and valve. I don't have a drill press to work on the trans valve body myself. Paid about $150 on eBay and did the job myself. I didn't have to take the trans out either, just moved the trans cross bar a bit to remove the pan. Have driven it about 20,000 miles since then and it still runs good. The OEM valve is made of plastic and cannot handle the pressure; that's why you need a new one. If you get a dealer part, you get the same plastic one and have the problem later on. My brother took his to the dealer, and 2,000 later for a new trans his truck is back to same problem. The job is easy; just take out the valve body and replace with the one you purchased. When you take it out you can see the difference in the valves.
Now the only problem that I have on my truck is that the brake pedal is too low and I can't pass the damn inspection. The guy who does my brakes passes my inspection, but he closed up shop. Does anyone have the same problem about the brakes reaching low? I have bled, changed rotors, callipers are fine, changed master cylinder, ream pads have been changed and still nothing; they reach all the way down. No sensors are going off so I know it's not the ABS. Well if anyone had the same problem, please help.
29th Nov 2007, 07:40
I have a `97 Silverado with a 5.7L with 267,000 miles on it. I have had to change the fuel pump three times; the trans was rebuilt under warranty when I bought it used at 79,000 mile. I have had to replace the typical items such as battery, alternator, brakes etc. (normal maintenance items so that doesn't bother me). Recently, the engine started missing so I did a tune up on it and the miss went away; the check engine light didn't come on after resetting it. Then, after about a week the check engine light cames back on, and I found a miss in number 5 cylinder. So, I pushed the end of the ign. wire back on and cleared the code again. The next day the miss was back. I swapped the ign. wires with a new set. No check engine light as yet, but there still seems to be a miss. I will change the #5 plug today and see if that helps. I was wondering what symptoms accompanied the manifold leak? I was told I had a manifold leak about 7 or 8 years ago and never did anything with it. Once in a while, I noticed an antifreeze leak, but never saw any great antifreeze loss so never felt the need to replace the gaskets. I'm a retired mechanic after 35 years in the field and I definitely DO NOT take care of my truck as well as I should. So all things considered the truck has been great.
If there is anyone whom could shed a little light on the miss problem, I would greatly appreciate it.
9th Jan 2008, 20:58
Hey I just recently bought a 1997 Chevy Silverado Extended Cab 2WD truck, it has 228,000 miles on it, no tranny or oil leaks, and runs smooth, although when I go to stop it pulls to the right (might need to change the brakes). Just recently when it is cold outside the check gauges light will come on and it will gradually flicker out when the truck warms up. And the gauges all read at normal or better, and I have no clue why this is happening. I was just wondering if anyone has had this problem as well? if you have please send me an e-mail to firstname.lastname@example.org.
15th Jan 2008, 06:53
I purchased a 1997 3/4 ton 454 last year for a personal plow vehicle. I know the previous owner and it was very well maintained. In the 15 months I've owned it I've repaired brakes, battery & belts, rear seals. It's now in the shop awaiting new gas tank, fuel pump, sender unit and lines. That will total over $3k for 500 miles.
8th Feb 2008, 17:05
I got a 1997 silverado 1500 4x4 extended cab with the 5.7 with the auto transmission. It will shift fine when cold, but will not shift in to low when warm. I just had 3 sensors replaced in the transmission and it worked one day. Now it won't shift into low at stop signs when warm. It will got in to low when I do it manually, but not when I leave it in drive.
The truck has just over 65,000 miles and does not have any other problems. It has rarely pulled a trailer and when it has the trailer weighted less than 500 pounds when loaded.
26th Feb 2008, 22:40
I just bought a 1997 Chevy,4x4 regular cab, long bed, 138,000 miles,5.7 vortex, automatic trans, Super Clean truck (loaded), it was a trade in at local dealer "from a little old man.
Brakes went to the floor as I pulled in the Driveway bringing it home from buying it, (I questioned the brakes on test drive) dealer did stand behind it and replaced a broken brake line, master cylinder and calipers, But, the brakes still feel soft...
I have drove it for a month now and put 1000 miles on it and it seemed like a really decent truck... but, I smell the coolant faintly and can't find any leaks, and the drivers door handle is cracked (sounds common) so yesterday, I take off on a trip out of town pulling a 1500 lb. Trailer, and make it 50 miles and the transmission goes up in smoke and dumps the fluid, overheated, $150 tow, and $1800 rebuild, 6 hours stuck out of town... and OK, you get it... Enough said... Like a Rock.. Uh Huh.....
2nd Mar 2008, 00:12
I have had my 97 Silverado for 5 years now. I have had no problems with this truck that were not brought on by me. I have had to replace the idler and pitman arms, a ball joint, and a front hub. The reason for this is because I was running 9 inches of lift and 38 X 15 inch Ground Hog tires without steering dampeners. I have had to replace the rear drums, but again I let the brakes go too long. And finally, I have the leaking intake manifold since the day I got the truck never fixed it, but the truck still runs like a champ. I recently lowered it back to factory specs and it runs like the day I bought it. Original engine and trany never rebuilt.
3rd Mar 2008, 21:07
I bought a 1997 Silverado z71 with the Vortec 350 in 2004 with 94,000 miles on it. Although I have always been a Ford man, I've always liked the 88-98 chevy 4x4's.
I must say the engine is one heck of an engine, but that is where my admiration stops. It's been one small problem after another with this truck.
I've replaced the radiator, interior door handles, wiper motor - which it seems every one else has had to do the same - the tail light/blinker boards (both sides) look like they are melting and the dash fuse box looks corroded, and now my truck starts only when it wants to, and the AC/heater motor/blower doesn't work. The heater on my 1966 Ford 4x4 still works!!!
Of course my main problem is the starting problem. The dealer has replaced the terminals in the fuse box (under the hood) and the electrical part of the ignition to the tune of about $600.00 and I still have the problem. Oh sometimes it starts, and when it does start it does run good - no question about it, but I can't take it anywhere without the worries. It's mostly been parked or at the dealer since June, 2007.
The battery and starter are new, and I've always maintained the truck the way it should be maintained, and I do not abuse it at all.
I know all vehicles have problems, and even though I really don't want to get rid of this truck, I don't think I'll buy another Chevy. Does anyone have ideas about my starting problem? Please help.