Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-53
I have a Chevy silverado 2000 1500 v4.8 bought new. At 27000 the pads and rotors had to be replaced. At 54000 after brake pads were replace, the right rear brake was staying on. Calipers were replaced for both rear brakes. I have added brake fluid twice since this has been done, hopefully this will stop. There were a lot of recalls.
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado 5.3 automatic trans. When driving in either 3rd or over drive and reaching that gear if you try to maintain a speed of 40 to 55 mph there is a continuous stuttering. Any suggestions?
2000 Silverado LT Z71 5.3L. Bought new in 00,now have 60k on it. Only problems: Right rear window adhesive failed, windo came loose. Dlr rebonded. 4 whl dr module (in dashboard) failed.Wouldn't go into 4 whl modes. I pulled it apart. Lousy soldering was the issue. Resoldered, no probs since. Just put new set of Yokohama Geolandars (sweet tire). Have experienced the anti skid issue pulling a trailer. Once it kicks in, don't plan on coming to a stop for another hundred feet or so. I'd rather skid and take my chances w/driving skill. Love this vehicle, hate the gas mileage, but if it weren't for $3 a gallon gas we wouldn't care. Right? I did put in a K&N filter in it and it gets me another 1 mpg. I'm averaging about 15.5. I live in Indiana and drive all year round. nice in the snow and not a sign of rust so far.
I own a 2003 Silverado, 4.8 v8, automatic, regular cab short bed, 4x2. Seemed like a good truck at the time, but that has proven to be terribly wrong.
Had the steering clunk fixed 2 times and the dealer says they won't fix it any more for me. Now I read how the lube just runs out on hot days. The transmission makes a loud and noticable clunk when shifting between first and second gear.
My dealer wouldn't give me replacement tailgate cables until I received my official recall letter from GM... and they broke as I was unloading my ATV. Bent the tailgate, but the dealer THEN fixed the tailgate and put new cables on it. Should have got a new tailgate because it will now drop open for train tracks, pot holes, and other big bumps in the road.
AND most recently, just as the truck is coming to a stop, it will make a loud clunk... and if it doesn't clunk before stopping, it will clunk when I let my foot off the brake.
Oh yeah, and the heater fan now rubs against its housing. If that weren't enough, the gasket on the water pump is going bad (heard that's from the red coolant they come with) and leaks.
Only good thing about the blasted truck has been the Firestone Steeltex tires. I've put over 81k miles on those stock tires and they look great. Too bad Firestone discontinued Steeltex.
I had an '87 Chevy Scottsdale before this and regret buying new when I could have spent half the money and had the old one completely redone. I seriously doubt I'll buy any Chevrolet again. I understand Tundra is now 100% American... I think the only thing American about my Chevy is the name and the Indiana plant it was assembled at with foreign parts.
I have a 2002 silverado, extended cab, 4x4, 5.3L. Bought it new in 02 and now have 130,000 miles on it. I've had no problems until now. My mpg dropped from 16-18 to 9-11 in the last few months, it also misses horribly when its cold then smooths out when it warms up. I bought the truck in Hawaii and just moved it to Minnesota, I don't know if the computer is programed differently for HI vehicles. Any ideas?
If you haven't already tried this, replace the oxygen sensors. There should be 2 of them on your truck, 1 on the engine side on the catalytic converter & 1 on the tail-pipe side of the CC. These are very easy to change yourself. Cost for the O2 part should be ~$50+/-. Replace 1 at a time if you are short on cash, otherwise you can just replace them both.
I had 1 fail on an old Jetta & the mpgs went from ~30 to ~20. I paid a shop to replace ~$150 and asked them to save the old 1. My mpgs returned to ~30s & I figured out they charged ~$100 to unclip a wiring harness, unwrench the sensor from the exhaust pipe and then reverse the process.
I replaced the next 1 (different car). Completely ease to do!
2000 x-tra cab short bed 4x4 bought new in 99.
85k-> Driveline clunk, Fixed @ dealer with new output yoke
12k-> Both rear/side windows resealed (dealer)
72k--> Battery
80k --> New tires & rear pads
100 --> Fromt pads, Rear pads again + rear calipers.
Hmmmmm, other than brake pads & a battery (wear items) I guess I'm pretty lucky. I do agree on whoever stated the brake rotors are made with inferior metal. They rust / rot out like a boat anode! I'm afraid I'm going to have to call BS on any silverado getting 24 mpg. C'mon., even the GM engineers are LOL.
My 2000 silverado will all of the sudden not turn over. Lights all work battery seems good and I realize from past experiences with vehicles the starter or solenoid might be defective. Anyone know any other possible things that may be causing this. Appreciate any input. Yes the fuses are all good I checked. Thanks Smitty.
I have a 2000 2wd Chevy Silverado 4.8L with 99750 miles and am happy to say I've had very few problems with it.
The few problems I've had include the sticking throttle (which I fixed myself with a little lubricant on the flap hinges and a little cleaner below them), a battery replacement and positive cable replacement (delco batts suck), two sets of tires (thanks to bad wheel alignment by a private tire dealer-- now fixed), and (this is the strange one) a broken rear shackle. Other than that, I deal with steering that has become a little loose over the miles and constant replacement of the daytime running lamps. Not terrible for near 100k miles.
I do get around 20 mpg on the interstate, which is the bulk of my driving. Between stop lights, I probably get about 15 or 16. I've considered getting a new Silverado, but this one is paid for and refuses to die, so what's the point?
As for those comments from some looking at the Tundra as their savior-- Try putting it through what my truck has been through (running off the road, 3 missed oil changes, stuck in snow, ran through a river twice, and survived a tornado) and tell me how maintenance-free it was after 99k miles. Also, did you know the Tundra is notorious for stalling? Of all the problems I've read in this thread, that wasn't one related to this truck, and that's a pretty dangerous problem...
There's nothing unique wrong with this truck. You should expect some problems and a little extra maintenance if you drive it like you stole it. Even imports won't put up with lousy drivers.
I have a 2000 Chevy Silverado, and there is no way it gets anywhere near 24mpg, more like 15avgish. I have had the brake problem, just almost took out my fence because I hit a bump and it decided to go to the floor again (fun feeling I am telling you), Only had it for about a year and a half now, will have to replace the wheel hub assembly, 4x4 switch is sketchy, likes to not come out of 4wd. But it does have 121k on it so I guess it is what it is, wish the brake thing could be addressed by GM and fixed.
I work at a GM dealer here in Joliet, IL, and some of my customers get around the ABS problem by just taking out the ABS relay in the fuse block in the engine compartment. This gets rid of the over reacting ABS, but it will also disable the entire ABS system whenever you may really need to use it. It also turns the diag. light on the dash, which is annoying so people will just put electric tape over it.
I do not recommend taking out the ABS relay, as it takes away a valuable safety control device on your vehicle.
As for the gas mileage, 15-18 mpg is the best I have personally seen, and 10-12 mpg is the worst I have personally seen.
The piston slap when cold is from one of these two problems: Carbon build-up on pistons, and because mid year 2000 was the introduction of a new family of GM engines, we occasionally see improper ring and piston clearances from the factory. This is definitely possible, and will make that noise also.
IF carbon build-up is to blame, full throttle acceleration and letting it shift through all gears when safe is one way to clear out some carbon, but the best and also the most expensive of the two is the available top engine cleaning through dealers, which really helps.
IF improper ring or piston clearances is the problem, this will usually require a rebuild of the engine.
Overall they are good trucks, regular maintenance will keep your vehicle running smooth, and I can't stress that enough.
I also own the 2000 x-tended cab 4x4 4.8, 5 speed. The problems I have had is a front wheel bearing went out, and the brake lines rotted out on it. (Ohio native truck) I replaced them and bled the crap out of them before taking it to a shop and they had to remove codes from the ABS. Since then I cannot keep a firm brake pedal unless I pump the brakes while driving. Took to the shop, they wanted a lot more money and replace some parts.
I too have had the problems of the ABS acting up while driving down rough roads or over R/R tracks. Prior to replacing the lines. I have enjoyed the truck owned it for four (4) years, with very little problems other that what is stated. It has over 120,000 on it and averages 16-18 mpg, and if I keep it under 2,000 RPM's I have gotten 20 MPG. Not often but it did happen.
I just came across this survey and had to read all of the comments. I own a 2000 Silverado LS with the 5.3 mtr. I got a smile on my face when I read the comment posted on 1 aug.2002 "Also, if this gas burner gets 500,000 miles on it with no major repairs, motor rebuild or new motor, the owner should call Ripley's Believe It or Not. Because, I don't!" My Silverado has 392,000 miles on it and has never had engine problems. I still drive this truck everyday; headed for the 500,000 mark.
Silverado LS 1500 5.3 143,000.
I have only owned this for a couple of years now. It has had minor problem. I average about 13 mpg in the city. Center console lid broke, I am afraid to ask how much one of these cost. The big speaker in the pass door went out, cost me $65, now the driver side is blown. The body below the back of the cab is starting rust. Today the cable that rolls the window up on driver door broke. Looks like I am going to have to learn how to change one out? Anyone got any advice?
I have a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado regular cab, short bed, 4.8. I bought it at 30,000 miles.
I hold it to the floor everywhere I go. I drive all over the place. City and freeway. I get 15 miles to the gallon. I suppose if I drove it on the freeway only with no traffic at 65 70 miles an hour, it would get better than 15.
I change my spark plugs every 10,000 miles. I change my oil every 1,000 miles. I change my air filter and fuel filter every other oil change.
I broke my differential, but it's because I was doing burnouts and donuts.
My fuel pump did go out on me around 90,000 miles. My radiator went out on me at 110,000 miles. And my transmission went out on me at 70,000 miles. They covered my transmission (second gear broke). I only had to pay like 250 dollars I think. My radiator was only 75 bucks. My fuel pump was outrageous though, above 150 I think.
If I can get it to hook up (traction), it will outrun those new Mustangs that came out in like 2006. I don't think it's stock though. It has the stock muffler and everything looks stock, but maybe someone decked the heads and put a camshaft in it.
It runs like my 69 Chevelle. This guy has a 98 Lexus with a V8 in it. I beat him and that's a tiny car. I think the Mustang was faster than him though. I like my truck. It's a clean looking truck too. I just put the 2003 tail lights on it and 2003 wheels on it. Other than that, it's all stock I guess.