I also have a used 1999 LT 4WD. Purchased from a Dallas dealer over the Internet. Front brakes are an issue. Turned the rotors twice and warp again within 500 miles. Just turned 103,000 miles and still runs like a champ. I purchased the model with the quad seating to ease entry to the third seat. I wish they would design it as the older models with full length flat storage as the seats used to lay flat. I have owned 1982 and a 1988 4WD Subs and enjoyed them more due to their versatility.
Help...Anyone...Please! Bought my 1999 Chevy Suburban new, now has 69,000 miles and have not had too many problems. Did the brakes twice and just this week had the water pump replaced. However, I had to take the rear climate control fuse out because the rear heater/AC fan would mysteriously start running while the truck was parked and off. Many a morning the battery would be dead until I figured it out and pulled the fuse. Now, the front heater/AC fan runs at top speed, only while the truck is running, and I cannot turn it off or down... so I had to pull the fuse for that, too! Any ideas? Thanks, Tom.
I have a 1999 2WD Suburban. I have had to replace the starter 3 times. Two were covered under warranty, but the third was not. All we AC Delco starters. I also had problems with the Front Disk Rotors. They were warped and caused front end wobble during the first 5k miles. Dealer resurfaced them, but the wobble came back. Dealer installed new rotor and problem has gone away. I replace my brake pads often.
I purchased a 1999 yukon with 89,000 on it It now has 120,000 and the problems are just starting. All with in the last 2 months. Battery cooked in Delray, Fl, Fuel pump just went dead in NJ, and now the starter is waiting to be replaced in Mooresville, NC.I like the truck, but wonder is it worth all this?
All the break down have been in lucky places (if there is such a thing) trouble is I go hunting and fishing in some remote places, wonder what next?
I have a 1998 Chevy pickup half ton 4wd which had front brake problems. The calipers locked up which caused the brakes to over heat. I keep the sliders greased on the calipers. Seems to work, but I don't trust them. Also have a 1999 suburban, has the same problem, front brake over heat. I can't get this one fixed myself. Greasing the calipers is not working. I have a 1994 Chevy Suburban with no problems. Old dependable. Chevy, late 1990's has brake problems.
I have owned a 1999 Suburban LT 4x4 1500 for a little under two years. I bought it from a dealer only auction (I had connections) with 72k miles and now have 125k miles. I love the rig and the ride. The ride improved dramatically after replacing the shocks. I did not suspect they were too bad until I experienced excessive front end bouncing on some poor Montana roads (paved). I have replaced all four passenger door power lock actuators ($180 each). I just replaced the heater fan switch. It slowly died over a three week period. I would keep losing a speed setting until I had none. Unfortunately the fan switch is part of a heating/cooling control panel, thus the entire panel has to be replaced ($350). I also had an engine light come on for no reason. A helpful local oil lube station told me to go add a full tank of Chevron supreme gas and two bottles of injector cleaner. Just before that tank of gas ran out the light went out and has not come back (10k miles later). The only other issue I have has is the power steering. At speeds of 25-30 MPH in somewhat tight turns (such as those found in subdivisions), the power steering resistance seams to disappear briefly. This makes you turn the wheel too sharply and requires a steering correction in the opposite direction of the turn. This is a very strange sensation. This is my first American manufacture vehicle, so it seams strange needing repairs before 150-200k miles. Other than these items listed above, the truck has been a great vehicle to own.
I am the original owner of a 1999 Chevy Suburban K2500. Overall, I have had quality problems that were taken care of by a dealer and the extended warranty, thank goodness.
My current quality frustration is related to the rear tail light assemblies. First around 70K miles the passenger side blinker failed. I replaced the bulb, but that did not resolve the issue. The socket assembly that the bulb fits in to actually heated up enough to cause an overall failure of the socket. It was replaced under the extended warranty. Today, at approximately 80K miles, the driver side socket failed. Not being able to have the vehicle in the shop for a day, I decided to fix it myself. It only took about 15 minutes tops to do.
Here is the beef. The replacement item, with tax, is a little over $60.00. Sure is an expensive fix for what normally could be resolved by an inexpensive bulb replacement back in the day. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
This seems to be a design defect that GM should resolve in my opinion, even if the design has been changed on the current subs.
Bought a 1998 Suburban from a Chevy dealer. Vehicle had 58K on it and has been a good car. A few things did happen however. the water pump failed at 65K. Alternator died as well at 67K. The check engine light comes on when I pull a boat up grades. Always goes away later and was diagnosed as a misfire.
The front rotors warped at 72K requiring replacement. I used cross-drilled TRW rotors and 911 pads. What a difference!
Intake gasket seeps and is slated to be replaced in a few weeks.
My family loves this vehicle and the comfort it provides on long trips. I wish GM would own up to the intake problem.
I am the Owner of a 1994 1500 4wd drive Suburban I have owned for about four years. The truck has 120,000 miles on it now.
I have done "routine" maintenance and have had no major problems until recently. The radiator began to leak out of the oil line location on the radiator tank. The tank actually is plastic and was cracked. I replaced the radiator with a NEW modine. I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses and a new thermostat. When I put it all back together I had no heat. Prior to putting the radiator in it had good front heat, but no rear heat ever.
So, I put a new de-clutching fan on it which was bad. I replaced the water pump and a new radiator cap (15lbs).
All to no avail, it still has no heat. So I break down and take it to the local Chevy dealer. They "flush" the system for air pockets. Result was for one day I had front heat back. Then next day it was back to no heat condition.
Has anyone had similar problems? Any suggestions would be welcome. Heater core seemed fine and worked prior to rad change?
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