2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer LX from North America - Comments

I have just purchased a 2003 Trailblazer. Looking at the specs as an engineer this should be a beautiful vehicle.

Reading about the large number of random electrical problems leaves me with significantly reduced confidence in the vehicle.

Five years of no response to a continuing problem leaves me with little confidence in the company.

Where is GM is all of this?

Does this deserve a class action suit, there is a significant danger factor if the vehicle quits at the wrong time.

I am so frustrated. Mother of 4, my income is the only one in our household and we have already spent way more than we can afford trying to fix the same issues everyone here has described.

Our 2003 TB shuts off as we're driving. Can you imagine how scary that is when you have FOUR KIDS with you in the car? :-(

We took it to a repair shop where we are getting a VERY EXPENSIVE ($400) throttle body replaced because supposedly the computer they scanned it with said that it needed replacing, along with the ABS sensor. Plus we paid $110 diagnostic fee for that scan. Before finally succumbing to replacing the throttle body, I'd done some research online and found that supposedly having the throttle body cleaned would solve the issue. that didn't work. The car shut off to the point where it DIED completely. Now that it's there at the shop the mechanic calls me and tells me, "Oh, your battery is dead, you need a new one, we have one that is..." I flipped and said OH That's FUNNY because my battery was working JUST FINE this morning. Right now I don't know what's going to happen.

But I called GM (the # someone else posted here). They want me to bring it in to a GM dealer so they can do ANOTHER diagnosis because they will not accept the independent's diagnosis. She said that if it's found that it's a manufacturer defect then they will resolve it, if not, "there are other avenues we can explore." I don't know WHAT that means! I called the GM dealer and it's $160 JUST TO DO A DIAGNOSIS!!! I can't even afford that right now.

I'm ready to bring a class action lawsuit. Is anybody else in? If so, please post here. I will keep a close eye and I will contact a lawyer in the meantime.

My husband's TB ('05 or '06... can't remember) has recently started the no-start thing. Radio plays, plenty of power, but nothing when you turn the key, no click, no nothing.

However, if you make a call on your cell phone and turn the key, it will start. Go figure.

I own a 2002 Trailblazer. I bought it new and I have been the only owner, I've had the same issues everyone else has with this vehicle. Constant problems with my tail lights, battery and key getting stuck in the ignition, etc.

Now my car has 86k miles and for the last six months this car has been sucking me dry. I've replaced the transmission ($1600.00), bought 2 batteries, replaced the ignition switch, replaced the starter, was told I needed to replace the throttle body assembly for $400.00. I stalled on that and guess what, the car has been sitting at my mechanic's for the last two weeks, now he says it's an electrical problem that is going to cost me another $900.00. It seems to me that no one knows for sure what the problem with this vehicle is.

I was in the same boat as a lot of you were, or are. I too have a 2002 Trailblazer which I could not get my key out and then could not start it. It also blew 40amp j-fuse like water, until it just would not start.

Replace the Ing switch, still the same thing, if you even moved the steering column, the next thing you know the ABS light comes on, the the brake light as well as the service engine soon, and 4wheel drive indicator, then you are screwed.

Well I found the one thing most of us or you guys have tried, but I found this white wire shorting out to the steering wheel guard, very hard to see.. But that metal was razor sharp and had cut thru the wire insulation and was shorting out the Ing A fuse and creating a whole lot of trouble.

So go and look real good around that shroud and see if you too are having the same problem.

2006 Trailblazer SS

Burns oil like crazy - see GM "piston slap" issue on google.

New motor at just under 40k miles (blew a rod).

At dealer 5-6 times for random shoddy engineering materials issues, recalls, TSB's, etc - everything from fuel gauge inoperable, to "service stabilitrak" which I had to come back 3 times because they didn't see it and there were no GM bulletins until the 3rd time back!

Driver door module went bad, couldn't get in car from drivers side, couldn't open windows from driver side or open the driver window at all! (middle of hot summer!)

While at mechanic getting new motor, battery died, so when I got car back, the Air conditioning stopped working! No cold air, and no air at all upper vents, only on my feet! Check google, EVERYONE who gets a new battery or their battery dies ends up with a bad AC actuator, because of SHODDY ENGINEERING - so one issue leads to another with this joke of a vehicle.

NOW it doesn't START!!! First it intermittently didn't start, a few tries later it would start, then resetting something by removing battery cable and then putting it back on would fix it temporarily for a few starts, but NOW this fine piece of American Engineering and company that created it deserves a bailout!?!?!? WHERE IS THE LOGIC!?!

I would bail Honda out before GM, at least they make a good car! I have 2 imports that I can't break no matter what I do, only need brakes and oil maintenance... but the (2) GM's I have owned, an 1986 and 2006 - BOTH have been the worst experiences and purchases of my entire 35+ year life.

Where do I sign up for a class action lawsuit, or something that gets me out of this car without losing any more $$ and makes GM finally liable for something, instead of getting to play the innocent American icon.

I too have been working on a 2002 Trailblazer. No luck starting and the dash tachs freak out. I've done everything but changing the wires under steering column. I don't know.

My 03 Trailblazer starts great, however, the keys will not come out of the ignition, nor will it let you completely put the key in the stop position. Any ideas?

I too had the starter problem, unfortunately while I was out but I did take apart the starter and found the wires from the starter to the plugs were corroded and started beautifully after the leads were cleaned. Hope this helps. Oh and the starter was clicking, but not trying to start the motor.

LONG!!

Master mechanic from Virginia here, with many years of GM dealer experience... & wanting to thank all the posters on this thread for... making me smarter! And now... to return the favor! (REALLY REALLY love this website!!)

Starting issues with GM vehicles in the 2000-2007 year ranges: biggest issue is BATTERY. If you've read this far, most every post mentions an electrical problem of some sorts. And the heart of any vehicle electrical system is the battery.

Most batteries last @ 5 years: AVERAGE. That means some LESS. If the battery in your vehicle is 4 years old or more, or you've had to jump start the battery more than once, replace it immediately, and could very well avoid having to deal with ANY of the problems mentioned in this thread. If you wait until you vehicle needs a "jump start" to prove the battery has had it... you've waited too long!!

Also note, jump starting many vehicles severely damages things right then: it's a voltage shock to the system. Being careful and "doing it right" isn't even much of a factor: it's the simple act of "forcing" high voltage/current through a compromised system. And you don't even want to know how many things you'll kill if you hook up the jumper cables wrong...!!!

AND... side post terminal batteries, as in most GM vehicles, are notorious for having serious acid contamination/corrosion IN the battery connections & cables, and which is usually never seen until the cables are physically removed from the battery; if the corrosion gets "into" the cable & the wire strands, it can actually wick, or spread deep into the cable and cause massive vehicle electrical problems; if the wire strands are yuck-green, the cable is a goner. Solution: replace leaking battery AND replace the affected cable (s.

Also, when replacing a battery (and checking the cables/connections as above), 2 more things MUST be done:

1) The alternator must be checked for proper voltage and amperage output, as well as for excessive A/C ripple: must have proper test equipment for this (most mechanics don't!!). Alternators are high failure-rate items.

2) The electrical system must be tested for key-off DRAINS. GM vehicles are notorious for this concern: you're not OLD (or bad otherwise) battery is dead, but the charging system is good: something is /killing the battery with everything "off", and the vehicle shut/locked. One of the faults for this concern is... that dreaded "ignition switch"... which can go bad or actually be installed wrong and cause a battery drain. Again... the ignition switches (electrical part) are EASY to install wrong!!

Here's a checklist then of starting issues: note there is a important distinction between starting issues (engine cranks or does NOT crank) and which almost all posters fail to indicate (most just say "won't start"...) :

NO START/NO CRANK:

* Many clicks heard at the starter, other vehicle electronics acting weirdly, and the engine won't turn over (crank) : dead battery (replace rather than jump; or remove battery & charge if it's still tests good).

* One click at starter, engine doesn't turn, all other vehicle electronics fine: usually a bad starter.

* One click at starter, engine doesn't turn AND lights go out while key is in start position: bad battery connection/cable or starter connection/cable.

* No clicks at starter, all other vehicle electrical stuff seems fine PLUS security light is NOT on or flashing when turning the key to the start position: failed ignition switch (electrical part).

All the above components can be replaced by any competent person at home, as long as name-brand quality parts are used...

Note there are FOUR (4) components to a late model GM ignition switch: transponder ignition key, key cylinder, lock cylinder with transponder receiver, and the ignition switch (electrical part). The transponder stuff is part of the vehicle theft deterrent system, and cannot be bypassed.

* Same as immediately above WITH security light on or flashing: theft deterrent problem: TRY ANOTHER KEY (the transponder chip in the key head may be damaged). If no go, tow to a GM dealer to fix the theft deterrent system.

* Key won't turn (but is removable) : try another key. If no go, tow to a competent shop.

* Key is stuck in ignition switch: call a tow truck and check the bank account.

For GM vehicles that won't start but TURN OVER

(No start/cranks) : usually fuel system/throttle body problems. First things to check are the air filter (replace every 20K miles max) and fuel filter (replace every 50K miles max). Complete Electronic Throttle Body failures are common (i.e GM 4.2 engines) : they cannot be successfully cleaned, AND cleaning almost always damages the fragile internal sensors and motors. In-tank fuel pumps give out after many miles of struggling to push against a clogged fuel filter, which on almost ALL American made vehicles (GM/FORD/CHRY) are waaaaaaaay too small (fuel filters) ; when replacing the fuel pump, always replace the fuel filter, even if recently replaced.

Good luck all!

Jeff-Shumway dot com

(don't forget the dash!)

One additional thing about GM electrical system concerns, and this applies to ANY MAKE modern vehicle: if you use any of the following equipment in your vehicle (other than stock/from the factory), you’re automatically asking for vehicle trouble, mainly electrical system faults: high power aftermarket stereos, ANY aftermarket alarm system, navigation interface, cell phone interface, laptop interface, portable CD or DVD players… basically ANYTHING that plugs into an accessory jack (“cigarette” plug), or anything that has to be custom wired or plugged in somewhere. Plan on replacing the vehicle battery & certain fuses VERY often… alternators, modules/computers, and maybe some wiring too… you’re now advised….!.

Happy motoring!

Jeff-Shumway dot com

(don't forget the dash!)

Have a 2002 TrailBlazer. Battery goes dead after 10 to 12 hours. Charging system reads 14.5 to 14/8 volts. All is shut off in the truck. You know, dome lights and such. Have taken a multimeter and measured a 1.5 amp draw. Which I know is too much. You should only have 20 to 50 miliamp draw normally. Have nothing on the truck that is not factory installed.

Now this is the catch. The elect on the back door, hatch back, rear wiper and washer and door lock will not work. I disconnected the main power lead to the fuse box under back seat and the power draw stops. Can't leave it that way and operate the car safely. Some lights and things won't work. Have disconnected every known fuse and relay to eliminate the battery draw. Nothing has stopped the battery draw. Except taking the main cable lead away from the fuse box. Really gone as far as I know to go. Oh I disconnected the alt. power leads and tested the starter for current that should not be where it has to be. Even millivolts.

Haven't been to a dealer yet. That is the last resort. Diagnostics at 80 to 90 $ hr can get real expensive real quick. Can someone help?