The reason your Durango is shutting off when pulling of from the driveway is because it is not being warmed up properly. Same thing happened with my Durango. My mechanic told me to let it heat up for 5-10 minutes. You should try it.
Back when we had the oil crisis in the mid 1970's, there were a number of laws passed to improve fuel efficiency. One of them was intended to eliminate gas wasted by cars having to idle to warm up before being ready to drive off. I forget exactly how long the time limit was. But I think I remember it was something like a car had to be ready to drive off within 20 seconds of it being started. I am sure it was not something really long like 5 minutes. Also I am sure when the Durango was new, it did not require such a long warm up time. There is no way Dodge would even try to get a car like that approved for sale in the US.
Something is wrong with that vehicle, and there is a even some chance it qualifies for repair paid for by the manufacturer since this would be in violation of federal emissions laws. There are quite a few special requirements on manufacturers for mandated emissions and safety features. For instance, federal law requires any seat belt defect has to be paid for by the manufacturer for the life of any car, no matter how old it is.
I had a Honda Accord, it was the wort car I have ever owned, terrible quality from the first week. My Durango with Hemi is a far superior car in every way. No problems with what your talking about.
Yes, on a modern fuel-injected car, it is ridiculous to have to "warm up properly" before leaving the driveway. You start it, maybe let it idle in neutral for 10 seconds to circulate the fluids, and you should be ready to go. If not, there is something wrong. The "warming up" bit went out with carburetors 25 years ago.
I have a 03 Durango, and it started with the stalling also. Mostly on a turn, and yes the vehicle is always warmed up before driven. This Durango 4.7L is a peach, is treated very well and only has 58K on it, and still looks and drives like new.
So, here's what started to happen before stalling - Blower motor resister burned out 2 times, the second time it took the plug with it. I noticed, after fixed again for the 3rd time the blower motor would turn off on when making turns, then it started happening when I was idling in the drive way. Then the stalling started!!! As if the key was turned off, it stalled in driveway and it stalled just after making a right turn. Like I said, this truck is a peach, and over maintained and garage kept. After a minute or so - it would start again with no warning lights or check engine light on - as if nothing ever happened - Weird!
This is what I found and I hope it helps - I'm going to check over my truck tomorrow and test this following recommendation I found on another forum, and here it is!
OK - Found the problem!!!
The last comment I put was for my 03 Durango stalling after it burned out 2 blower motor resistors.
OK, found the issue with the stalling, and it is simple and not pretty either.
What happens is there was a short in the system due to a defective blower motor (that seemed to work properly) that was actually bad. The motor works fine, but there is too much resistance or load on the blower motor. This then feeds back to the resistor and blew it out.
WHAT EVERYONE DOESN'T KNOW THAT I AM SHARING, IS THAT - NOT EVEN THE DODGE GUYS KNOW ABOUT THIS ONE, AND HERE IT IS!
The short actually worked its way back to the ignition control box, which is on the left side (inside) of the steering column. The short puts too much of a load on the main power lead in the switch, and it gets warm and then just shuts the engine off without warning, and will even show NO CODES OR LIGHTS FOR THIS PROBLEM.
The switch is a black box that has a large cannon plug on it, and it controls the access/power/and start/run function of the truck. So when it shorts out - it's as if someone actually turned the key off on you while driving. Until I let it sit for a couple of minutes - the truck would start back up with no issues.
This black box works in line through a little shaft to the key that starts the truck. Since the short happens under normal key running operation - when it shorts, the truck will actually crank strong, but will not start. This is because the contact in the box, for continued running once you let the key go after starter kicks the motor over, is burned out.
So - I opened the box to find some things that were sad, - ONE - the black burn mark on the contact was noticed, TWO - The black box switch inside is a cheap 1920 style, cheap plastic 3 piece switch with no stamp on it where it was actually made. The stupid blower motor resistor from Dodge says - Indonesia, LOL. The Black box (ignition switch) said nothing but VELCO on it.
So if your truck stalls and the truck is equipped with a Power Steering Pressure sensor and it's fine, but still stalls - DO NOT GO CHANGING SENSORS THAT DO NOT TRIP A CODE, OR CHANGE A BATTERY UNLESS IT ACTUALLY NEEDS ONE, AND BY THE WAY? DO NOT CHANGE THE IGNITION KEY TUMBLER LOCK AND KEY SET FOR NOTHING - IT'S THE IGNITION CONTROL BOX!
PS - Recommend changing, cleaning and adding a few extra grounds to the truck - it helps. Also take note if the stalling happens when the blower motor is on. Most people leave them on while driving, even if it's on low.
Also if anyone is sick of factory wiring harnesses and dealer crap. Go to "Painless" wiring - they will make a new harness for a fraction of the cost of dealer imported cheap crap, replacement parts.
Cal at www.SpectorsInvestigations.com
The truck is our Ghost Rig - "Hallow 1". Love mo-pars, no matter how many times the factory tries to bend me over - I just go aftermarket and fix it myself. They can go pump themselves!
I have a 2004 Durango with the 4.7 L, and I also had the problem with the engine revving high and not going anywhere. The tranny had to be rebuilt twice, once at 70000 km, under warranty, and again at 145000 km, paid by me. It happened both times in the winter, below freezing. If you start the truck and try to drive away without it warming up for 2-3 minutes the problems start. At 185000 km its starting to act up again. To lessen the chances of another rebuild, I find that if you let it warm up for at least a minute, and slowly move from park to reverse to neutral to drive, with a one second pause in between, it seems to help. As a lifelong Dodge lover, I'm sad to say after the problems I've had with this truck, this will be my last Chrysler purchase.
I have a 2005 Dodge Durango and it started to stall out when turning or slowing down just powered off. I got the ERG valve changed and she never stalled again.
She revs in park to around 1000 RPMs but never higher. I had no other problems, but I am looking into why she does that in park.
Has the engine light ever come on? Maybe check the vacuum valves and this might cure the problem.
I have a 2005 Dodge Durango, and it also frequently stalls, but only when I back out of the driveway. I've found that backing out without turning the wheel, putting it in neutral for a few seconds first, then putting it in drive and keeping my foot on the brake for another few seconds puts an end to the stalls. Remember to keep the wheels straight until you put it in park! Crazy, but it works.
Found this to be a cooler filter part in the transmission. Doesn't allow fluid into the compartment quick enough. Usually after sitting for the night. The transmission is probably fine.
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