I also have a 1999 Dodge Durango, and being a single mother on unemployment, I don't have a lot of money to spend on different ways to "possibly" fix the problem.
My Durango has 125,000 miles on it, I bought it used in 2006 with 76,000 miles on it. With the exception of the gas mileage issue, this truck has always ran like a champ.
About 2 months ago, while in stop and go traffic, it stalled on me. After a couple of minutes it started right up, no problem. A month later I was on the freeway going 65 when it just died. Luckily I was in the right lane and was able to coast to the shoulder. 5 minutes later it started and I drove it right home, terrified.
2 weeks after that it stalled on the expressway, luckily I was in the right lane (on purpose, in case it did it again) It's happened several times since then, and it takes longer and longer to start back up. Now I won't even drive it. I've been told it was the fuel filter, but now after finding this website, I'm more confused than ever in what should be my first approach to solving this problem. I can't afford to replace all of the parts mentioned on this site that people have replaced, with and without success. I even checked the relay box, looking for the ASD relay, but couldn't find it, since the diagram in my owner's manual doesn't match what's really in the relay box.
Any suggestions? I still owe 4 payments on this truck, and am having to find rides back and forth to school.
1999 with 140k, owned since new.
Had transmission rebuilt a few months back (~$2200) when 2nd gear band material failed.
Recently had the "no bus" stalling issue. Would start back up once the gas gauge read properly. Did not seem to be a heat issue as it happened immediately after sitting in the shade for hours. Changed crank position sensor and Idle Air Control motor, but it did not help. They had enough miles on them that they were due to be changed anyway.
Installed new cam position sensor and a new PCM/ECM (book calls it PCM, others call it ECM) from autocomputerexchange.com (~ $250) and the problem has gone away.
Very happy with the truck, other than the no-bus issue. If you have this issue, focus on the PCM and the 5V sensors, and you should be able to find the issue without spending too much money. It sounds like the PCM fixes it for about 90% of the people, and the other 10% are a mixture of cam/crank position sensors, harness, or governor solenoid. Due to the nature of the issue, the computer is confused, so no codes are recorded. And the issue does not produce a solid failure mode, which also makes it difficult to troubleshoot. What is very frustrating is that Dodge does not own up to the problem, AND it seems as if their mechanics have never seen it.
Overall, the maintenance costs on this SUV have been reasonable. 10 years and 140k is about all I expect from an automatic in a larger vehicle. It still drives fantastic.
Well it sounds to me that all the "bad apples" found this site.
My back brakes smoked once... forgot the emergency brake release LOL.
135k, haven't had any problems with my 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 4x4 5.9ltr. You've got to realize you're driving a very heavy SUV here. Even if it does feel like a regular car, it's not!!! Drive it like a truck, a large heavy vehicle regardless of its Cadillac relativity and characteristics because that's what it is, a big truck.
Dodge Jeep Chrysler is an excellent manufacturer... if you got a bad apple,. Get. Rid. Of. It!!! There's some bad seeds in all aspects of life, not just "the Durango"
BTW... ABS problems? Unplug it under the hood; silver box, larger plug and use your good old common sense when braking. What did we do before ABS or rwal?...just slam into each other? I think not!!!
Justin, Clearwater, FL
This is the third year in a row that we've had stalling problems. It usually happens in warmer weather, and also occurs in cold weather after driving or idling for an extended period.
I describe it as if the vehicle isn't getting enough gas, the idling goes down and once you have to back off the gas (like going slow or stopping), the idling dies. It started off by dying when I would put it in reverse and back slowly, now it's grown to stalling when driving slowly.
At first, I thought it was vapor locked and would open the gas tank. You could hear a sucking sound when you first took the cap off and it would start after that. Now it doesn't make the sound and the gas cap doesn't seem to affect whether it starts or doesn't. Spent a ton of money, like everyone else. Can't just get rid of the car. Owe a little more on it and laid off from my job. No one will give me credit to trade it or buy a new one.
I'm filing a complaint with Dodge and refer them to this LONG feed of comments made by everyone here. I thank you all for joining together and making comments of what you've tried and what did/didn't work. Mechanics have run out full tanks of gas trying to duplicate the problem and it never happens. Told them you have to drive it, go fast, slow, try putting it in reverse and backing slowly, just sitting idling.. does nothing to duplicate the stall. Evidentally, $60hr isn't enough to make it worth their time to really try to diagnose the problem.
Mine was the issue of dieing anywhere including highway without warning. I was sure it was the ECM, because in the beginning when I wiggled the cables to the ECM, it would come on (signaled by the fuel gauge coming back on line) and I could start it again. It got worse and worse, and I got stuck in some sticky situations. I brought it to the dealer and told them it's the ECM, and they replaced it for $800 and it has worked ever since (5 years now).
Wish I had the used option at the time, but I looked all over the place with no luck. At the time, they did offer the hi performance Mopar ECM for less, but I would have then had to use premium gas, and that's not something I wanted.
I am about to replace my third failed computer. I have owned my 1999 Dodge Durango since November 1999 - currently have 139,000 miles on it. The first two PCM's were diagnosed with "failed ground". What that means in normal speech is constructed such that through normal wear and tear the ground connection fails. What a way to make $$, eh?
I have stalled in many locations where I live, regardless of temperature - once the computer begins to fail it must be replaced. However, replacing it isn't the end - it's just a temporary fix until the new PCM fails.
Today when I turned over my Durango, all gauges were working, I moved the key to start and after it turned over several times without starting I let the key move to run - the engine sounded like it started to burn fuel, then promptly fell quiet with all gauges immediately falling dead. Now I just get the "No Bus" error and appear to have a dead PCM. I have attempted the reset procedure (batter disconnect, key to start for 30 seconds), tried to read error codes (No Link can be established), and even tried disconnecting, inspecting, and reconnecting the three connectors from the PCM.
I love my Durango, but I am thoroughly put out with spending money on an issue that is clearly a design flaw.
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