I had the stalling problem last year with my 1998 Durango SLT. Replaced the battery and have not had that problem since, but now I will be driving along and the security light, ABS light, air bag light come on, and I lose the speedometer and odometer. The Durango keeps running, but it is very annoying. If I stop, shut off engine and restart, all is OK.
Think I'll cash in on the $4500 government rebate and get a Toyota.
I had a stalling problem with my 2005 Dodge Durango... Took mine to the only guy in the world who won't rip you off and he told me it was the ignition. I could replace it for X amount or just put my key in the right way so it doesn't happen. By the way he did not even charge me. Hope this helps.
Have a 99 Durango, stalled once a couple of weeks ago, then did the "no bus" issue and refused to restart after being parked for a couple of hours. I pulled the battery cable off and reset the PCM, then it came back to life. I ordered a PCM from a scrapped Durango, same part number. 2 questions: Must I have the vin and mileage programed? (any suggestions other than the dealer$hip?) and does anyone know WHY the IAC motor should be / needs to be replaced? Thanks much, Stan.
I have a 2000 Durango, 5.2L. After the engine runs for 30 minutes or more, the check gauge light turns on and the battery gauge reads about 9V, and the engine struggles to stay on,. I have to step on gas pedal to keep the engine running. Turned off the engine and checked the battery with Vmeter and it reads 12V (battery is less than a year old). Started the engine again and have to step on gas pedal to keep the engine running. While the engine is running, checked battery reading again with Vmeter and read 9V, same at alternator output connector. Suspected bad alternator – replaced.
With new alternator installed, ran engine again for 30 minutes or more, and the same problem, and this time battery gauge is all the way 0V when check gauge light lit. With engine still running, verified battery with Vmeter and read 12.5V, same at output of alternator. Turned off engine and checked battery with Vmeter again and read same, 12.5V. Turned on engine again and battery still read same (with Vmeter), 12.5V, same at alternator output.
Is new alternator still bad and should I replace it again, or is something else causing the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
We are having the same stalling problem as everyone else. A couple of occasions have been a near death experience, pulling a boat on the freeway, and brakes and steering go. Is there anyone out there that knows of a recall for this problem? It's a shame that Dodge can get away with this!!
I had this problem years ago on my 99 Durango 5.9.
What we found was a bad connection on the ECM board (mine was still under warranty (80,000) ). When you get the NO BUS message, you will see that none of the gauges will work, and the car will NOT start. After some time to cool off (and it will only get worse) you will see that the gauges again work when the key is turn to the ON position. Then the car will start. You can speed up the restart by leaving the key ON, and raise the hood, then wiggle the wiring plugs at the ECM, you will hear the fuel pump relay click, and then you are ready to restart, The problem is a loose solder connection on the factory ECM, and Dodge knows this.
I'm the owner of a 2005 Durango, and I'm having stalling problems also. I'll try the easy stuff tomorrow like fuel pump relay and checking all fuses, but I have a feeling that I'll be taking it to the mechanic Monday morning. I'm only having the idling problems that lead to stalling when stopped or slowing down fast, so I think that the IAC or TPS may need changing. Is this something that an amateur should attempt or leave to a mom and pop mechanic shop? The truck shut off on me three or more times while trying to take my wife out to dinner... so embarrassing!!
After reading many comments about the NO BUS signal and dealing with the issue for 3 summers, we have figured out several things. It used to happen when the outside temp reached 85 degrees. We ran an air duct from the grill to the computer mounted on the passengers side fender well. This allowed us to drive about 15 miles with outside temp reaching 89 degrees without issue. Now we have an igloo cooler cut down and placed over the computer, which allows us to drive about 25 miles in 89 degree temp. If we are going father than 25 miles, we carry ice in another cooler in the car. We will pack a bag of ice on top of the computer under the cut up cooler. This allows us to drive until the ice melts and we need to stop and ice the computer again. At least we are adventuring out way from home. Still rent a car when we go out of state in the summer months.
Next step is to build a box to seal off the computer and run a line from the A/C unit into the box. If it is hot outside, we are running the A/C and it should keep the enclosed computer cool enough to drive. Looking forward to fall when the temp drops below 85 so I can enjoy driving to work (46 miles one way) without stalling 3 times before I get home.
Got to love Dodge for stepping up to the plate on this one. Anyone interested in filing a class action suit to be reimbursed for our lost time and money. I read about near misses, how many have not been as luck as us, how many have been hit because the 99 Durango with the 5.9 just dies in temp over 85 degrees?
I just bought a used 99 Durago YESTERDAY with 160,000 miles on it. After showing the truck off to friends and family, I discovered it won't start. Read NOBUS, the fuel read empty when I knew it had a full tank. Luckily a friend of the family is a mechanic who knew to remove the plugs form the EMC and replace a few moments later. After reading these comments I'm not even going to try to fix it. I commute to school every day and have no interest in playing chicken with my life in traffic. Dodge should be ashamed. This is why folks don't buy American made anymore, I know I won't ever again.
I too have experienced the stalling out with my 99 Dodge Durango in this last month. I have had it well over a year and had no problems, but last month it just went brain dead in the middle of intersection. The day before, it died with no warning. I let it sit for 20 minutes, it came back and it started. Didn't think anything of it until the next day it died in traffic. No bus came on, and my gauges went crazy while being towed.
Well a month of trying to find a PCM for it and a lot frustration later, I found one. Well it is doing it just as bad now as before.
I got in, check engine light is on and it has never been on. Mechanic checked it, says it's the transmission solenoid.
My Durango has NEVER thrown a engine code, then when driving it in the mechanics parking lot, it doesn't shift, and my check gauges light came on. When I parked it, the gauges went dead, and when I put it back in reverse, it was fine and then back in park, it stalled out and died. We checked the battery and alternator, both are not charging and are reading really low volts.
So MY question is has anyone had luck with changing the sensors afterwards? Cause the mechanic thinks it's the PCM and I really don't wanna spend the money on shipping it across country a third time. GRR I am a Dodge person, but am totally beside myself that this is such a problem and they ignore it. SHAME on you Dodge, Shame on you.
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