I have a 2002 Dodge Durango. Check engine light is on, had the diagnostics run at Autozone. Came up with cam shaft position sensor and misfires in 3 of the cylinders. Replaced the cam shaft position sensor, now it stalls out when I am at a stoplight, I have to put it in park and keep the gas revving, then pop it into D to get it to go. Before this, I had surging and cutting out of power, no power loss and idling rough at stops. But since the camshaft replacement, it is stalling, help.
To follow up with my April 15th, 2010 issue of stalling:
I had several wires come loose from the harness that attaches to the computer, as well as the wires on crank shaft position sensor had frayed, causing a short when it got hot.
I had Christian Brothers Automotive do the following work:
1. New Chrysler computer (PCM) (I emphasize NEW!!).
2. New crankshaft position sensor with harness.
3. New governor pressure sensor and transducer.
Total Cost: $1,843.
I had tried 2 of the rebuilt computers from the source down in Florida, but the issue of the shorting out wires could have caused them to go bad or other things were wrong with them to begin with. Item #3 was performed, because the transmission would start out in 2nd gear in lieu of 1st, would not kick down into passing gear, and one time it stuck in 1st gear. Not sure if this was related to the stalling issue.
Replacing the above items, cleared all the codes with the check engine light, made the gas gauge work, transmission works fine, and the engine does not stall anymore. I have the wiring harness diagram for every needle point connection on my computer if someone would like it. Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
My 99 Dodge Durango (my dream truck); I have rebuilt the engine, which was supposed to be a 318; turned out to actually be a 360. New distributor, coil, IAC, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, wire plugs etc.
When I went to start it, there was a major backfire in manifold; blew the breather air filter apart, so I checked my timing. It acts like it wants to start, but will not. I have number one piston and TDC damper is on, TDC/o distributor rotor on 1, firing order checked and is correct. Now what do I need to do? There are no codes reading and no check engine light on. PCM seems to be fine. Any suggestions?
I had the same problem with mine. I replaced the computer and IAC valve, and it worked great. They have a problem with the posts on motherboard lifting once it warms up, and losing contact.
You know if you spent as much on a REMAN. computer as you did on the coolers and ice, it would be running ALL THE TIME, and you could put the ice in a cup where it belongs. PCMs are only $45 to $125. And they do not make YOU look like you shop at WALMART.
Did you ever get your Durango fixed? I have had new computers for mine, and it still stalls?
I need help.
Stalling, I too have a 1999 Durango, same scary problems, stalling at the worst times in traffic. Stalling just started with my Durango, I have about 166,000 miles on it. I replaced the purge valve (PV300 - Duralast @ $37.99) Working fine so far! Still keeping my fingers crossed though! This Durango has already ruined my trust in it. Hope this helps everyone.
I am the proud owner of a 99 Durango. I have changed transmission solenoid, idle air sensor, alternator. Still having the same problem. The alternator is over charging, and will not idle. Trans. will not shift 3rd gear only. Great vehicle. Thank you Dodge for manufacturing such quality products. I have to say I will not make the same mistake again. No more Dodges in my future!
I was wondering, it's been few years since you posted this, but I was wondering where is the lower crank case located? I think that's what making my Durango fault and knock.
I too am having this pretty much identical issue. I changed the fuel pump and started her up. Success. She ran for about 20 seconds, and then the engine turned off. I can't say it stalled, because it turned off like someone turned the engine off from the driver's seat. I cannot get her started again. So odd. Did you ever find out your issue? Thanks.
99 Durango SLT 5.9 4X4... Cranks but won't start. Replaced computer and it ran for about 4 months. No spark from coil - replaced coil, still nothing. Replaced lots of other sensors before the coil. This is my last Dodge of over 20.
My stall experience is at http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/dodge-durango/THCOG28290DFJE4QL/p3#c45
We have a 2000 Dodge 2500 van. It has started the same crap, but my fuel gauge registers empty. Wiggle the wire, peck on the box, and it starts.
Could we have the same trouble?
We have been having the same problem with our 1999 Dodge Durango that most everyone else has had. No BUS, and the car shuts down. We had had it in for repairs several times, and no one can fix it. Has Dodge addressed this problem, and if so, what can be done? We are are it the point of having to rent a car or walk. We have always enjoyed our Durango, but now is the time for Dodge to let us know what to do.
I'm having the same problem, and I've fixed numerous parts, and the light keeps coming on!!!
I'm an ASE Master Tech with years of experience. I had a 99 Durango with the 5.9 come in with random stalling. It had 3 codes stored; "po320 crankshaft signal loss", "po340 camshaft signal lost", and "p1396 (I believe) intermittent loss of cam or crank signal".
I drove the vehicle several times for 3 days trying to duplicate the stalling issue, but could not get it to die. I wiggled all the wiring for the cam sensor, crank sensor, and PCM, and again it would not fail. So we called the customer to come and pick it up, and within 10 minutes it stalled out on him (of course) so it was towed back in. When it arrived I started it and drove it into the bay (oh the irony). I hooked up my scanner to find the same codes again, then the engine stalled. While cranking the engine over and watching for cam and crank signal I saw it had no cam signal but a good crank signal. I printed out the schematics for the cam sensor and the flow chart. What I found was the "signal" wire from the cam sensor to the PCM (tan and yellow) was shorted to 5 volts. I unplugged the sensor with no change, so I traced the wire back to the PCM (connector 1, pin 18) and I cut it a few inches away (so I could splice it later). The wiring at the cam sensor dropped back to 0 volts, and the short wire leading to the PCM still had 5 volts. This means the PCM is shorted internally and has no way to monitor the 5 volt square wave from the cam sensor. I let it sit with the hood open for half an hour or so, then sure enough the voltage dropped to 0, so I spliced the wire back together and it started right up. It stalled again a couple minutes later and again had 5 volts on the signal wire of the cam sensor. The cam sensor is designed to send 0 volts to PCM when the rotor is not passing though the "window", then when the rotor is in the window it sends a 5 volt pulse telling the PCM it's made 1 revolution.
It's very important to use a scanner which is capable of reading live data stream as well as having a complete understanding of how the system is supposed to work. However I, like all the other mechanics you guys have used, was unable to diagnose the car until it finally died for me. As unhappy as my customer will surely be to have to spend over $1000 for a PCM replacement, I'm sure he will be relieved to not have this problem linger for years like some of you have had.
Good luck, and don't shoot the messenger (mechanic).