I had the same issues with my 99 Durango, replaced the BCM and the problem still persists. One time it quit, I felt the ECM under the hood and it was HOT to the touch. I poured 2 bottles of water over it and cooled it down, the vehicle started and I got home. Replaced the ECM and the problem has gone away.
Has anyone found the answer to the stalling Durango 5.9? I have just spent $2,000 on my 2000 trying to solve the problem with no results.
I have a 99 Durango with all the same issues. I just spent $770 to have the dealership replace the BCM, and now after 10 hours of diagnosing, they tell me it is the PCM. I am worried that all they want is more and more money, and it won't be right. Has anyone heard of them both having to be replaced, or should it have been the PCM to begin with?
My brother in law did the same thin. I replaced the speed sensor and it did the trick; got back his speedometer, and the other light went off.
Same problems as (most) all of you. The stalling, the no bus signal in the odo, no gauges, but in mine, the warning chime dings gauges go dead and it keeps on running. It only stalls under heavy braking, and then fires right off. Add to that the odo isn't counting ANY miles. There are (as many of you have stated) three (3) plugs on the PCM. Two (2) black and one (w) white (the white one is in the middle). The white one seems to be made of a Bakelite material (read: very cheap), and I'm wondering if it's possible to splice a new plug to replace the old one which is damaged (and yes, cheap). Has anyone had this problem or attempted a fix? Or do I ditch and run? I really like this truck though. I'm fighting the sour feelings at Dodge as I've had many of them... any help?
We replaced the computer on our '99 Durango, and the thing stalled on me again yesterday. Before it would take around 5 to 30 minutes and then start, but yesterday, after over an hour, I left it on the side of the road and came back. Then it started and ran perfectly.. I hate this, because we can't even sell the stupid thing unless I wanted to risk killing someone.
No bus means your computer has an issue. Replace the computer and it will be fine.
My Durango is doing the same thing.. Please let me know if you figure something out please..
No bus means no power. In the fuse box is a connection plug; it gets dirt in it. Pull it out and clean it. It's worked for us, and we changed the PCM. Crank shaft sensor, cam sensor and it still stalled. Check the battery too; very bad connections!
I have a 2001 Durango, and I have had some of the same problems as you. I will be driving, and it starts jerking, then it stalls, and then sometimes it stalls without warning. I have replaced the IAC TPS tune up and other sensors, and I have spent about 1300 dollars so far. I had the ignition harness replaced, fixed for a week, then without warning it died again. I can't figure out what is causing it? Is it the crank sensor, or is it something else? My mechanic said the PCM should be last looked at, as it's the most expensive, but I like my vehicle, but I'm running out of money to keep throwing into it for the same problems. Anyone have an answer?
I know the answer to everybody's random stalling; it's the stupid connectors on the PCM; the pins must be spread out or something. Next time your Durango stalls, open the hood, find the PCM next to your air filter to the left, grab the three connectors and move them around in, out, and side to side, while having the key in the ignition right before starting the car. If you get it right, you'll hear the fuel pump come back on and your gauges work. You'll never have to wait another minute again stalled. That is the problem; stop wasting your money on computers, sensors, etc. It's the connectors!!
I have a 99 Durango that I bought used from my in-laws 3 years ago. I loved my truck until this summer; every once in a while, I would start it and it would die when I took my foot off the gas. My husband would take it around the block using two feet, and after a few rounds it would be fine. It only happened every couple of weeks or so.
A month ago my transmission cooling line came off when I was driving down the road, and I lost all my tranny fluid. After fixing the line and putting 8 1/2 quarts of fluid in, it worked fine for a couple of days, then it started stalling/fainting. I had my battery and alternator checked at the auto part store, and all read fine. So I had my battery clamps changed, and it ran good for an hour or so, then I got the tune up stuff (called some places, including Dodge, and most said to change the distributor cap). My husband did the tune up (cap, rotor, wires and plugs), took it for a drive, and it still stalls.
I read on here to mess with the ECM/PCM, and I did, and it started right up, but I noticed today when it stalled and wouldn't fire right up, I turned the key to the on position and sat in the car, and after about 10 minutes my gauges came back to life, and I could start the car???
I am so lost; I depend on this truck every day.
Is anything that happened this year to my truck related symptoms, or is it just luck that it all happened around the same time?
And does anyone know how to fix it?
I have the 99 Durango with the notorious stalling issue. I put a 400.00 fuel pump in, but it still stalled.
Took it to my mechanic, and left it on the computer till it had a fault; it was the door chime module. I found one from a junkyard and had it put in. I didn't think a door chime module could possibly fix this problem, but it has not stalled since, but I'm still scared to go too far from home in it.
I wish I could say it was definitely fixed, but I'll just have to wait and see. It did cut down the stalling, but I would not take it on a trip...
In most cases due to stalling, if there is no check engine light, replace the pick up coil in the distributor... Spend the 90 bucks or less and get a Mopar unit. It's better to have that peace of mind when you go for your long road trips.
Same problem with my '99 Durango. It is the PCM (Powertrain Control Module). You can get a re-manufactured one online for about $225. The dealership wants $600 for the part and $190 for labor for the same thing.
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