1st Nov 2008, 01:27
I bought a 2002 SE in 2003 and thought I was getting a great deal. 2 months later 1st shifter cable broke... 2 weeks later broke again. 1 year later broke again, 9 months later again. 13 months later again...etc.
Shifter cable breaking every year. Covered under warranty (expires in 2020) until the annual breakage in 2007 when dealer informed me that from now on Dodge will require a $50 deductible, which I steadfastly refused since it is an ongoing problem. I said... that means that I will have to pay $50 next year when it breaks too. It was a fight but finally Chrysler agreed to wave the deductible.
Last month it broke again... same fight but they were even more nasty... even tried to say it was breaking because I MUST be parking on a hill without setting parking break (not true).
Next year's shifter cable break should be interesting... Avoid this vehicle!!!
2nd Nov 2008, 19:26
2004 Dodge Intrepid 2.7 DOHC V6.
I went in and replaced the thermostat, thinking that it was the gasket that was leaking, but that was not my problem. I have found where the coolant is coming from, but don't know how to fix it. There is a hole that looks like a bolt belongs in it, but is not threaded, and it is right below the thermostat housing. I was wondering if anyone has any input on how to fix this? Maybe a response or an email firstname.lastname@example.org
6th Nov 2008, 07:05
I have owned a 2002 Dodge Intrepid SE with the infamous 2.7L engine for about eight months now. I purchased the car used. After having numerous problems the engine oil light started coming on at low RPM when stopped for a light or any other reason. When I accelerated it would go away. I replaced the oil pressure sending switch and problem went away for about 60 days then came back as before.
One day the oil light came on and wouldn't go out. I immediately pulled over and shut the engine off. After allowing sufficient time for the engine to completely cool, I cranked it up again and the light was still on. I had the car towed to my local shop where it was diagnosed that the engine needed to be replaced. The mechanic said it appeared the top end was being starved for oil. As I've always changed my oil religiously, I was pretty upset, but figured the car was used and may not have been properly cared for by the previous owner.
I replaced the engine with a used one with approximately 60,000 miles on it. This motor ran fine for about 30 days and then the oil light came on it also. My mechanic replaced the oil sensor switch again and the problem appeared to be solved. It is now about 6 months later and the oil light is back again at low RPM while the car is in gear.
This motor is a lemon and I've heard nothing but horror stories about it. Avoid this engine at all costs unless you like constant repairs.
7th Nov 2008, 00:40
I have a 1999 Dodge Intrepid. I replaced the whole engine, but 3 cylinders are not firing. It has compression and spark, but won't start. I changed the PCD; nothing happened. The 3 cylinders are in line. What's happening? I was thinking of changing all 3 injectors, but it can't be all 3 bad in line.
13th Nov 2008, 11:40
I purchased a '02 Dodge, a year ago. From the second day I got it home, every time I would come to a stop it would get stuck in 2nd gear. I would have to turn it off to reset the computer. At any rate, the next day it was in the shop, on the way to the shop the Highway patrol pulled me over saying I was going too slow, my car had jumped into second, "I wasn't aware at this time to shut it off to reset the computer" I had my flashers on not going over 20 miles per hour.
I called the transmission mechanic, where I was trying to get it to. He's the one to advise me to turn it off to reset the computer and it works. But, during the past year, they have replaced everything in the transmission, with no code showing up, just guess work. Came to find out after a year it was the computer all along. It wasn't using any oil or leaking water etc. Now when I get it back, I can't even pass the states emission code. My check engine light isn't coming on.
I'm wondering if the computer they replaced isn't registering maybe the oxygen sensor, ECM or what have you, it has the symptoms of oxygen sensor, smoking, more than average heating on the gauge, replaced radiator, thermostat.
Also I maintained my car and changed oil every 2000 miles. Just always been my way. It has been in the shop the entire year except for 2 months. Now the left driver is squealing I'm thinking brakes but still am not sure. At any rate I have had to pay out over 3000.00 on working on this car. Even though the shop wasn't fixing it correctly, just guess working I still had to pay.
Now that I do believe I'm having emissions problems, the check engine light isn't coming on at all, which is mostly related to smoke low gas mileage etc... Which is what I told the mechanic to begin with, to do the emissions. Instead he replaced a fuel line I didn't need, and now the car smokes worse. Still no check engine light, since this new computer. Wasn't there a certain computer on this car 2.7 that had a recall on the computer? I do believe I remember something of this fact from a few years back.
I am on disability, and they have depleted me of everything I have. I am to no avail. I know I won't get back out of it what I paid. I have no choice but to keep it. Does anyone know if this smoking and raising in temperature is affiliated with the emissions? Only coming out 1 tail pipe from what I can tell; the left side one.
So exhausted and aggravated with this car. I do at times hear a subtle ticking. My father is a mechanic and I check all my fluids 1 to 2 times a week, and very regular oil changes. I'm tired. I'm not sure if there is a class action suit or not, but like to be advised if there is one. My email is email@example.com. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
28th Dec 2008, 11:48
I bought a 2002 2.7 Intrepid about 9 months ago. I am getting all the same problems everyone else in this site is having: oil light flickering, check engine light coming on and then going out after a little while, coolant bell housing leaking on the top of the engine, the pain to change the thermostat, at high speeds shimmy of the wheel, and best of all a water pump.
Just a few notes to get you all going from my experience. coolant bell housing leaking no matter how little of a leak if you have the plastic bell housing with the metal bleed valve replace it immediately. Go to your local dealer ship and get the new hose and have them replace it. They have redone the line and it is all now metal to keep it working correctly. Here is the problem when the plastic "cap" leaks there is no way to "fix" it with out replacing it. Just letting the little leak go for a while will cause that cap to blow off and blow fluid all over your engine and leave you stranded... it happened to me. Cost for me was 130 for the line and 200 in labor...
Thermostat... Who ever in the world came up with the idea to put it under the engine behind the exhaust manifold needs to have a talking to. First of all it cost me 150 to replace it... (wow, can't believe I paid that either, should have just ran hot) and then second it kept leaking due to my mechanic messing up. I know, bad guy to go to, never again; he charged me 100 again to take it off and put it back on, only to find out that he didn't get it all tight because of how hard it is to get to.
Now the best part... water pump. Went to a mechanic (not the same that did the thermostat) to get a quote. He looked it up and said nope, will not touch. I then went to a second place and got the same reply. So I asked why.. That's when he told me about it being internal and that almost everything on the front of the engine had to come off. Wow, never heard of that, looked it up and sure enough it almost all does. And who puts a water pump inside of a engine to where it leaks and mixes with oil. What a concept. Well anyway to replace the water pump, it's going to cost me 711 after taxes and everything just in labor.
Oh, one last note for you all, don't try and replace this battery on this car without having a jack stand. Cause guess what, you have to take the passenger tire off, take the wheel well covering off, take the air filter canister off, just to disconnect the battery and pull it out of the wheel well (another great concept)
As for the other things I mentioned before, I still have not found a fix for them yet.
Now for the good notes on this car since I got it. Rides smooth, great for long distances (except for the shimmy). Very nice looking car (that's why my wife wanted it). And that's about it.
I know it's kind of late, but I keep hearing about all this info about class action suits. Don't know if I qualify, but I still would like to know what is going on just in case I need to know more about this car. Before I can get the stuff together to trade it in and get out from under it. Hey that's a concept, everyone trade this car in and get a Chevy. There you go. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have any info thanks.