Comments: 1-15, 16-30, 31-45, 46-60, 61-75, 76-90, 91-93
I bought a 2002 2.7 Intrepid about 9 months ago. I am getting all the same problems everyone else in this site is having: oil light flickering, check engine light coming on and then going out after a little while, coolant bell housing leaking on the top of the engine, the pain to change the thermostat, at high speeds shimmy of the wheel, and best of all a water pump.
Just a few notes to get you all going from my experience. coolant bell housing leaking no matter how little of a leak if you have the plastic bell housing with the metal bleed valve replace it immediately. Go to your local dealer ship and get the new hose and have them replace it. They have redone the line and it is all now metal to keep it working correctly. Here is the problem when the plastic "cap" leaks there is no way to "fix" it with out replacing it. Just letting the little leak go for a while will cause that cap to blow off and blow fluid all over your engine and leave you stranded... it happened to me. Cost for me was 130 for the line and 200 in labor...
Thermostat... Who ever in the world came up with the idea to put it under the engine behind the exhaust manifold needs to have a talking to. First of all it cost me 150 to replace it... (wow, can't believe I paid that either, should have just ran hot) and then second it kept leaking due to my mechanic messing up. I know, bad guy to go to, never again; he charged me 100 again to take it off and put it back on, only to find out that he didn't get it all tight because of how hard it is to get to.
Now the best part... water pump. Went to a mechanic (not the same that did the thermostat) to get a quote. He looked it up and said nope, will not touch. I then went to a second place and got the same reply. So I asked why.. That's when he told me about it being internal and that almost everything on the front of the engine had to come off. Wow, never heard of that, looked it up and sure enough it almost all does. And who puts a water pump inside of a engine to where it leaks and mixes with oil. What a concept. Well anyway to replace the water pump, it's going to cost me 711 after taxes and everything just in labor.
Oh, one last note for you all, don't try and replace this battery on this car without having a jack stand. Cause guess what, you have to take the passenger tire off, take the wheel well covering off, take the air filter canister off, just to disconnect the battery and pull it out of the wheel well (another great concept)
As for the other things I mentioned before, I still have not found a fix for them yet.
Now for the good notes on this car since I got it. Rides smooth, great for long distances (except for the shimmy). Very nice looking car (that's why my wife wanted it). And that's about it.
I know it's kind of late, but I keep hearing about all this info about class action suits. Don't know if I qualify, but I still would like to know what is going on just in case I need to know more about this car. Before I can get the stuff together to trade it in and get out from under it. Hey that's a concept, everyone trade this car in and get a Chevy. There you go. Email me at kendellascheller@yahoo.com if you have any info thanks.
I too have the Dodge 2003 Intrepid SE... this car is a piece of work indeed.. After paying for the car in full, it ran like a dream.. I have kept it as well maintained as required..
Recently I've noticed there's a violent shaking in the front tires, & it gets worse when I apply the brakes.. this happens at various speeds, which you can imagine how frightening that can be...
I've already had the water pump issue.. twice...
To add insult to injury, I can't pass the state emissions test.. says my system is not ready?? His advice was to drive the car. I now have no tags???... can't sell it. Can't drive it... Caught between a rock & a very hard place...
Any class action information? djpuppycat@hotmail.com
My 2002 Intrepid is the best car I've ever owned. We bought it used with 29K on it. Regular maintenance has kept the car running like new at 135K miles.
I've read all these posts and would like to point out one thing I see missing. Most all of the posts that experienced oil sludge issues are missing one critical service item. The Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (PCV) when replaced routinely every 10-12K miles at $5 a crack has kept me sludge free with a non-synthetic oil. I do use the same brand every oil change at 3K miles.
I also rotate the tires every time I change the oil, and proper air pressure has enabled me to get 85K on a set of Michelin Harmonys. The resulting good ride has kept the suspension in good order as well.
Lastly, I give the engine a bath with Foamy Engine Brite once a year as I feel a clean motor just plain "feels better" and will treat you better (plus you can see early signs of leaks should they arise).
This is our second of three Chrysler products. Our first was a Caravan that we traded after 180K miles. The jury is still out on the Jeep as it only has 50K, but I have nothing but complete and utter faith in the product Chrysler puts on the road if you just take care of it.
Best wishes and good luck to all.
P.s. The 2002 Intrepid has its original battery too!!!
I have a 2002 Intrepid. It has a 3.5 V6 DOHC High Output engine. It used to be a police car. The only problem I am having with it is sometimes when I push the gas, it goes, but it is slow then it catches and takes off. The engine light will blink 5 or 6 times, then I hear a bell and it runs good after that.
The only codes I have on it now are a heater sensor and O2 sensor, but don't know which one. Transmission fluid pressure sensor, and rapid misfiring. Other than that it runs good. Even with all these codes, it still runs like nothing is wrong.
Before someone says did I clear the codes out, yes I did, and those codes I mentioned are recent. What could be making it not want to go sometimes when I push the gas?
I have owned a 2002 Intrepid with the 2.7L engine for 5 years. I love the styling, size and ride, but boy o' boy, this car has taken me for a ride! I've replaced the water pump ($800), the alternator ($600) and the engine ($5400). Now the transmission has shifted into "limp" gear and signaled the need for a "solenoid pack". Heaven only knows whether that will actually fix it.
My advice to anyone owning or thinking of owning an Intrepid with the 2.7L engine and A6 transmission is to drive down the Interstate and throw $100 bills out the window. It will be good practice for what's coming. Yes, the car looks great, handles great and rides great, but it's a repair bill waiting to happen.
There are those on this site who are quick to tell you that when the engine, cooling and transmission problems occur they're your fault. You've been a bad owner, they say. I say "bull". There are simply too many common complaints about these issues to point at anything but poor engineering or shoddy manufacturing. The "internal" water pump is an excellent example of the latter.
Again, if you own an Intrepid with the 2.7L engine, I urge you to run to the nearest hardware store and buy a FOR SALE sign. You will not regret selling the vehicle, but you most likely will regret keeping it.
Mike
6/14/09.
I just purchased a used 2002 Intrepid and I'm "assuming" it has the infamous 2.7 engine (I really don't know). This is my problem... I don't know! I admit that I didn't do my homework, my old car (which I loved, a 96 Bonneville with 192+K miles) finally died on me. With having to get to work, church and a new grandchild I was desperate to get another vehicle and one I didn't have to finance for long. So what do I do... go to a local (and recommended by a family member) dealer who does buy-here, pay-here.
Well a WEEK after I got the car home, it starts running hot. I'm sitting in it, on a hot day on the bridge in traffic after a long day at work. The gauge goes almost to the highest level. I pull off to a gas station, let it cool then check the coolant. Empty. I add fluid and think that's it. No, it shut off on me and I was stuck.
I called the dealer (with some choice words) and made him tow it and fix it. He said it was the pressure cap on the coolant; the rubber was stripped and it wasn't pressurizing. Fixed it last week.
This week it started with the slow acceleration and the AC/heat only comes on at full blast. I called the dealer again, he said it may need a resister - I've been calling him everyday for a week. I'm taking the car to him tomorrow and telling him to fix it, replace it or keep it. After reading these posts I don't even want it anymore. Sure it looks great, silver SE, almost sport-carish. But who the heck cares if you can't drive it for it being in the shop every other week. And who has money for that? Heck, I may as well have gotten the engine on my Bonneville (which I loved) fixed!
Oh one more thing...sludge. I got to this site checking to see how to rid the car of sludge. I looked inside the engine cap and OMG, I was mortified. Even before reading this I figured..."this is bad". Now I'm petrified. I have only had the car three weeks so I haven't done a oil change or any maintenance, so I don't have any receipts. At this point however, it seems more like the dealer's problem than mine. I'm prepared for a fight, but I also have a handy thing on my side... it's called the LEMON LAW and I'm prepared to use it if I must.
Oh and for all the talk of a so-called Class Action suit, I have not seen anyone post where and who and how to get involved. Hype?
My daughter bought a Dodge Intrepid 2002 and have had to replace thermostat housing 4 times. The dealer said that the last time that we needed to use dodge parts as they have redesigned the housing. Well 6 months at the most later and guess what, her car broke down today, leaving her stranded. I don't know what to do. She is upside down on the loan and I'm going to call the dealer in the morning and hope he has some kind of decency to help me. Thank God I have road side service to tow her car. But that doesn't make me feel any safer having her drive this car. Does anyone know of any class action suit? Please email me at linda_ross88@hotmail.com Thanks.
I have an 01 Intrepid. I bought it in 02. For the most part it has been a pretty decent car. It is the only car I have ever driven with over 80k miles on it. It currently has 130k.
My oil light flickers at idle. It has been doing this for about 3 years. I regularly check the oil. I have not been real good about changing the oil just because it is hard to get to a dealer to get it done, and have had 2 different places screw the oil change up. I guess I need to learn how myself.
My transmission leaks fluid, more so in the winter months. I check this level also, and add as needed.
Most recently my car overheated, it is the thermostat housing. I have noticed some build up in this area for quite some time, I just did not know what it was. I just hope my $250 fix is a one time fix, as I have to keep this car for awhile longer as I help my son through college.
Keep me posted about any class action suits also chris4charlie@aol.cm.
I have a 2002 Dodge Intrepid w/V6 2.7L engine. It is certainly giving me trouble. I agree class action lawsuit should be the way to go.
Bought my 2003 V6/2.7 on July 16, 2009. Seemed to run great nice car!!
On July 24th all that changed. On the turnpike the oil lite came on. Stopped to check oil, which I did before leaving that day also. It was fine. So I kept driving, but the light stayed on. All of a sudden the car started bucking and clanking. Pulled over and it stalled. Had it towed to mechanic, they said needs a new engine!! Sludge!! Is there a way that the dealer could have masked this problem before selling the car if he had known about it??? Is there any way to fix this if the engine was not blown?? This really stinks; should have done my homework. I am broke with no transportation now.
I have a 1999 SE. Bought her 5 years ago with 25k on her. After 1 year the engine was shot. We called Cotton. I'm not sure if any of you know of old school NASCAR driver Cotton Owens, if not Google his name.
He put a 3.2 V6 in and modified it to suit his wants and needs. Knock on wood, I haven't had any problems with the engine.
Now the air conditioner is another story...
I wish I didn't love driving that car... but I do!
GiGi.
I have so many comments right now I don't where to start. Almost every entry I have seen on the 2002 Dodge Intrepid has been my experience, and then some...
Stopping or slowing down can cause the car to buck or even shut off... happened to me while turning a corner, which means no power steering.
Took short trip... on the highway the car would not go over 60 mph without bucking.
Dec 24, 2008... Bypass gasket blew off. Approx 250.00 to have fixed. Feb. 2009... same problem, mechanic was nice enough not to charge.
July 2009... water pump problem. Took three weeks to fix, almost a $2000 repair, lasted two days.
August 2009... same water pump problem, it is now Sept, the car is still at the shop. (crossing my fingers, I will have it back in two days).
The real kicker is I have only had this car for 4 years, have another year to go, guess I should have found out if it qualified for "CASH FOR CLUNKERS".
Just posted a comment on the 2002 Dodge Intrepid, but I forgot to add another problem, the windows, A/C and turn signals will not work if the ignition switch is not in the exact spot. If you jiggle the key with the A/C switch on, you can hear the compressor kick on, then you know the windows and turn signals will work.
DO NOT invest in a 2002, 03, 04 or whatever INTREPID! I bought it 6 month ago at 57,000 miles, because it was my favorite car. In that time span, I've driven about 10,000 miles, and have spent $800 in repairs.
It gets worse. The repairs so far have included the radiator bursting, which cause the coolant to explode and the engine to overheat. Getting the radiator fixed 3 months ago was $250.
Prior to that, my engine light came on at 61,000, and I took it to the dealership. Let's just say $550 in repairs.
A month ago (6th month of having the vehicle), I saw a trail or coolant in my driveway, so I figured it's not good. Took it in, and the water pump needed to be fixed. NOW, most cars cost maybe $400-600 to fix it, but since the Intrepid is so big and sporty, it costs $1200. I would take it to the local mechanic, but why waste money on this car every 2-3 months for repairs? I mean, it has a base 2.7 engine, so I'm sure that'll crap at 90,000, with the frequency of issues with the car, I'm sure this won't be the last repair before Summer 2010.
Funny thing is, I upgraded to this from a 87 Taurus, which I thought was bad... WRONG! Anyone who thinks about an Intrepid, please don't! There's a reason why they stopped making them, and this has got to be it.
The only positives, are the space, it does accelerate pretty nice, and it looks nice. BUT, to counter all of that, the brakes aren't that great, the A/C encounters problems, and the sound system sucks completely. Perhaps the worst factory system I've had in a car.
I too own a 2002 Dodge Intrepid with the 2.7 liter engine. I am so completely over trying to work on this engine. Water leaks start out as a broken hose and end up to be somewhere else, water pump, water tube under the intake manifold, thermostat housing seal. Can't work on any of these places. I haven't been able to bend my arm backwards yet. Had the intake manifold actually melt (it's plastic). The mechanic charges an arm and both legs but if you want it fixed, its gonna cost big $$$. The car is great when it runs, flickering oil lights, engine lights on and transmission failure. I have had the codes chased and once you fix one item and the code goes away another one pops up. What's up with that? Can't afford to get another car and can't afford to keep dumping money into this one. Decisions, decisions.