It sounds as if you own a 4x4 and are taking it off road on a regular basis. That could cause a "whining" rear axle if it is not given time to properly break in after rebuild. I have a friend who owns a Dodge 4x4 and had the first transmission replacement at 277,000 miles. I own a 5.9 2001 Ram and have ample torque and horsepower from the factory to tear the tires off of it. The only thing I can think of is to check to see if you are losing oil, where the vehicle was manufactured, and if it was manufactured outside the U.S. (esp. Mexico) and is losing oil, either repair the intake valley pan gasket, or get rid of it due to improper torquing processes throughout the vehicle and find one made in this country.
My Father works for Daimler Chrsyler, I am well aware of typical maintenence and even specific things that need to be watched for on my Ram. I do not "off-road" at all, the 4 wheel drive has only been used in the snow. Nice try, but this truck has no excuse, it has been meticulously maintained by myself and my relatives in automotive repair.
Find another vehicle made in this country? My pockets aint as deep as yours. Oh and by the way, the vehicle was made at my father's plant in Fenton Missouri. 277,000 miles on a Chrsyler tranny, ha... the guy must have that secret snake oil in it. They're gettin better, but nobody is that good.
You seem to have had quite some trouble with your vehicle. Dodges are notorious for their transmission troubles, this is fact. A diesel engine is always superior to a gasoline engine, especially in a truck. If you think having a V8 or V10 gasoline engine is going to net you some good mileage, you're absolutely out of your mind. I currently own a 2001 Ram 2500 with the Cummins turbo diesel, and aside from the notorious transmission problem around 75,000 miles and some routine maintenance, it's been fine. I switched the truck to fully synthetic soon after I got it, and that has helped keep it in the good condition it is in. In regular city settings I get 16-18 mpg, and pulling a heavy load on the highway I get 14-15. Get a diesel.
Maybe your truck is tuned for torque and not horsepower. People sometimes cannot tell the difference...
You cannot complain about brakes on a big vehicle like this, they will not last as long as other smaller vehicles.
Your lack of power could also be a problem, maybe a tuneup is needed? Or something is in the injectors?
I have a 2001 quad cab I've had since it was new and really like it. I've had no major problems, but I've noticed the dash is starting to crack. I knew earlier models had this problem, but it shocked me when I saw it. Does anyone know a solution for a cracked dash?
I own a 2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab with the 5.9. And I agree with it's lack of power for the fuel economy that it develops. not to mention that I have had to have the heads replaced on the engine twice due to the heads cracking between the valves. several dodge dealerships have told me that this is typical with this particular engine. I traded in a Chevrolet Z71. it got 18 MPG on the highway (this dodge does about 12) and it pulled a trailer and had passing power well above the dodge. the only thing about the dodge I love is the solid front axle and seemingly bombproof suspension (I farm and trust me a truck gets worked to death around here.)
And my engine light has stayed on for about a year, and we have given up trying to figure out what is doing it (even the dealership gave up)
My '85 Dodge 4x4 has over 250,000 miles on the original engine and transmission, never a rebuild on either, just scheduled fluid and filter changes. That is the old 727 Torqueflite 3-speed, which in my opinion is one of, if not the most, durable automatic transmissions ever built. I have the same opinion of the 318 to which it is attached. Maybe by the late 1990's, Dodge had lost sight of how to build things that durable. Perhaps they got washed up when they dropped the 318 and 727, and came out with the "4.7 Liter" and overdrive automatics.
Hello to all of the people who have had to deal with Dodge. I like the truck seeing it's my first one. Buy not to mention the used dealership who sold it; they didn't even continue my warranty so when I took it in I had some issues like.
Check engine light coming on: due to fuel pump - fuel regulator. The pump works; it's the regulator that knocks the idle into a misfire.
The proportioning valve for the ABS system leaks at the bottom valve. 9/10 lasts.
The dash cracks due to Arizona heat 120 degrees (can't do much about that).
Rear end needed repacking @ around 133,800 miles.
I do have a favor to ask. Does anyone know if you can replace the regulator instead of the whole fuel pump module? I am going to try it. I just need to see if it is possible to do in order for the idle to return to normal?
Toyota is and always have been that good. :->
I have a 2001 Dodge 1500 5.9L. Its gas mileage is normal to be expected.
The only problem I have with it is the rear differential is winding like crazy, due to the pinion gear is going out.
The water pump went out 2 times due to the bearings in the pump.
The heater core went out once, now that's a pain in the butt to replace.
Front brakes go out about 20,000 every time.
Besides all the problems, I guess I'll keep my little baby after all.
Hey... I am about to buy a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 sport and it's in great body and working condition... but this is going to be my first car and I am hoping I can get some extra advice... so any advice would be greatly appreciated... thank you.
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram Sport with a 318 with 67500 miles on it. I bought it brand new off the lot.
Only had 1 problem check engine light on due to the cracked evap lines. That's it. Some of you guys most be treating your trucks bad. I take care of my truck, but I take it on some mild off roading every couple of weeks and still don't have problems.
20000 miles on brake pads, what do you expect when you're trying to stop a 6500lb or more truck.
I have a 2000 1500 4x4 with the 5.9 motor, love it. I have had no problems with it, but my proportioning valve for the ABS system is leaking at the bottom valve. It looks easy to change, but I am not sure what all is involved. 4 brake lines, an electrical line and one mounting bolt. Can I just bleed the brakes like an old skool car, or with the ABS will I need special tools?
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