Engine/Electrical Problems:
500 KM on the car, engine shuts off in motion.
Dealer could not duplicate, computer did not record therefore didn't happen.
1000 KM on the car, engine shut off in motion on highway, came inches from hitting a pole.
Dealer could not duplicate, computer did not record therefore didn't happen.
2200 KM on the car, engine shut off in motion going around a corner, nearly rear-ended someone.
Complained heavily to dealership, they reprogrammed CPU in car.
10,000 KM on the car, hey no problems so far, car shut off in motion on highway 7 times on way to dealership. Previous work done was repeated with the reprogramming.
20,000 KM on the car, dealership had my car for 4 weeks, tested, found problem while running car on dyno for nearly 12 hours. CPU randomly decides the car should be off, no technical or reasonable explanation offered by mechanic or Ford for the issue, CPU Replaced. No problems yet, but I'm sure they'll be back.
Other issues:
Trunk Leaks, cannot find where it leaks from yet though.
Suspension pretty much blew out at 20,000 KM.
Transmission clunks into gears.
Clutch pressure seems to randomly come and go.
It was a fun drive until the engine issues starts, so the first 450km or so where pretty good. After that its been downhill. Now you may think I beat the hell out of this car, but in actuallity we use my wifes car for most everything as we're afraid of driving this car long distances.
The farthest I have driven it is work and back+ around the city. Most driving is light as its not a sports car, but I have to say the interior is nice. The pick up and go isn't bad on the engine when its running, and overall I'd say the car is semi-OK, the quality of the product is horrible and the manufacturer is even worse in support.
Probably want to check the IAC for the stalling problem. If the engine cuts out while your foot is on the accelerator that might be the problem.
IAC - Idle Air Control...
Although I see where your going with that, the car is in motion, and from what I understand of the IAC this only kicks in while the car is going from high to low speeds, in neutral, or at idle. My problem is at a constant velocity speed of 100km/h seems to be the sweet spot, and the engine cuts out at speed without any change in velocity.
Thank you for the suggestion however, I'll suggest that to the dealership on my next near death experience:) haha.
The next time it happens, see if you left or right signal lights work while the problem is occurring. If the engine cuts out and your signal lights don't work at the same time, it probably is the ignition switch. Note that I'm not referring to the the ignition lock cylinder that you put the key into... I'm referring to the switch that the key lock turns on the ignition when you turn the key.
I had that *exact* problem on an old Honda.
In my case, the car would start fine, but as I drove, the keychain attached to my car key would swing just enough to make the worn switch cut out the ignition.
This would happen at any speed at any time except when I wasn't moving.
When you look at these switches (I replaced it myself) you can understand why they fail... basically there is a metal piece that comes out of the ignition lock cylinder that goes into the switch. The area that it goes into on the switch is plastic and will wear out sooner or later. Once worn out, it does strange things like turning off if you giggle or apply pressure the key in a certain way.
Hope this helps.
Five documented instances of the same problem within 20000km...I would lemon law the car, except if you're talking about kilometers, you're not in the US.
See if there is a lemon law in your country. No car should die randomly. I have a $300 Chevy Celebrity with a blown head gasket that no one wants to buy from me. But I do know that I can fill the radiator with water, top off the oil, and drive anywhere I want and it won't die on me. Why would I ever spend $15-20K on a new car that just randomly shuts itself off? I gave away my $300 laptop after it started crashing and bought an older laptop for $100. Maybe old technology is better, yes, no?
Unfortunately Canada has some very "loose" lemon laws which ultimately end up with you keeping the car, just forcing them to keep fixing it, or trade it in, but at your loss. In the end, its not a very helpful process and not too many are willing to assist from the phone calls I've made and inquiries sent to various agencies that claim to assist with new vehicle issues.
The issue, after having my car in the shop for 5 weeks straight, and the dealer able to reproduce it after dyno'ing the car for 12 hours is that the CPU was malfunctioning and would decide at a random interval that the car should no longer be on and would just shut off. As stupid as this sounds this was the explanation given no matter how hard I pushed for a real answer/explanation. Cost of part was $1050.00 CAD + 4 hours labor. Regardless the car is barely driven now, just to drive a few blocks to the grocery store etc when the wife is out, but its essentially a lawn ornament for another year until I pay down alittle more of the principal and can get rid of this disaster.
Mileage on the car, 22,600KM in 2.5 years.
My opinion after this experience. First, get a dealership that is part of the better business bureau. Second, read reviews like mad, just because it's a "newer" model and you think they've learned from the past 7 years of issue from previous models and think that they'd get this one right, some do, some don't. Third, before your dealer drags the repairs outside your warranty period, and can't get it right after the second try, take it to another authorized dealer. Unfortunately my dealership dragged mine out, and it was mostly my fault for letting it go as long as it did bringing it to the same guys over and over.
Two things come to mind... If it's not the ignition module then it could be a bad ignition switch. Had that happen to me on an old Honda where after 15+ years of service it started to do that very thing... the engine would cut out while in motion. While in motion, the key would move a little and cause the ignition to cut in and out. Replacing the switch fixed it for me.
This happened to our Ford Focus and we returned it under lemon law. This car was a danger to drive.
Sounds like your typical FORD
(Found On Road Dead)
Next time, buy a pre '90 Toyota.
"Sounds like your typical FORD.
(Found On Road Dead)
Next time, buy a pre '90 Toyota."
With Toyota battling hundreds of rollover lawsuits, poor reliability and millions of major safety recalls I don't really think I'd look at one. Besides, there are virtually NO pre-90's Toyotas still running anyway.
"With Toyota battling hundreds of rollover lawsuits, poor reliability and millions of major safety recalls I don't really think I'd look at one. Besides, there are virtually NO pre-90's Toyotas still running anyway."
What???
Ford can't make electrical systems, they can't make charging systems, they can't make steering columns that don't catch on fire, they can't make ignition cylinders that don't get jammed, they can't build an axle that doesn't kill tire tread, and you're saying that you would not look at a Toyota?? Buddy, give your head a shake. You'd be better off driving a Yugo than a Ford.
"Besides, there are virtually NO pre-90's Toyotas still running anyway."
Look around, I see pre-90's Toyota's EVERYWHERE.
There may be a few pre-90's Toyotas in Japan, but I was referring to the U.S., not Japan. There are virtually none here (at least not outside of junk yards). Ford surpassed Toyota in overall reliability years ago, and the Fusion has outranked the poorly built Camry in reliability by two full levels for the past three years. The 2007 Camry was so bad that Consumer Reports revoked it's "recommended" status. I think that says a lot more about import reliability than one very rare import that miraculously survived (probably by being pampered) for 200,000 miles or so. The Focus is currently rated as a "Best Buy", and is a far better value than either the over-rated Civic or the unreliable Corolla.