I have a '98 Sharan. I HAVE had the flooded passenger footwell, TWICE now! The first time it was the good old rear washer pipe join under the FNS Door sill. It was the middle of winter '04/'05 and I couldn't be doing with sorting it out in the freezing cold. Also it stank! It cost me £250 to get it sorted out, MOST of which was for a new (complete) sound mat, which holds about 5 gallons of water. However I now find, to my benefit it turns out, that they (VW Agent) didn't fit the whole mat, as requested, but chopped the wet bit off and cut the new one to suit.
I now have flood 2, NOT due to the washer pipe. Also the scuttle drains APPEAR to be working. The water does, though, seem to be coming in through/round the heater and oozing down from the tunnel sound mat. Lovely! Having driven around for a week with the front seat out and no sound mat, I sometimes get a flood when it rains, other times I do not.
The only GOOD point is that from '98 on they moved the ECU to under the dash, near the fuses I think.
I am beginning to think that a gallon of petrol and a match would do the trick!!!
With regard to Water ingress. I have 98 Sharan and have had to have front windscreen replaced as water was coming in around it and was such that it could not be sealed. This fixed the problem on the passenger side, but I now have a small leak on drivers side and garage or I cannot find the problem. Have tried all vents and resealed window. Any suggestions?
My 1997 Gal has the passenger foot well problem and has cost me two ECU's.
I cured the problem by removing the scuttle tray below the wiper motor (three screws hold it in place). After a bit of jiggery pokery, it eventually comes out. You cannot see the drain holes, but you can feel them. Make sure your wiper blades are in the vertical position and make sure you remove the keys!! You can now get your hand deep down the inner wings and should feel the holes. I used a piece of 3 core cable and poked at the area for a few minutes until I could feed the cable into the drain holes. Voila, a watering can test confirmed all is clear.
You can also get to the bottom of the drain holes by removing your wheels and wheel arch liners!
Worked for me, give it a go.
I have a Ford Galaxy 1999 (T) reg and I am having problems with the engine completely cutting out on me when driving at different speeds or idling. I have had the car plugged into a computer, and no faults are showing.
When I try to start the engine again, it will turn over, but will not fire. I have noticed the light in drivers door flashing quickly while turning the car over. I can leave the car for a little while, and away it will go again. I think I have a problem with the immobiliser and would like to know how this works.
I know where the coil is and also the relay, I have been told to change the ECU, but don't want to spend that kind of money yet.
Help if possible would be appreciated.
I have a 2.0GLX 95 (N Reg) purchased from a second hand car dealer.
From the first week, I had ECU problems, and the engine completely died when I was on the motorway. Scary when the power steering loses power too, and really hard to steer onto the hard shoulder...
Once this problem was fixed, the engine wouldn't start. After hours of research, I found that it's a relay switch under the drivers side, number 30 if I remember rightly, bang it a few times and boom it starts.
After 6 months, the passenger lock broke, and what a surprise, within the year the driver's side packed up too. Now my car is opened and locked by the boot - wonder how long this lock will last???
After a year and a bit, the secondary air induction pump packed up, costing a lovely £350.
Right after all the dosh I've spent on this car, surely nothing else could possibly go wrong??? Spoke to soon - the car now idles above 4000 revs when in neutral. I'm seriously thinking of calling it Herbie seen as it drives itself when in gear...
Any help with why this is happening would be very gratefully received. I've checked everything I can think of.
High idling speed when in neutral.
We have a Ford Galaxy N reg and had problems with the passenger window not working and problems withe the locking. Our main problem has been with the car not working or it works, but whilst driving cuts out, we have been told its the CRANK SENSOR.
Great site. Wished I had visited here before I had a senior moment and purchased this 96 VW sharan. A big mistake. Yes I have the water problem under the front passenger seat following a rain downpour. All windows went down whilst it was raining and alarm and central locking has died. Now trying to locate the famous drain holes. The circuit board under the seat is covered in green mould. Sounds familiar?
This is a disgraceful design flaw. Was going to give the car to my son because he has a family ….. I am too embarrassed. What next will go wrong with this load of junk? Matches and petrol seem the only solution.
Hi there I was just browsing the web looking for information about Ford Galaxy immobilisers when I came across this great site, my car has not been starting for a few days now it turns over, but will not start (no fuel is getting to the engine) the light on the drivers door seems to indicate a fault with the immobiliser, sometimes it is very erratic when driving, the revs will drop and the engine will nearly cut out. I took the advice from one of the postings and disconnected the battery to reset the control unit and it started first time, this seems to be a common fault is it just a poor control unit or is something else at fault. Thanks.
I've just bought a 1998 110 TDi Alhambra and guess what? Bizarre central locking, windows going up and down of their own accord and now the car doesn't start (flat battery) When I connect the battery booster the alarm goes off, but there still isn't enough to turn the engine over.
I connected a meter to the battery booster and it drops to 5.5v when the ignition key is turned.
This excellent site has given me an insight into the foibles of this family of cars. Next step ECU out and check over, then find those notorious drain holes.
I have a 1997 Galaxy TDi. I have had the same intermittent central locking and electric window problems. The problem is with damp getting into the compartment under the front passenger seat and causing mould to grow on the central locking module. The damp was caused by blocked drain holes that I had cleared at a local garage for £23.50. For £58.00 Ford diagnosed that the module and two switches were faulty and they wanted a further £324.00 to do the repair. The Module costs £150.00 from ford and the switches were £25.00. I will get my local garage to do the repair.
Geoff from Barnsley.