1999 Ford Mustang GT from North America - Comments

14th Nov 2003, 08:50

I want a 1999 or 1998 Mustang GT. It's and automatic. I need comments on if I should get it or not. It seems like a lot of y'all have problems with the stick shift. Please help me.

29th Mar 2004, 13:58

You don't want a 96-98 GT. They only have 225 horsepower. They are slower than molasses in January. I owned a 96 automatic and I used to get roasted. I traded it in and got a more powerful 260 horse 2000 which has the same engine as a '99. I was very satisfied with the performance.

10th Jul 2004, 07:55

I have a 99 GT with 27,000 original miles. I recently noticed a howling sound in the rear-end. I took it to the dealer and was told the bearings and gears were worn. $1500 later it works fine. I can only assume that it was assembled incorrectly at the factory. Anyone else had this problem?

23rd Sep 2004, 08:31

I have a 1999 GT 5speed, but it has 130,000 miles on it how long should these things last?

7th Oct 2005, 01:15

To all whom experienced the stalling problem. I have some simple solutions to help solve the problem before you spend big bucks on the dealership fixing a 10 minute job try these tips.

#1 Check your air filter and see if it needs to be replaced or cleaned if it is a K&N filter.

#2 Next check your Mass Air Flow Meter to see if it has any carbon build up. If so, then use some carburetor cleaner and clean it out. Make sure you don't spray the electrical plug on this meter or you will ruin the sensor. After letting the carburetor cleaner sit on the part for about ten minute go ahead and rinse it off with slow running warm to hot water. Make sure that when you rinse this part you don't get the electrical plug wet because you will ruin the sensor. Then take a rag and wipe it down until it is completely dry. Now your ready to reinstall this part back on the car.

#3 Then check your Idle Air Control Valve (IAC Valve) to see if there is any carbon build up. If so, just buy a new one from your trusted auto parts store. There is a small mesh screen on the inside that you won't be able to reach and it is more than likely clogged with carbon. Plus half of this part is an electric motor running the cylinder part on the inside and you might risk burning the motor out if it gets wet. The IAC Valve can range any where from $42.00-$55.00. Install the new part.

#4 Finally check your Throttle Body for carbon build up. If you have carbon build up in your IAC Valve then you will have it in your Throttle Body. Take some carburetor cleaner and spay the inside of the Throttle Body and make sure you spray the flap real good. In case your wondering the flap is what opens and shuts in the throttle body that kind of looks like a lid. After letting the carburetor cleaner sit on the part for about ten minute go ahead and rinse it off with slow running warm to hot water. Then take a rag and wipe it down until it is completely dry. Now your ready to reinstall this part back on the car.

If you follow these steps then you will resolve all your stalling problems. Don't make the mistake of just cleaning or replacing just one of this parts without checking all the other parts as well or you will still have problems. Do yourself a favor and follow my steps 1-4 in the order I have explained above and you will be a much happier camper. Let me know your results when completed. Thanks.

19th Oct 2005, 16:56

Check the IAC, that's the most common cause. You can clean it with brake cleaner.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/ for more help.

4th Nov 2005, 13:05

I've driven my Chrome Yellow '99 GT since March '99 (93,000 miles worth)...love the car. Runs like a scalded ape and gets 25 mpg on the road commuting. Never had the stalling problem... Henry and the dealer fixed a set of rear-end carrier bearings that went out right after warranty, and I've replaced a front end drag link... other than that, a K&N air filter regularly serviced, 6,000 mile oil and filter changes with Mobil 1 10W30 and DRIVE IT! Still sounds good, turns heads and gets compliments.

Dan

Stillwater, OK.

6th Nov 2005, 18:08

Thanks to the guy that wrote the article on Oct. 7th, 2005. You just saved me a couple of hundred bucks.

I followed your instruction and found that the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC Valve) had excessive amount of carbon build up and needed replacement. I spent more time purchasing the part than what was spent changing it out. To follow-up I also clean my K & N Filter, mass air flow meter and the throttle body assemble.

Thanks again.

14th Nov 2005, 15:58

I had my 99 gt for about 9 months now and I did stall out twice, but this was because this was because of a faulty clamp on my vacuum line, I was wondering if running a 100 shot of nos will destroy a 4.6 engine I've heard stories and wasn't sure if I should get one.

18th Nov 2005, 09:34

I have a 98 GT 5 speed with 85,000 miles on it. Bought it new. Never had any problems. I change the oil and rotate the tires every 3000 miles. My mechanic friend told me it should last up to 200,000 miles! What (17 inch) tires are best to prevent problems in rain with traction? My first set of Kumhos were not to good and when I bought my next set and asked for better traction, I got tires that were worse.

18th Mar 2006, 22:38

Why don't all the people crying about mustangs being junk trade them for camaros. Then they can see what true garbage is.

26th Jun 2006, 22:06

I have a 99gt I recently put a cold air intake on it and it ran great. but once I got it on the highway the check engine light would come on. I put back on the stock box and the engine light still comes on, but it takes a little longer. what should I do.

19th Sep 2007, 04:54

I own a 99 GT (REAL limited edition), which has a bunch of bolt on's and has dynoed at 251 RWHP. The 260 HP Ford claims is NOT RWHP. So actually the stock 99 GT are 230ish RWHP.

I love my GT. I got the black exterior and the black and silver leather. I get lots of compliments all the time. Here is a pic: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y178/jcint/108-0833_IMG.jpg

9th Oct 2007, 11:00

I have a 98 GT. When I test drove it, I didn't have a problem with reverse or 5th gear. Now it grinds when I shift into 5th gear. I read somewhere else that shifting too fast can cause this to happen. Any truth in that? Also it grinds going into reverse. Doesn't happen all the time. I read where if you shift into 5th gear then to reverse, it doesn't grind. Any truth in that?

20th Oct 2008, 14:17

I have a 1999 GT Convertable Limited Edition in Performance Red with the 5 speed manual trans. Approximately 90,000 on the clock. The only problems... rear end bearings at 65,000 and a clutch at 75,000. The clutch discs weren't worn but the release bearing was raising cane. A hot looking and running car!